The placard on the side is weathered and I can't read the psi. It's not in the manual either. Anyone know the correct psi for coleman 264RL? I read I shouldn't go by what is on the tire. Tires are currently at 40psi which seems low.

I would think that you have duel 3500 lb. axles on your trailer. That being said I would hope that you have at least 20575/15 C load range tires on the unit. I had that size tire when I purchased my Trail Blazer and Coachmen called for the tires to be inflated to 50 psi. My Trail Blazer had a GVWR of 7900 lbs. which is just a little more than your Coleman.I would try to find a tire mfg. pressure guide and go from there. It would alshelp to have the rig weighed in order to cut down on the confusion.

Most RV trailers come with OEM tires that are just barely adequate to cover the axle ratings when inflated to sidewall pressure indicated. Unless someone replaced the originals, with a way over rated tire, use the likely 65 psi max. You should have stated the tire size, load rating, and tire max pressure, for best answers.Even a C-load range tire would be 50 psi, so yes 40 psi is likely low.Jerry

Take whatever it weighs (gvw if you don’t know actual) divide it by 4, look up the pressure for that weight on a chart. Or go max pressure for the tires on it assuming they’re the proper ones for the trailer, if you’re not willing to look it up.

Go with the max cold tire pressure that's on the tire.

Then you should start from the basic data.That is GAWR's and GVWR.but better is to weigh fully loaded(also the persons), per axle, better even per axle-end.Then I can make a customised pressure/loadcapacity list for your tires, with build in reserves and per axle single or dual or per tire given,so you dont need to do precalculations before looking back in officiall lists.The recomended pressure you cant read now, is calculated for GAWR with no reserve. Need from tires next. 1. maximum load or LOADINDEX. 2. kind of tire to determine the maxloadpressure, but if AT xxx psi is given on sidewall, thats what I need. Loadrange is a system to give AT pressure. 3, speedcode, less important. 4. If ST

2019 coleman 264RL tire pressure? | Good Sam Community

jadatis
Explorer
May 09, 2023
Mayby I should have written in my post about the chaktest, that I also am not a fan of it, but if you use it, mind the things I wrote.

For the pressure buildup test, percentage allowed higher is more for low pressure like 35 psi, then for high pressure, like 110 psi, if calculated for the load and speed.

And the pressure buildup represents a certain temperature of the gascompound in tire.
I estimated that at 70 degr F outside, and driving with pressure calculated for referencespeed of tire, temperature in tire is allowed max 140 degrF, with no external factor. In 100 degr F outside, inside tire 160 degr F.
With that you can calculate the pressure-rising.

Made spreadsheet for it, in wich also for when enaugh water in tire.
Grit_dog
Navigator
May 09, 2023
^Or it’s basically useless. For both the reasons capri racer and you, yourself, mentioned.
Sure before the internet maybe it was a thing still. But who cares.
Do you chalk your tires? If ya do it’s just out of boredom and looking for something to do….

And it’s even more useless to someone like the OP who got his answer a month ago
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
May 09, 2023
were talking narrow tread tires on trailers and chalk line tests work great for those who know how to use it for this application.
Before the net finding a minimum pressure/load chart when needed was next to impossible or impossible.

Is the chalk line "THE" answer ?
Of course not but just another tool that tells us some times the folly of using a minimum pressure/load chart for tires on a trailer..... or rv website psi recommendations based on owning a couple of trailers wasn't the best idea.
CapriRacer
Explorer II
May 09, 2023
Here's the reason I don't like the chalk test.

It's quite possible to design a tire to have a footprint that isn't even across the tread face at the proper inflation pressure. Why do that? Rubber costs money and one way to reduce the amount of rubber is to use less in strategic parts of the tread.

Further, a well-designed tire will have a fairly even footprint for a wide range of loads and inflation pressures. How are you supposed to pick out the proper pressure when they all look good?

I prefer the Tire Pressure Build-up Test:

Before starting out on an extended tow (at least an hour!), measure and record both the inflation pressures and the ambient temperature.

It's also a good idea to inspect the tires by rubbing a GLOVED hand over the entire tread surface. You are looking for bulges. If you find any, replace the tire immediately!

After an hour or so into the trip, stop and measure the inflation pressure and note how much pressure has built up.

You don't want more than a 10% buildup - excluding ambient temperature effects:
Ambient temperature effect = 2% per every 10°F change in ambient temperature.

If you get more than 10% pressure buildup (excluding temperature effects), you need more load carrying capacity in your tires - either more inflation pressure or a bigger tire size.

Needless to say, you want to be aware of how heavily you are loading your trailer. More Load = More Pressure build up!
jadatis
Explorer
May 07, 2023
It was a reaction to other post, in wich chalktest was described.
So then if you use it, mind my remarks.
Huntindog
Explorer
May 07, 2023
jadatis wrote:
A radial tire stays within a large range with total width on the ground.
So if you found the pressure, beginning high, at wich chalk wears even, you have still a small surface-length on the ground.
Then when keep lowering, at a certain pressure, sides chalk begin wearing off.
At the lowest pressure, at wich chalk still wears even, the surface_length is larger, so larger surface on ground so best contact.

But then mayby at higher speed tire overheats.
So for safety of tires, you have to begin high, and stop lowering pressure, when chalk wears even.
THis works well for vehicles with oversized tires. Fot TTs, not so much
Grit_dog
Navigator
May 07, 2023
When’s the last time either of you (jabatis or mowermech) did a chalk test on a trailer tire, or any tire for that fact?

It’s not just that you’re posting confusing and potentially dangerous information, especially when it comes to trailer tires, but by design, the (largest contact patch theory) is largely inapplicable when it comes to trailer tires…and many other tire/rim/vehicle combinations.

And even if tire chalk test wasn’t fraught with other considerations that can/will cause many chalk tests to be invalid, it takes far more time and is far more subjective than just knowing a decent approximate weight and using an inflation chart.
You both are trying real hard to find a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist.
And worth mentioning a second time….wholly the wrong approach for trailer tires in particular.

@ huntindog, you’re correct, weights could vary side to side and likely may. If they vary front to back on a side by much at all, though, it’s likely a towing setup issue. Nose up or down on torsion axles. That said, virtually no one has or uses tire scales (except racers) and it’s equally as impractical an approach as chalking albeit for different reasons.
Huntindog
Explorer
May 07, 2023
Grit dog wrote:
Take whatever it weighs (gvw if you don’t know actual) divide it by 4, look up the pressure for that weight on a chart.
Or go max pressure for the tires on it assuming they’re the proper ones for the trailer, if you’re not willing to look it up.
Do not divide by 4. Most TTs indidual tire weights are not equal. I used to be on a race car pit crew, and we had scales to measure all 4 wheels at once to set up the car. One day I used them On the TT I had then. It was a real eye opener.

That said, just run them at the max for the tires. They will run cooler and be more resistant to sway. You may sacrifice a little tread wear. But that is not important as most TT tires age out long before the tread is gone. ST tires need all the help they can get to make it that long.
jadatis
Explorer
May 07, 2023
A radial tire stays within a large range with total width on the ground.
So if you found the pressure, beginning high, at wich chalk wears even, you have still a small surface-length on the ground.
Then when keep lowering, at a certain pressure, sides chalk begin wearing off.
At the lowest pressure, at wich chalk still wears even, the surface_length is larger, so larger surface on ground so best contact.

But then mayby at higher speed tire overheats.
So for safety of tires, you have to begin high, and stop lowering pressure, when chalk wears even.
mowermech
Explorer
May 06, 2023
Grit dog wrote:
mowermech wrote:
You could always use the redneck/jack-pine savage method of finding correct tire pressures:
1. Load the vehicle to the "normal" load usually carried.
2. On a hard, dry, flat surface make some chalk marks across the tire tread.
3. Drive the vehicle for a hundred yards or so.
4. Check the chalk marks for wear:
a. If the marks are gone, the tire is properly inflated for the present load.
b. If the marks are worn away in the center, the tire is over inflated.
c. If the marks are worn away on the edges, the tire is under inflated.

NOTE: This method works for all on-road vehicles, and should be done with the tires cold.

This is ok to tell if a tire is grossly over or under inflated but literally makes no sense and has no bearing on the OPs question, unless he’s somehow stranded in the middle of Death Valley with an air compressor and no pressure gauge or some other scenario equally as ridiculous.

I have always been taught (by civilian and military instructors) that for safety you want the maximum contact patch between the tires and the road. So, for maximum traction and braking, I want the chalk mark to wear away evenly across the tire tread. If it wears only in the middle or on the edges, that means the contact patch is quite small!
I do NOT want that!
When the brakes (not breaks) are strongly applied, that small contact patch will slide. Not a good idea, IMO.
Of course, YMMV...

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2019 coleman 264RL tire pressure?

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