Using the jack without the battery

mich800 wrote:

DrewE wrote:
It depends on the details of how its wired. If it connects directly to the battery (perhaps sharing the connection for the breakaway brake system), then it makes perfect sense. I suspect it is normal for your trailer.

Actually, that seems like a good setup to me, at least in general concept, as it helps to prevent someone from pulling the trailer without a battery for the breakaway brakes.

The breakaway does not work like that. It requires battery power to activate the brakes. And the jacks have a manual over ride. So the lack of battery is probably not a good theft deterrent.

I wasn't meaning as a theft deterrent, but as a bad choice deterrent, though that probably wasn't the clearest from what I wrote. That is, in case someone wishes to move their trailer from here to there but doesn't care to be bothered to install the battery (or replace a dead one), and so pulls it without a working breakaway brake system. Having the electric jack operate in the same way makes that less of a desirable option and so might increase safety.

agesilaus wrote:
Mine is wired directly to the battery. But I believe you can crank it by hand. No fun I suspect.

Same here. Won't work without the battery

DrewE wrote:
It depends on the details of how its wired. If it connects directly to the battery (perhaps sharing the connection for the breakaway brake system), then it makes perfect sense. I suspect it is normal for your trailer.

Actually, that seems like a good setup to me, at least in general concept, as it helps to prevent someone from pulling the trailer without a battery for the breakaway brakes.

The breakaway does not work like that. It requires battery power to activate the brakes. And the jacks have a manual over ride. So the lack of battery is probably not a good theft deterrent.

BFL13 wrote:
With the battery not there, collect all the wire terminals that go on its positive post and join them with vise grips or a nut and bolt.

Now the converter will have a path to the jacks. This assumes the jacks are on a different wire that goes to the positive post. Assumes the jacks and the converter each has a negative path to the frame.

I will try that in spring. The trailer is good where it is and I am not running power to it this winter.

My plastic battery box is screwed down, so as long as the +ve does not touch those screws or the -ve wires, I am good.

Jumper cables from the truck battery to the battery terminals on the trailer. Like the above post states, don't let them touch anything else metal. And I would unhook the A/C power before doing it.

BFL13 wrote:
With the battery not there, collect all the wire terminals that go on its positive post and join them with vise grips or a nut and bolt.

Now the converter will have a path to the jacks. This assumes the jacks are on a different wire that goes to the positive post. Assumes the jacks and the converter each has a negative path to the frame.

Do take care if you do this that the vice grips or nut and bolt don't short out to the chassis of the RV!

With the battery not there, collect all the wire terminals that go on its positive post and join them with vise grips or a nut and bolt.

Now the converter will have a path to the jacks. This assumes the jacks are on a different wire that goes to the positive post. Assumes the jacks and the converter each has a negative path to the frame.

swimmer_spe wrote:
I removed my battery to get my RV ready for winter. I go to use the jack and it won't work. It didn't matter whether it was hooked up to AC power or plugged into my truck, it would not work. Is that normal?

Yes. Mine is the same way. Same for the slides.

A socket and cordless drill will run it up and down.

It's provided with a manual crank.

It's wired directly to the battery.