Suburban Anode Replacement - Anti Seize?

[jodeb720]

I'm replacing my Anode, and I had to work pretty hard to remove the anode (alternating between tightening and loosening as well as penetrating oil).

I know if I wrap the threads in teflon tape, there's a good chance, it'll isolate the rod and that will defeat the reason to have the Anode in the first place.

Can I use Anti Seize on the threads to insure the next time I take it out it'll be easier to remove and still maintain the connection between the anode and the body of the water heater?

Thanks in advance and Merry Xmas to all!!!

Josh

[wgriswold]

The dissolved material in hard water precipitates when it is heated and the water escapes as steam thereby increasing the concentration of the dissolved material. I can remember my parents keeping a tea kettle on all day to make instant coffee and after some time the precipitated solids rattled around inside.

I don't think that is the case with our water heaters since no steam escapes. The solid material is probably from the anode material that is sacrificed to protect the heater.

[enblethen]

It could be from hard water or as stated from the anode.
When was last time the tank was flushed? It is best to flush anode equipped tanks as a regular maintenance item. Even Atwood aluminum tanks need to be flushed. I try to do it during winterizing.

[fj12ryder]

What does this "stuff" look like? You called it calcium build-up, but that isn't what it is? It could be calcium carbonate, or maybe a precipitate from the aluminum anode rod.

[jodeb720]

Just a quick follow up.

I did end up with the rectorseal - good call on that.

That I wasn't prepared for was the calcium build up inside the tank.

I high pressure water spout pointed inside, and about thirty minutes of running water cleared out quite a bit of the calcium build up.

Just to be clear - what is that stuff, and what's the best way to remove it?

Josh

[fj12ryder]

You don't want to tap threads in too far. You'll lessen the sealing area if you go too far since the pipe is tapered.

[joebedford]

FWIW, I finally pulled the rusted anode rod that was hanging on by only a thread. I bought a pipe end 3/4" NPT at Tractor Supply and gradually worked it in and out of the heater female thread. Cleaned all the rust off the anode and was able to get the rod in 3 turns. It still leaked about 1 drip every 10 seconds. I was tired of fooling with it so I wrapped it with two layers of Teflon tape. Now it doesn't leak at all. I'll keep an eye on it but if I don't see any leaks I'll stick with the tape for a seal.

[mobeewan]

Whether or not it is food grade, anti-seize is just that and not pipe thread sealant. Both are meant to be used for entirely different jobs.

[Cummins12V98]

dougrainer wrote:
Rector seal 5 BEST stuff to use. I use it on threaded plumbing AND 3000 psi hydraulic jack threads. NEVER had a leak in 25 years and does not seize the threads. Doug

https://www.sears.com/rectorseal-no-5-pipe-thread-sealant/p-009VA92867312P?sid=IDx20141028xBingPLA&s...

YUP!!!

[joebedford]

Thanks. I just looked up 3/4 NPT and apparently it's always 14.

[fj12ryder]

3/4-14.

[joebedford]

joebedford wrote:
Is the thread 3/4-14 or 3/4-16?

Anybody?

[rhagfo]

donn0128 wrote:
Antisieze is more than likely not good foe your health. Teflon tape is the preferred product.

Food Grade Anti-Seize

[dougrainer]

mobeewan wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Anodic Cathodic action works using water as the electrolyte medium or perhaps it is supposed to function somehow in a glass lined tank?

The glass lining can be less than perfect, and there is no glass protecting the steel at the various threaded fittings.

Since Atwood uses an aluminum tank that acts as an anode how much metal is lost? Do they ever become porous from that action?

I believe it is a seperate layer of anodic aluminum bonded to the inside of the tank. Don't know what happens once it is gone if ever, but the places that would be effected are at the fitting connection bosses where the metal gas control and bronze relief valve are screwed in. Also where the drain plug and the water in and out connections screw in if plastic adapters and nylon or plastic drain plug are not used.

Atwood inner tanks will and can be "corroded" and become porous over time. I have seen it just a few times in almost 40 years as a Tech. The FIRST time was 35 years ago and it corroded the Atwood tank in less than 6 months. The customer was in the Rio Grande Valley of Texas for the winter and his water supply was bad and caused pinholes all over the tank. That is why draining and flushing on both Suburban and Atwood on a regular basis is a good idea. Suburban's give you a pretty accurate idea of the corrosion when you see the Anode completely eaten up. Doug

[joebedford]

Is the thread 3/4-14 or 3/4-16?