Recommendations to replace BlueSky 2000 MPPT

Why perpetuate the problem? Get the controller close to the batteries. Get creative or live with a bad configuration.

I've investigated almost every option. There is NO room in the battery compartment and little enough in the bay next to it which is located UNDER a slide. Beside which, the BlueSky is a bulkhead (set into a hollow wall) and would need make mounting brackets but even then it would not be easy to get at in order to see what it was doing or to make any adjustments. (The electrical bay is under the slide.)

Anything with a remote battery voltage sense would take care of the problem with little if any loss of charging efficiency over one placed next to the batteries.

Also, I have been tempted for several years to add more solar panels and the BlueSkye is maxed out with the 420 Watts that I have already.

Hi,

I would consider the Tristar MPPT 60 amp unit.

+1 for Morningstar Tristar MPPT. However I think 30 amp is plenty unless you plan to add more panels.

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
Anything with a remote battery voltage sense would take care of the problem with little if any loss of charging efficiency over one placed next to the batteries.

What makes you think that? How does a remote battery voltage sensor make up for voltage drop due to inadequate wire size on the controller to batteries run?

The Blue Sky SB3024iL with a IPN-ProRemote will allow placing the controller closer to the batteries and have remote control and monitoring.

For a PWM solution perhaps the Bogart SC2030 and TM2030.

Many auto charging systems use remote sensing for a good reason. Any electronics should never be mounted in the same compartment as flooded batteries unless the compartment is a bay on a large RV. CR spend winters in Mexico. Warm and humid. Corrosion is more pervasive. I had to mount my controller16' from the batteries. Unless I wanted it to take a bath everytime I drive in the rain. Smear dielectric grease all over the thermistor mounted on the battery. I am going to follow this thread with interest as I too shpuld be seeking a good MPPT controller.

Jay;

EsoxLucius wrote:

Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
Anything with a remote battery voltage sense would take care of the problem with little if any loss of charging efficiency over one placed next to the batteries.

What makes you think that? How does a remote battery voltage sensor make up for voltage drop due to inadequate wire size on the controller to batteries run?

The Blue Sky SB3024iL with a IPN-ProRemote will allow placing the controller closer to the batteries and have remote control and monitoring.

For a PWM solution perhaps the Bogart SC2030 and TM2030.

It will allow the controller to keep the battery voltage up to to where it should be. For instance, now, if charging at near 20 Amps, the controller will think the batteries have reached 14.8 when they are in fact only at about 13.8. Therefore they never let the batteries get to full charge.

I have described my set up at length in previous posts but in a nutshell here it is again: There is about 6feet of #10 connecting to about 20 feet of #6 between the output of the controller and the batteries. The #6 is the original connection between the batteries and converter which is no longer there. This in on the passenger side of the rig under the stove. The batteries are on the driver side in a compartment under the bedroom slide. The electrical compartment is beside that, also under the slide. Replacing that #6 will be a real chore, and I would have to pay someone to do that. There is very little room in that electrical compartment.

Pics here on our blog.

No voltage sense wire is going to make up for not getting sufficient voltage at rated amperage to the batteries due to inadequate wire between the controller and the batteries.

20 feet of AWG 6 between the controller and the batteries with 400 watts of solar is a failed system, period.

EsoxLucius wrote:
No voltage sense wire is going to make up for not getting sufficient voltage at rated amperage to the batteries due to inadequate wire between the controller and the batteries.

20 feet of AWG 6 between the controller and the batteries with 400 watts of solar is a failed system, period.

With my calculator, assuming user's voltage and amperage levels, the 20' of 6awg will drop voltage .47 V. I don't know that I would call that "failed", more like "somewhat inefficient".

Bottom line is that the OP has wire he has to live with, presently. It may be that a controller with good set point variability gets him healthy batteries.

While some power is lost in the controller to battery connection, the voltage sense will most certainly improve battery charging.

Although if pulling wire is so difficult how will the voltage sense wire get connected?