BD diesel 2WD Low on an Aisin

blofgren wrote:

noteven wrote:
Will this kit work on a 2006 3500 4x4 manual trans with always turns front axle / driveline?

No I don't think so. The 2013 and up have a central axle disconnect that this kit bypasses when the transfer case is engaged. I don't think the 3rd gen trucks have a CAD.

Correct - my 3rd gen has non disconnect front axle.

Thanks

noteven wrote:
Will this kit work on a 2006 3500 4x4 manual trans with always turns front axle / driveline?

No I don't think so. The 2013 and up have a central axle disconnect that this kit bypasses when the transfer case is engaged. I don't think the 3rd gen trucks have a CAD.

Will this kit work on a 2006 3500 4x4 manual trans with always turns front axle / driveline?

I installed the BD 2 Low kit on my 2013 with the G56 manual transmission. It works great and has eliminated me having to constantly be on the clutch during tricky back ups with the trailer. It will definitely extend my clutch life.

I didn't want to drill the dash either so I bought a single switch bezel and reamed out the opening to accept the switch on a friction fit. I then ran the wiring into the storage area in the bottom of the centre of the dash and mounted the bezel in there with double sided tape. It is easy to access, hardly visible, and no holes in the dash!

noteven wrote:
Ok thanks Housted - BD's own website says only applicable to Gen 2 and previous trucks. It should be good to go on my Gen 3 I Shift manual

No, it wont work on our trucks. Our front axles are a lot different from the second gens.
To do it on our trucks you have to replace the hubs with manual types.
$$$$

Ok thanks Housted - BD's own website says only applicable to Gen 2 and previous trucks. It should be good to go on my Gen 3 I Shift manual

Here is the one I used....
BD Diesel 1030705 Unlock Kit
Available at Amazon.

Housted

Well we'll just have to agree to disagree.
However, the Aisin is a commercial transmission meant for heavier, bigger trucks. No matter what, it has no problem keeping up with this kind of duty.

BenK wrote:
Disagree...and here is why...

The heat/damage in an automatic comes from the shearing of ATF in the TC during high torque at stall. This happens in all gears and makes no matter old 3 speed automatic to today's 10 speed automatics to any automatic with even higher gear ratios

Stall happens in all gears and is almost a preset RPM. There are some new wizzy-bang stuff, but generally speaking the stall speed is preset by the architecture of the TC (the angle of attack of all three sets of vanes, the gap, the dia of them all, etc)

In low gear trying to move a TV and trailer in 1st gear...normally has lots and lots of torque available. Give it even more throttle because the TV/Trailer is off center and maybe on an incline and toss in rutted campground dirt/gravel/etc surface

This scenario is common and going to be held there at stall way longer than getting it going from a stop at an intersection

and yes...easier on the transmission gear sets...not the TC...the TC will always take it in the shorts in this kind of usage/situation...and is where the main heat to burn ATF is generated

Then once there is burnt ATF (both degraded by heat ATF itself and the burnt ATF ash...AKA particulates, which are abrasives)

ScottG wrote:
The slippage will be less with the lower gearing of Lo range. This makes it easier on the trans, not harder.
If it is fully up to it in high range (and it certainly is) it is even more up to it with lower gearing.

BenK wrote:
Correct....but....the slippage is now in the hydraulic fluid inside the TC

Why some burn up their automatic's going slow....maneuvering a heavy trailer into a tight spot.

One move will be fine, but if they have to make several, high throttle maneuvers...sawing back and forth...they risk burning up the clutches inside the automatic tranny....some spot on...most will then have burnt ATF ash in there.

Hopefully there will be enough 'good' ATF to dilute those abrasive particles and are filtered out...but over time and done too often...over loads the filter....eating the auto's clutches...

Once anyone of those clutches slip...in what seemingly is an instant...that gear's clutches are toast. Usually reverse and/or 1st

ScottG wrote:
There's no clutch slippage with a auto - the torque converter does all the work and having it in a lower gear ratio is even easier on the trans.
I went one summer without a front drive shaft. It was great using 2wd low!!

Disagree...and here is why...

The heat/damage in an automatic comes from the shearing of ATF in the TC during high torque at stall. This happens in all gears and makes no matter old 3 speed automatic to today's 10 speed automatics to any automatic with even higher gear ratios

Stall happens in all gears and is almost a preset RPM. There are some new wizzy-bang stuff, but generally speaking the stall speed is preset by the architecture of the TC (the angle of attack of all three sets of vanes, the gap, the dia of them all, etc)

In low gear trying to move a TV and trailer in 1st gear...normally has lots and lots of torque available. Give it even more throttle because the TV/Trailer is off center and maybe on an incline and toss in rutted campground dirt/gravel/etc surface

This scenario is common and going to be held there at stall way longer than getting it going from a stop at an intersection

and yes...easier on the transmission gear sets...not the TC...the TC will always take it in the shorts in this kind of usage/situation...and is where the main heat to burn ATF is generated

Then once there is burnt ATF (both degraded by heat ATF itself and the burnt ATF ash...AKA particulates, which are abrasives)

ScottG wrote:
The slippage will be less with the lower gearing of Lo range. This makes it easier on the trans, not harder.
If it is fully up to it in high range (and it certainly is) it is even more up to it with lower gearing.

BenK wrote:
Correct....but....the slippage is now in the hydraulic fluid inside the TC

Why some burn up their automatic's going slow....maneuvering a heavy trailer into a tight spot.

One move will be fine, but if they have to make several, high throttle maneuvers...sawing back and forth...they risk burning up the clutches inside the automatic tranny....some spot on...most will then have burnt ATF ash in there.

Hopefully there will be enough 'good' ATF to dilute those abrasive particles and are filtered out...but over time and done too often...over loads the filter....eating the auto's clutches...

Once anyone of those clutches slip...in what seemingly is an instant...that gear's clutches are toast. Usually reverse and/or 1st

ScottG wrote:
There's no clutch slippage with a auto - the torque converter does all the work and having it in a lower gear ratio is even easier on the trans.
I went one summer without a front drive shaft. It was great using 2wd low!!

Flashman wrote:

Housted wrote:
I installed it on my 2015 RAM 3500. Real happy with it, I have to manuver slowly in reverse to park my 5er. Very easy install, a bit pricey, but it works great. BTW I have the Aisin trans.

Housted

Where did you mount the switch - brand new truck and am reluctant to drill into the dash.

This is one of those must haves, it simply prevents 4 wheel drive steering bind. This makes campground maneuvering so much easier. In 2 wheel low, the Cummins at idle generates more than enough power to move the truck and RV during maneuvering, even on soft ground. This allows you to keep your foot on the brake pedal and removes any chance of throttle lurching.

The kit has nothing to do with the transmission, it uses two relays to modify the signals going from the four wheel drive module to the transfer case.

This is the kit I bought for my 2015 3500;
https://www.amazon.com/BD-Diesel-1030705-Unlock-Kit/dp/B01HZV41G0

I mounted the switch on the panel below the headlamp switch. There is nothing behind this panel and a good place to mount switches.