2019 coleman 264RL tire pressure?

[ncladfw3]

The placard on the side is weathered and I can't read the psi. It's not in the manual either. Anyone know the correct psi for coleman 264RL? I read I shouldn't go by what is on the tire. Tires are currently at 40psi which seems low.

[jadatis]

Mayby I should have written in my post about the chaktest, that I also am not a fan of it, but if you use it, mind the things I wrote.

For the pressure buildup test, percentage allowed higher is more for low pressure like 35 psi, then for high pressure, like 110 psi, if calculated for the load and speed.

And the pressure buildup represents a certain temperature of the gascompound in tire.
I estimated that at 70 degr F outside, and driving with pressure calculated for referencespeed of tire, temperature in tire is allowed max 140 degrF, with no external factor. In 100 degr F outside, inside tire 160 degr F.
With that you can calculate the pressure-rising.

Made spreadsheet for it, in wich also for when enaugh water in tire.

[Grit_dog]

^Or it’s basically useless. For both the reasons capri racer and you, yourself, mentioned.
Sure before the internet maybe it was a thing still. But who cares.
Do you chalk your tires? If ya do it’s just out of boredom and looking for something to do….

And it’s even more useless to someone like the OP who got his answer a month ago

[JIMNLIN]

were talking narrow tread tires on trailers and chalk line tests work great for those who know how to use it for this application.
Before the net finding a minimum pressure/load chart when needed was next to impossible or impossible.

Is the chalk line "THE" answer ?
Of course not but just another tool that tells us some times the folly of using a minimum pressure/load chart for tires on a trailer..... or rv website psi recommendations based on owning a couple of trailers wasn't the best idea.

[CapriRacer]

Here's the reason I don't like the chalk test.

It's quite possible to design a tire to have a footprint that isn't even across the tread face at the proper inflation pressure. Why do that? Rubber costs money and one way to reduce the amount of rubber is to use less in strategic parts of the tread.

Further, a well-designed tire will have a fairly even footprint for a wide range of loads and inflation pressures. How are you supposed to pick out the proper pressure when they all look good?

I prefer the Tire Pressure Build-up Test:

Before starting out on an extended tow (at least an hour!), measure and record both the inflation pressures and the ambient temperature.

It's also a good idea to inspect the tires by rubbing a GLOVED hand over the entire tread surface. You are looking for bulges. If you find any, replace the tire immediately!

After an hour or so into the trip, stop and measure the inflation pressure and note how much pressure has built up.

You don't want more than a 10% buildup - excluding ambient temperature effects:
Ambient temperature effect = 2% per every 10°F change in ambient temperature.

If you get more than 10% pressure buildup (excluding temperature effects), you need more load carrying capacity in your tires - either more inflation pressure or a bigger tire size.

Needless to say, you want to be aware of how heavily you are loading your trailer. More Load = More Pressure build up!

[jadatis]

It was a reaction to other post, in wich chalktest was described.
So then if you use it, mind my remarks.

[Huntindog]

jadatis wrote:
A radial tire stays within a large range with total width on the ground.
So if you found the pressure, beginning high, at wich chalk wears even, you have still a small surface-length on the ground.
Then when keep lowering, at a certain pressure, sides chalk begin wearing off.
At the lowest pressure, at wich chalk still wears even, the surface_length is larger, so larger surface on ground so best contact.

But then mayby at higher speed tire overheats.
So for safety of tires, you have to begin high, and stop lowering pressure, when chalk wears even.

THis works well for vehicles with oversized tires. Fot TTs, not so much

[Grit_dog]

When’s the last time either of you (jabatis or mowermech) did a chalk test on a trailer tire, or any tire for that fact?

It’s not just that you’re posting confusing and potentially dangerous information, especially when it comes to trailer tires, but by design, the (largest contact patch theory) is largely inapplicable when it comes to trailer tires…and many other tire/rim/vehicle combinations.

And even if tire chalk test wasn’t fraught with other considerations that can/will cause many chalk tests to be invalid, it takes far more time and is far more subjective than just knowing a decent approximate weight and using an inflation chart.
You both are trying real hard to find a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist.
And worth mentioning a second time….wholly the wrong approach for trailer tires in particular.

@ huntindog, you’re correct, weights could vary side to side and likely may. If they vary front to back on a side by much at all, though, it’s likely a towing setup issue. Nose up or down on torsion axles. That said, virtually no one has or uses tire scales (except racers) and it’s equally as impractical an approach as chalking albeit for different reasons.

[Huntindog]

Grit dog wrote:
Take whatever it weighs (gvw if you don’t know actual) divide it by 4, look up the pressure for that weight on a chart.
Or go max pressure for the tires on it assuming they’re the proper ones for the trailer, if you’re not willing to look it up.

Do not divide by 4. Most TTs indidual tire weights are not equal. I used to be on a race car pit crew, and we had scales to measure all 4 wheels at once to set up the car. One day I used them On the TT I had then. It was a real eye opener.

That said, just run them at the max for the tires. They will run cooler and be more resistant to sway. You may sacrifice a little tread wear. But that is not important as most TT tires age out long before the tread is gone. ST tires need all the help they can get to make it that long.

[jadatis]

A radial tire stays within a large range with total width on the ground.
So if you found the pressure, beginning high, at wich chalk wears even, you have still a small surface-length on the ground.
Then when keep lowering, at a certain pressure, sides chalk begin wearing off.
At the lowest pressure, at wich chalk still wears even, the surface_length is larger, so larger surface on ground so best contact.

But then mayby at higher speed tire overheats.
So for safety of tires, you have to begin high, and stop lowering pressure, when chalk wears even.

[mowermech]

Grit dog wrote:

mowermech wrote:
You could always use the redneck/jack-pine savage method of finding correct tire pressures:
1. Load the vehicle to the "normal" load usually carried.
2. On a hard, dry, flat surface make some chalk marks across the tire tread.
3. Drive the vehicle for a hundred yards or so.
4. Check the chalk marks for wear:
a. If the marks are gone, the tire is properly inflated for the present load.
b. If the marks are worn away in the center, the tire is over inflated.
c. If the marks are worn away on the edges, the tire is under inflated.

NOTE: This method works for all on-road vehicles, and should be done with the tires cold.

This is ok to tell if a tire is grossly over or under inflated but literally makes no sense and has no bearing on the OPs question, unless he’s somehow stranded in the middle of Death Valley with an air compressor and no pressure gauge or some other scenario equally as ridiculous.

I have always been taught (by civilian and military instructors) that for safety you want the maximum contact patch between the tires and the road. So, for maximum traction and braking, I want the chalk mark to wear away evenly across the tire tread. If it wears only in the middle or on the edges, that means the contact patch is quite small!
I do NOT want that!
When the brakes (not breaks) are strongly applied, that small contact patch will slide. Not a good idea, IMO.
Of course, YMMV...

[jadatis]

Grit dog wrote:
^Thats TMI for the OP. He found the max psi rating on the tire. That’s good enough for him….
And you are overcomplicating it.

Then those pressure/loadcapacity lists for ST are also overcomplicating, and going even as low as 25 psi and no reserve and given per tire.
My list makes it allready a bitt less complicated, because given per axle and maximum reserve build in, so topicstarter dont need to do pre-calculations.

Wenn ever TS determined the axleloads acurately, it will most likely come to 65 psi, but then he knows its not a pressure determined in the blue.

Airstream TT's have as exeption to the rule, in general comfortable reserves in the tires the GAWR's and comfortable reserve in the GAWR'S to the GVWR.
Then often popped rivets when using the max of tire,

Most other brands have yust enaugh loadcapacity to law for the GAWR's.
So most TT brands need the max of tire or even more. Do then an upgrade of tires is a good idea.

[Grit_dog]

Sandia Man wrote:
ST tires are not to be filled based on weight as you would on passenger and LT tires, they perform best at max psi and that is the way we filled our ST tires for 3 decades of towing fifth wheels and travel trailers. With all the issues online and on forums about ST tires, we NEVER had a blowout across 4 different RVs and roughly 100K mile across the 30 year span. Below excerpt is from Tire Track website.

Special Trailer (ST) Tire Maintenance
Allowing inflation pressure to drop can dangerously overload a trailer tire, resulting in excessive heat buildup and possibly a blowout. And while not always resulting in immediate tire failure, even a short period of operating a significantly under-inflated trailer tire can cause hidden internal structural damage that can result in tire failure. Tire load capacity is reduced while tread/sidewall deflection and heat buildup are increased anytime a tire is operated without enough inflation pressure to carry its load. The chance of failure greatly increases if trailer tires are underinflated or overloaded.

You sorta totally disproved your own personal theory according to the excerpt you just quoted….and ST tires are rated incrementally for capacity based on pressure.
That said it’s generally ok to err on the side of more pressure than min required for the load.

[Grit_dog]

mowermech wrote:
You could always use the redneck/jack-pine savage method of finding correct tire pressures:
1. Load the vehicle to the "normal" load usually carried.
2. On a hard, dry, flat surface make some chalk marks across the tire tread.
3. Drive the vehicle for a hundred yards or so.
4. Check the chalk marks for wear:
a. If the marks are gone, the tire is properly inflated for the present load.
b. If the marks are worn away in the center, the tire is over inflated.
c. If the marks are worn away on the edges, the tire is under inflated.

NOTE: This method works for all on-road vehicles, and should be done with the tires cold.

This is ok to tell if a tire is grossly over or under inflated but literally makes no sense and has no bearing on the OPs question, unless he’s somehow stranded in the middle of Death Valley with an air compressor and no pressure gauge or some other scenario equally as ridiculous.

[BarneyS]

Sandia Man wrote:
ST tires are not to be filled based on weight as you would on passenger and LT tires, they perform best at max psi and that is the way we filled our ST tires for 3 decades of towing fifth wheels and travel trailers. With all the issues online and on forums about ST tires, we NEVER had a blowout across 4 different RVs and roughly 100K mile across the 30 year span. Below excerpt is from Tire Track website.

Special Trailer (ST) Tire Maintenance
Allowing inflation pressure to drop can dangerously overload a trailer tire, resulting in excessive heat buildup and possibly a blowout. And while not always resulting in immediate tire failure, even a short period of operating a significantly under-inflated trailer tire can cause hidden internal structural damage that can result in tire failure. Tire load capacity is reduced while tread/sidewall deflection and heat buildup are increased anytime a tire is operated without enough inflation pressure to carry its load. The chance of failure greatly increases if trailer tires are underinflated or overloaded.

I'm with Sandia Man. We traveled all over the U.S. towing our trailers with the ST tires always set at Max sidewall pressure and never had a single tire problem in over 30 years.
Barney