My wife and I have had some problems starting the Chinook Concourse we just bought.First, I turn the key and it goes clickclickclick but does not turn over. I wondered if I left the headlights or something else on.Second, I use the boost system---press the switch and turn the key to let the coach batteries jump start it. The first two times I did this, it worked.Third---and this was just on Friday---when the built-in boost system didn't work, I took my JNC and connected to the battery terminals. Attempt A: no joy. Reseating the clips, it turned over. It looks like there's a little (not a lot) bit of corrosion on the terminals. Hmm.In each case, when I drive it a bit then stop, restart, it's fine. Right after jump starting it with the JNC, the volt meter was a little above center---and it read there for the rest of the trip.We've never owned a motor home before and we're not sure what's standard and isn't. We're also not sure what the last owner did that might have modified it etc. For instance, the first time we drained the battery I think it was because of the in dash Sirius stereo. I didn't realize: it was wired "hot." You can listen to it with the ignition switched off completely---so if you forget to turn it off, you can come back later and have a dead battery. The one we discovered recently: the power windows are also wired hot. Wow.We also have a Tripp Lite charger/inverter. As we were leaving the Chinook today my wife said, "Hey, why are those lights on?" It said it was inverting---but we weren't plugged in to shore power and we didn't have the generator running. I switched it to charge only. As she was saying that would seem only to affect the coach batteries and not starting the car, but I'll throw it in.As mentioned above we didn't jump it with the built-in boost system. We *tried* but it wouldn't work. I tried starting the generator---nothing. Once I got it jumped, ok, managed to get the generator running. And to reiterate, every time I get it started, the needle goes to middle of the scale, where it should be. My theory would be that the battery has power but that maybe the terminal connection is loose. Except if that's true, why doesn't it give us problems the entire trip? Nothing quite makes 100% sense...anybody care to weigh in?

Do you know for a fact that the chassis battery is good? That is, have you had it load tested? It may well need replacement, particularly after being discharged rather deeply a few times (and who knows how many more before you acquired the RV).The voltmeter when the engine is running tells you next to nothing about the battery status since the alternator is supplying power. All you can tell is that the alternator's voltage regulator is more or less working properly.The other thing to ascertain is what loads are on the chassis battery when the engine is off. It does sound like some things are wired in a non-intuitive way. The radio, in particular, may actually be powered from the house battery rather than the chassis battery, or perhaps has a switch to select between the two batteries; various RV makers do that in different ways. (This is true even when the radio is mounted in the dash.)In general, when it comes to details of the electrical systems, there are some things that are rather common, and some that are less so, and some that are downright wrong, but few details that are absolutely "standard."

DrewE wrote:Do you know for a fact that the chassis battery is good? That is, have you had it load tested? It may well need replacement, particularly after being discharged rather deeply a few times (and who knows how many more before you acquired the RV).The voltmeter when the engine is running tells you next to nothing about the battery status since the alternator is supplying power. All you can tell is that the alternator's voltage regulator is more or less working properly.The other thing to ascertain is what loads are on the chassis battery when the engine is off. It does sound like some things are wired in a non-intuitive way. The radio, in particular, may actually be powered from the house battery rather than the chassis battery, or perhaps has a switch to select between the two batteries; various RV makers do that in different ways. (This is true even when the radio is mounted in the dash.)In general, when it comes to details of the electrical systems, there are some things that are rather common, and some that are less so, and some that are downright wrong, but few details that are absolutely "standard."Thanks for the reply, Drew!No, I don't know that the battery is good, haven't had it tested. I looked to see if there were any date on it but I didn't find one. I am sure that the Sirius wasn't original---the owners left a receipt in with the manuals showing they had it installed a few years ago.Hmm, what if they did wire the radio or other things to the coach batts instead? Interesting.

Most of these motorhomes have an isolation relay between the chassis battery and the house batteries. There could be an issue with that relay.What I'd suggest to do is either call a skilled mobile tech or take the Chinook to an RV service shop and have them go through the different wiring issues, test the batteries, test the alternator, and test the isolation relay. Nothing in your coach needs to be wired "hot" except the radio memory. You have at least one misguided user's (previous owner) ideas about how to power devices.

DandD2015 wrote:My wife and I have had some problems starting the Chinook Concourse we just bought.First, I turn the key and it goes clickclickclick but does not turn over. I wondered if I left the headlights or something else on.Second, I use the boost system---press the switch and turn the key to let the coach batteries jump start it. The first two times I did this, it worked.Third---and this was just on Friday---when the built-in boost system didn't work, I took my JNC and connected to the battery terminals. Attempt A: no joy. Reseating the clips, it turned over. It looks like there's a little (not a lot) bit of corrosion on the terminals. Hmm.In each case, when I drive it a bit then stop, restart, it's fine. Right after jump starting it with the JNC, the volt meter was a little above center---and it read there for the rest of the trip.We've never owned a motor home before and we're not sure what's standard and isn't. We're also not sure what the last owner did that might have modified it etc. For instance, the first time we drained the battery I think it was because of the in dash Sirius stereo. I didn't realize: it was wired "hot." You can listen to it with the ignition switched off completely---so if you forget to turn it off, you can come back later and have a dead battery. The one we discovered recently: the power windows are also wired hot. Wow.We also have a Tripp Lite charger/inverter. As we were leaving the Chinook today my wife said, "Hey, why are those lights on?" It said it was inverting---but we weren't plugged in to shore power and we didn't have the generator running. I switched it to charge only. As she was saying that would seem only to affect the coach batteries and not starting the car, but I'll throw it in.As mentioned above we didn't jump it with the built-in boost system. We *tried* but it wouldn't work. I tried starting the generator---nothing. Once I got it jumped, ok, managed to get the generator running. And to reiterate, every time I get it started, the needle goes to middle of the scale, where it should be. My theory would be that the battery has power but that maybe the terminal connection is loose. Except if that's true, why doesn't it give us problems the entire trip? Nothing quite makes 100% sense...anybody care to weigh in?I have exactly the same issue with my (recently purchased) used Chateau Citation. My engine battery will go dead if the motorhome sits in the driveway for more than a week. I've taken the battery out to have it load tested and it checks out fine. I've taken it on a 24 day trip with no issues because it was driven every day. It also has (what I think) is a recently installed Sirius Radio and that is where I will concentrate my efforts to see if I can track down this problem. For now I've taken out the battery and stored it in my garage for the winter.. and I will monitor it to see if it still loses voltage while sitting in the garage like it was while in the driveway. I suspect it will hold its charge now that it's disconnected. I do have the Sirius Radio manual showing the correct wiring so next spring I will take out the radio to see if the wiring was done properly. Apparently there is a constant live 12V connection (which keeps the clock on time) and another connection which is supposed to be live only when the ignition switch is turned on. There is a third connection shown (I forget what that is supposed to do and I don't have the manual available here right now) but I will track that down as well to see if I can resolve this problem. At least I will now be able to tell if the battery is the problem since it's no longer in the motorhome!

I had a !995 Chinook on the Ford E-350 van chassis. It had a problem like yours. Turned out that the 'Isolation(Smart) relay that was supposed to determine if/when to parallel the engine & chassis batteries for charging while driving was bad. Oh....one more interesting thing to kno about that van chassis. There is also an ignition relay thats supposed to parellel the engine & chassis battery. The chassis battery, under the hood on the passenger side runs the TAIL & RUNNiNG LIGHTS!!! If this relay goes bad the chassis batt. can't charge off the alternator. Eventually it goes dead...No tail or running lights but still have brake lights. This relay is impossible to find. Its located inside the bottom main chassis frame where the front bumper bolts on. I relocated it to the area above/behind the radiator.

Starting the Chinook after letting it sit a week

DrewE
Explorer II
Nov 02, 2015
Do you know for a fact that the chassis battery is good? That is, have you had it load tested? It may well need replacement, particularly after being discharged rather deeply a few times (and who knows how many more before you acquired the RV).

The voltmeter when the engine is running tells you next to nothing about the battery status since the alternator is supplying power. All you can tell is that the alternator's voltage regulator is more or less working properly.

The other thing to ascertain is what loads are on the chassis battery when the engine is off. It does sound like some things are wired in a non-intuitive way. The radio, in particular, may actually be powered from the house battery rather than the chassis battery, or perhaps has a switch to select between the two batteries; various RV makers do that in different ways. (This is true even when the radio is mounted in the dash.)

In general, when it comes to details of the electrical systems, there are some things that are rather common, and some that are less so, and some that are downright wrong, but few details that are absolutely "standard."
DandD2015
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
DrewE wrote:
Do you know for a fact that the chassis battery is good? That is, have you had it load tested? It may well need replacement, particularly after being discharged rather deeply a few times (and who knows how many more before you acquired the RV).

The voltmeter when the engine is running tells you next to nothing about the battery status since the alternator is supplying power. All you can tell is that the alternator's voltage regulator is more or less working properly.

The other thing to ascertain is what loads are on the chassis battery when the engine is off. It does sound like some things are wired in a non-intuitive way. The radio, in particular, may actually be powered from the house battery rather than the chassis battery, or perhaps has a switch to select between the two batteries; various RV makers do that in different ways. (This is true even when the radio is mounted in the dash.)

In general, when it comes to details of the electrical systems, there are some things that are rather common, and some that are less so, and some that are downright wrong, but few details that are absolutely "standard."

Thanks for the reply, Drew!

No, I don't know that the battery is good, haven't had it tested. I looked to see if there were any date on it but I didn't find one. I am sure that the Sirius wasn't original---the owners left a receipt in with the manuals showing they had it installed a few years ago.

Hmm, what if they did wire the radio or other things to the coach batts instead? Interesting.
westend
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
Most of these motorhomes have an isolation relay between the chassis battery and the house batteries. There could be an issue with that relay.

What I'd suggest to do is either call a skilled mobile tech or take the Chinook to an RV service shop and have them go through the different wiring issues, test the batteries, test the alternator, and test the isolation relay. Nothing in your coach needs to be wired "hot" except the radio memory. You have at least one misguided user's (previous owner) ideas about how to power devices.
You_can_t_take_
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
DandD2015 wrote:
My wife and I have had some problems starting the Chinook Concourse we just bought.

First, I turn the key and it goes clickclickclick but does not turn over. I wondered if I left the headlights or something else on.

Second, I use the boost system---press the switch and turn the key to let the coach batteries jump start it. The first two times I did this, it worked.

Third---and this was just on Friday---when the built-in boost system didn't work, I took my JNC and connected to the battery terminals. Attempt A: no joy. Reseating the clips, it turned over. It looks like there's a little (not a lot) bit of corrosion on the terminals. Hmm.

In each case, when I drive it a bit then stop, restart, it's fine. Right after jump starting it with the JNC, the volt meter was a little above center---and it read there for the rest of the trip.

We've never owned a motor home before and we're not sure what's standard and isn't. We're also not sure what the last owner did that might have modified it etc. For instance, the first time we drained the battery I think it was because of the in dash Sirius stereo. I didn't realize: it was wired "hot." You can listen to it with the ignition switched off completely---so if you forget to turn it off, you can come back later and have a dead battery. The one we discovered recently: the power windows are also wired hot. Wow.

We also have a Tripp Lite charger/inverter. As we were leaving the Chinook today my wife said, "Hey, why are those lights on?" It said it was inverting---but we weren't plugged in to shore power and we didn't have the generator running. I switched it to charge only. As she was saying that would seem only to affect the coach batteries and not starting the car, but I'll throw it in.

As mentioned above we didn't jump it with the built-in boost system. We *tried* but it wouldn't work. I tried starting the generator---nothing. Once I got it jumped, ok, managed to get the generator running.

And to reiterate, every time I get it started, the needle goes to middle of the scale, where it should be.

My theory would be that the battery has power but that maybe the terminal connection is loose. Except if that's true, why doesn't it give us problems the entire trip?

Nothing quite makes 100% sense...anybody care to weigh in?

I have exactly the same issue with my (recently purchased) used Chateau Citation. My engine battery will go dead if the motorhome sits in the driveway for more than a week. I've taken the battery out to have it load tested and it checks out fine. I've taken it on a 24 day trip with no issues because it was driven every day. It also has (what I think) is a recently installed Sirius Radio and that is where I will concentrate my efforts to see if I can track down this problem. For now I've taken out the battery and stored it in my garage for the winter.. and I will monitor it to see if it still loses voltage while sitting in the garage like it was while in the driveway. I suspect it will hold its charge now that it's disconnected. I do have the Sirius Radio manual showing the correct wiring so next spring I will take out the radio to see if the wiring was done properly. Apparently there is a constant live 12V connection (which keeps the clock on time) and another connection which is supposed to be live only when the ignition switch is turned on. There is a third connection shown (I forget what that is supposed to do and I don't have the manual available here right now) but I will track that down as well to see if I can resolve this problem. At least I will now be able to tell if the battery is the problem since it's no longer in the motorhome!
jolooote
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
I had a !995 Chinook on the Ford E-350 van chassis. It had a problem like yours. Turned out that the 'Isolation(Smart) relay that was supposed to determine if/when to parallel the engine & chassis batteries for charging while driving was bad. Oh....one more interesting thing to kno about that van chassis. There is also an ignition relay thats supposed to parellel the engine & chassis battery. The chassis battery, under the hood on the passenger side runs the TAIL & RUNNiNG LIGHTS!!! If this relay goes bad the chassis batt. can't charge off the alternator. Eventually it goes dead...No tail or running lights but still have brake lights. This relay is impossible to find. Its located inside the bottom main chassis frame where the front bumper bolts on. I relocated it to the area above/behind the radiator.
MrWizard
Moderator
Nov 02, 2015
IT is VERY COMMON for the radio in an RV to be wired hot
this is SO you do not have to turn on the key to have music while parked
it is usually wire to the house batteries not the engine/chassis battery
generator can be wired to either house or chassis batteries my personal preference is generator connected to engine/chassis battery,
so you can still start the genny with out the aux jump start ,IF you ran down the house batteries while camping

while camping on shore power or generator power, a single jumper cable from house positive to chassis-engine positive will maintain and charge the engine battery ( or install a 'Trik-L-start' )
if using generator power for charging remember to remove the jumper when you shut down the genny

sounds like all the batteries are weak and no longer have much capacity left
and bleed down from internal shorts when sitting, and are ready for replacement
DandD2015
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
Thanks for all the replies! I should also note: the on board monitor shows the coach battery levels to be good (3/3). When I hook up to shore power, it shows them to be charging.

We do have two switches that I haven't figured out. One is on the driver's side, above the control for the mirror adjustment. It's an on/off rocker switch. I thought maybe it controlled lighting, but flip it on and off and I still don't know what it's controlling.

The second is at the rear above the sink area, next to a 12V. It doesn't control that switch and again, we can't figure out what it's controlling but the switch itself lights when you turn it to on.

ETA: Oops, may have found one answer. This says heated mirror for the one above controls. http://chinookconcourse.tumblr.com/page/4
naturist
Nomad
Nov 02, 2015
mystery switches are always scary. You never know when one might be for the ejection seat, or the missile launcher, eh?

I've a Jeep that has an intermittent parasitic draw that kills the battery after about two days. I've gone nuts trying to track it down, without success. An ammeter shows it to be about 7 amps, and it will come on, go off after a few seconds, come back on a few seconds to a few minutes later, stay on for a minute or two, go off, on an entirely random pattern, making it all but impossible to track down. So I gave up, and put a battery cut off switch under the hood. As long as I remove the battery from the circuit when I park it, the Jeep starts instantly every time.

You might consider doing the same at least until you figure out what is going on here.
tarnold
Explorer
Nov 02, 2015
Go to the ChinookRVOwners web site and post your problem. Lots of specific help there.
DrewE
Explorer II
Nov 02, 2015
The heated mirror switch is pretty common. Leaving it on will run down your chassis battery before too long (if the engine is not running), assuming it's wired hot as is not uncommonly done.

The switch above the sink may be for the water pump or the water heater. It also might be for a bunch of other things.