2001 Suburban - Brake lines leaking

Any good repair shop should be able to help you. If your doing it yourself try Advance Auto Parts, they should have it.

I have a 2002 Yukon, I have had 4 blown brake lines, each time I was driving, with my kids, super scary, the last blow out, I would've been towing the trailer, thank God I got delayed that day!
Husband replaced each blown line the first two times, third time I took it to my mechanic had every line replaced with copper lines. Fourth time is when I found out they forgot to replace to two main line's under the hood.
This vehicle is the first one I have ever blown brake lines.

VAfan wrote:
Having trouble with brake lines blowing on my 2001 Suburban. Happened twice; both times while towing my travel trailer. The most recent was last Sunday with the trailer hooked up for a trip to Fort Clinch, beach site #5. Fortunately happened on the road I live on and I was able to turn around.

First vehicle I've had with this problem; apparently this is common in Northern States.

Anyone with experience and have a recommendation for a brake line kit? Having a hard time finding one for a Suburban.

This is ridiculously common on GM trucks of this vintage. My buddy had it happen to his '00 2500, it happened on my '04 2500HD, my neighbors dad had multiple patches on his '03 1500, and I've heard of numerous others. Most often the failure happens to one of the feed lines from the master cylinder into the ABS block. Usually you get a nice puddle of brake fluid right under the driver's door.

The true fix is to PATCH NOTHING!!! I installed a complete new kit on my truck and it was a huge improvement. When I removed the old lines we tested different sections putting bending pressure on them by hand. Several sections just crumpled with very little effort. It's either poor corrosion protection in the metal or the fluid is so hydroscopic that the high moisture content eats it away. Regardless, in my opinion there isn't enough good metal in these lines to properly patch the OEM tubing and guarantee it won't bust again.

Dorman Part# 919148 is a stainless steel complete replacement kit for your vehicle. This is a job you can do in your garage with a 4 ton jack, 4 jack stands, and a Saturday. You might want to be certain that is the exact part number, but according to the RockAuto.com brake line info for 2001 Suburban this is supposed to be the right product. For $55 plus shipping and a Saturday this is a great way to ensure the safety of your family.

Do yourself a favor.....install a new kit and avoid future failures.

KJ

Preventative maint. will prevent a dangerous situation. That means getting under the truck, either you or someone else! Yes it won't stop it from happening, but it will catch and prevent a dangerous brake loss!

Right above -- very common in GM trucks around that time frame -- me too.

W were in the middle of a camping trip in Eastern Mass, cruising down I-95 back from New Hampshire at 65 mph, got off the highway, into the campsite, and the brakes blew out right at that moment as we were backing in ... luck it didn't happen ten minutes before on the interstate.

We had new brake pads and rotors turned just before we left - had about 1500 miles on them. And the lines just blew... brake guys never said a word (a dealership too) and we then replaces all line with new.

A 2003 GMC 2500 4x4... I'd recommend NO patching, go with new lines everywhere - that's you and your family, not a minor issue you're protecting.

People keep begging for more and more road salt.... for safety.

That's a heckuva deal on that Dorman kit, when I replaced my lines in 2013 I got my stainless kit from Classic Tube. I also got a set of pre-bent stainless fuel lines and did the whole job front to back. Consider new brake hoses also. Whole package from Classic was about $800, including stainless braided brake hoses.

I can tell you that the main fuel tank has to come down to get to the brake lines that run rearward, and plenty of PB blaster and good set of line wrench crow's feet are a must for the ABS fittings. GM in their wisdom routed the ABS controller inside the frame rail under the driver's door...

The fuel lines were really special, both fuel tanks had to come down, and the torsion bars had to be removed and the rear crossmember moved to access where the 4 fuel lines route along the inside of the frame.

It took me a couple weeks working on/off nights and weekends, but I suppose if you're good you could get it done in a Saturday. Took me a whole Sunday last week to replace the rear two brake lines on my daughter's 98 Grand Prix.

BurbMan wrote:
That's a heckuva deal on that Dorman kit, .....I can tell you that the main fuel tank has to come down to get to the brake lines that run rearward,

Tank removal probably is necessary on the SUV platform. on my old 2500HD we had room to snake the rear tubing around the tank without removing it. Things are a lot tighter on the SUV so the tank would have the give some wiggle room to work.

KJ

Thanks everyone....typical great info from this forum. Trying to find a pre-bent copper-type line kit. May need to custom fit the copper-type (understand it's easy to work with) or go with a stainless kit. Thanks for the heads-up regarding the need to remove the gas tank.

Great comments - after the first blow out should have replaced all the lines. Like I said..never had this problem before.

Like one of the posts I just replaced all the brakes/rotors and inspected all the lines. It was driven ~50 miles when the line going over the rear differential blew.

Obviously a potentially dangerous problem. Having the trailer brakes helped me limp home both times; my emergency brake was useless and even though still had fluid in one side of the master cylinder the pedal went to the floor.

Staying away for a while...and just checking today...this is a safety
issue that must comment on

Pure copper tubing is illegal because it will work harden and fracture
Maybe your state, but not here in Calif the last time I build or restored
a vehiclle

Loss of brake fluid and PSI...AKA no brakes

If they are talking about an alloy with copper, then it might be okay

Check it the material or assembly has a DOT logo on them. If not, then
pass on them...

Good luck