Suburban Anode Replacement - Anti Seize?

[jodeb720]

I'm replacing my Anode, and I had to work pretty hard to remove the anode (alternating between tightening and loosening as well as penetrating oil).

I know if I wrap the threads in teflon tape, there's a good chance, it'll isolate the rod and that will defeat the reason to have the Anode in the first place.

Can I use Anti Seize on the threads to insure the next time I take it out it'll be easier to remove and still maintain the connection between the anode and the body of the water heater?

Thanks in advance and Merry Xmas to all!!!

Josh

[mobeewan]

Lynnmor wrote:

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Anodic Cathodic action works using water as the electrolyte medium or perhaps it is supposed to function somehow in a glass lined tank?

The glass lining can be less than perfect, and there is no glass protecting the steel at the various threaded fittings.

Since Atwood uses an aluminum tank that acts as an anode how much metal is lost? Do they ever become porous from that action?

I believe it is a seperate layer of anodic aluminum bonded to the inside of the tank. Don't know what happens once it is gone if ever, but the places that would be effected are at the fitting connection bosses where the metal gas control and bronze relief valve are screwed in. Also where the drain plug and the water in and out connections screw in if plastic adapters and nylon or plastic drain plug are not used.

[dougrainer]

jodeb720 wrote:
Good catch on the anti seize not being good for my health!
I will be chasing the threads clean anyway - I don't want a problem in the future.

Doug, do they sell rector seal in the big box stores or is that only an online item? I'm leaving on Wednesday and would like to install this today (once the replacement arrives - thanks Amazon!)

Thanks to all for the quick replies.

josh

You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot. As I stated, I have used it on thousands of water threads and Hydraulic threads and NEVER a leak or seizing or galling. Teflon tape is a joke compared to Rectorseal. Doug

[RLS7201]

dougrainer wrote:
Rector seal 5 BEST stuff to use. I use it on threaded plumbing AND 3000 psi hydraulic jack threads. NEVER had a leak in 25 years and does not seize the threads. Doug

https://www.sears.com/rectorseal-no-5-pipe-thread-sealant/p-009VA92867312P?sid=IDx20141028xBingPLA&s...

Doug has it right. Pipe dope out performs teflon tape.
My preferences are teflon impregnated pipe dope. As it is the only lubricant that will allow stainless NPT fittings to thread correctly with out galling.
Pipe dope and teflon tape are not sealers but are friction reducers to allow NPT threads to be tightened correctly.
Pipe dope and Teflon tape are to be used only on NPT fittings.

Richard

[wolfe10]

Dave H M wrote:
Well here is my take. I ordered an elcheapo tap off ebay to chase those threads if and when necessary. I leave the rod out when the trailer goes into long storage with a smidge of plumbers grease on the threads that I apply with my pinkie.

And I do use teflon tape on the install.

Perfect.

And, if in an area with mud dubbers or other insects, lightly push a piece of nylon screen in the threaded hole.

[Dave_H_M]

Well here is my take. I ordered an elcheapo tap off ebay to chase those threads if and when necessary. I leave the rod out when the trailer goes into long storage with a smidge of plumbers grease on the threads that I apply with my pinkie.

And I do use teflon tape on the install.

[joebedford]

Don't make the mistake I made on mine - when I drained the tank at the end of the season in the spring, I left the rod out. Now the threads on the rod and anode are rusted. I barely managed to get a single thread to grab. When Christmas is over, I'm going to pull it apart and clean all the threads then reseal with teflon tape. I hope it lasts that long.

[ljr]

ScottG wrote:
I would (and do) use teflon tape. Never leaked and easy to remove and reseal next time.

X2. Just changed mine a couple days ago. The old rod was partially eaten away so it was doing it’s job.

[BB_TX]

midnightsadie wrote:
and it don,t need to be gorilla tight. just good and snug.

X2. With Teflon tape and just lightly tighten and it will not leak. The threads will cut right thru the tape. And it will come out easy next year.

[DutchmenSport]

I don't use teflon tape on mine. Never have on any of my campers. I routinely drain my water heater several times a years, returning from each trip. So the drain plug-anode rod gets removed often. Never has a chance to seize up. And it never leaks. In the winter when the tank is empty, I insert the plug-rod and just finger tight it, nothing more. This keeps the threads from rusting out. In 25 years of RV ownership, I've never had an anode rod leak, at best, an occasional drip, and never had one so tight a simple gentle tug would open it. They do NOT have to be THAT tight! Finger tight and then a slight extra turn with a socket. That's all you need.

I was really dismayed at how stinkin tight the plug-rod was on my brand new 5er in October, the first time I removed the rod to inspect it (brand new). It was so dang tight I thought I'd break the socket wrench or twist off the rod in the threaded hole. It finally broke free, and I thought to myself, why did they make it so horrible tight. I finger tightened it, gave a little extra tightening with my socket and done.

2 months later when I drained for winter, it came off easy-peasy. And never leaked.

[fj12ryder]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Anodic Cathodic action works using water as the electrolyte medium or perhaps it is supposed to function somehow in a glass lined tank?

Just an FYI, from the Suburban website:

"OPERATING THE WATER HEATER WITHOUT THE ANODE, VOIDS SUBURBAN’S LIMITED WARRANTY"

[Lynnmor]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Anodic Cathodic action works using water as the electrolyte medium or perhaps it is supposed to function somehow in a glass lined tank?

The glass lining can be less than perfect, and there is no glass protecting the steel at the various threaded fittings.

Since Atwood uses an aluminum tank that acts as an anode how much metal is lost? Do they ever become porous from that action?

[Chris_Bryant]

Another vote for Harvey’s Rectorseal #5.

[fj12ryder]

donn0128 wrote:
Antisieze is more than likely not good foe your health. Teflon tape is the preferred product.

You're probably right about the anti-seize not being good to eat, but I never ingest water from the water heater. That's not a good idea anytime, even at home, because of the build-up of mineral deposits.

[wgriswold]

Suburban water heaters have an anode but the other popular water heater (Atwood) does not.

Here is a quote from TruckCamper Magazine:

"An anode rod is a solid metal cylinder that gets screwed into a water heater’s drain plug to prevent the steel water heater tank from rusting inside. They are made from aluminum, magnesium, or zinc, all metals that will “sacrifice” themselves through electrolysis and save the exposed steel water heater tank from a similar fate.

If you have a Suburban water heater, the tank is porcelain-lined steel and requires an anode rod to prevent corrosion of the steel tank. If you have an Atwood water heater, your water heater tank is aluminum and does not require one."

There are aftermarket anodes available for Atwood heaters.

[SoundGuy]

jodeb720 wrote:
I know if I wrap the threads in teflon tape, there's a good chance, it'll isolate the rod and that will defeat the reason to have the Anode in the first place.

Curious - how do you know this? :@ I've always used a few turns of tape and have never had any issues. 🙂