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Mike_LeClair's avatar
Mike_LeClair
Explorer
Jan 03, 2014

Q re: Chaining up axle to frame

Hey All!

Knowing that I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer I thought that I would float this up to the collective knowledge of the forum for some insightful input and thoughts.

I would like to chain the axle(s) of our dual axle 5R, one side at a time of course, to the I Beam frame, in order to aide in getting the wheels off the ground for a bearing inspection and service as well as a general brake and wheel check. We have the E Z Lube axles on our Cougar and I simply do not have enough faith and confidence in this system. We have read and heard about too many horror stories of blown seals and contaminated brake linings. I am going to jack the RV up by the frame, rather than the axles, and will have the RV hitched to our truck with the front jacks and rear stabilizers well off of the ground.

I was just under the RV and trying to see if there were available and convenient places to attach the chains to the frame rails. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything that would work. SO, it seems to me that I would have to drill holes through the lip of the I Beam in order to use bolts and lock nuts to attach the chain to the frame. Is there any issue or foreseen problem with drilling, say, 1/2" holes, either two or four per side, through the frame rail?

Also, is there a foreseen problem with lifting both wheels and thereby axles at the same time if I use a bottle jack on the frame at the front and back of the tandem wheels? Or, would it be better if I just stick to lifting one axle at a time and doing one wheel at a time?

Please forgive me if any of my terminologies are not technically correct, Lord knows I took enough abuse over the "Hot Water Heater" episode! ;)

Cheers!

Mike
  • Thanks so much for the information everyone! Clearly, the method of bottle jack under the spring perch is the preferred method and I will go with that methodology. The reason that I was considering the "frame and chained axle" route was that Keystone advocates lifting the RV by the frame only. By chaining up the axle I was hoping to get the target wheel off of the ground faster than having to lift to the end of the axle sag. I know that there are differing schools of thought on this matter. My focus is on safety as I have no desire to endanger the well being of myself, my helper or the RV.

    Cheers!

    Mike
  • I'm with the bottle jack crowd. If your RV is like most, the leaf springs run under the axles. Just put the jack under the axle on that flat plate that is all the leaf springs are sitting and jack it up. Then slide a jack stand under and as near to the bottle jack as possible. Now lower the axle until it firmly contacts the jack stand.

    Personally at this point I would leave the bottle jack holding the majority of the weight and the jack stand is there in case the bottle jack fails.

    Do one wheel at a time an don't forget to loosen the lugs while the tire is still on the ground.
  • I wouldn't drill no holes in my trailer frame.
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    Often a 6" ramp will not get the tire off the ground so, put the tire you want to take off on a 6" high ramp. Put a block in the equalize arm for the other tire now that it is all the way open. Put that tire on your ramp and now you should be high enough to get the tire off.
  • All I use are "run up blocks" which are nothing more complicated than three pieces of 2"x10" plank screwed together to make a ramp. Pull one wheel on one side (or both if you have two blocks) and the other wheel comes up off the ground and away you go with your service. Works great with rubber torsion springs but leaf springs droop more so may need a little extra height.

    Chaining up axles works, but it's a heck of a lot more complicated and dangerous. It would be a last resort for me, and I for the life of me can't figure out why you would do it. Just putting a bottle jack under the axle, or the frame, and picking up the tire is what I do if I am going to use a jack. The axle doesn't droop that much.

    Brian
  • I had to replace my leaf springs so I had to get the whole side off the ground. I kept the trailer hooked to the truck with front landing gear on the ground. I the jacked up the trailer with a 20 ton jack by the frame about a foot behind the rear axle. Once I got it far enough off the ground I used 3 ton jack stands under the frame just ahead and just behine the axles and lower the trailer on to the stands and also kept the 20 ton jack still holding weight on the frame to stabilize it and then I lowered the rear stabilizer jacks to the ground to help support and stabilize the rear. I had no problems with stability doing it this way. My fiver weighs very close to the 14000 gvw when I did it.
  • I agree with your position on the EZ lubes but I would not use the frame that way. As Charles suggested, just use the perch's and you'll be fine.
  • Why don't you just use the spring perches and jack the trailer up? Make sure the wheels are properly chocked when the TT is hooked to the TV so as not to roll. Should work fine and no-brainer. Sometimes one has a tendency to "over think" the solution to what is actually not a problem.

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