Diesel vs gas......................

[blt2ski]

OK folks, there have been a few to many diesel vs gas threads that have shall we say gone to "Hell and a hand basket"! So if all of you would put in you BEST, no flaming reasons for going gas vs diesel, pro and con, I will either leave your thread, or copy and paste pertinant info to the 4 posts of pro and con of diesel or gas. This can include the GM 8.1 vs Dmax or Ford V-8/10 vs PSD etc too.

Be real and honest in you answers, not hear say, flaming etc PLEASE!

If posts are good ones, I will leave, if inflamatory or trolling in nature, they will be deleted! I will get this stick'd to the top for future parusing for those that need this type of info.

Added 6-23-04

We are getting closer to answers I am looking for etc.

Stuff like Ken's - T-Bone posts are good. There are a few others of you that have not posted, some with a 9 point question and answer type to figure out how you went with one or the other. If you are one of those, PLEASE repost in this thread. I may have to look up whom has done this and PM you, but if you think this is you, you now know what to do.

Also, for those of you with $ per gallon for either fuel right now, I would prefer to see a post with ...."in my area, diesel is typically .10 less than unleaded" then explain your numbers. As currently in the Seattle area, diesel and unleaded are any where from 2.05 -2.30 per gallon, with mid test .10 more and premium about .20 more, with equal high low splits. Two weeks ago those prices were upwards of .30 -.40 per gallon more. people were posting $ per gallon that were for me. "I wish" If someone is reading your post a year from now, they may want to know where your paying 1.65, when the price of fuel is over $3 per gallon. Let's keep prices out of it if possible.

Bert and tin tipi, got into a good discusion on the pros and cons of RPM's, drive train etc. I would prefer to NOT see the quote of the other in responding threads, maybe just write a quick wording of re tranny gearing, instead of the whole 40 words or so in that paragragh, so the repsonse is shorter if possible quicker and easier to read etc.

I have deleted some 15+/- posts, that were off topic etc. Please note, I am trying to keep this at the top, as the ONLY gas/diesel thread in this area. So if one is trying to decide, we do not have to go thru this BS any more. As such, I will be deleting ANY future posts close to resembling this type of topic. I may have to change "this" title to a better one, if one has a better sounding title, to be more positive, better claification, let me know here, or in a PM/e-mail, what ever you feel most comfortible with.

Again thank you for all of you that are keeping responses positive, etc.

Also we could use a few more positive reasons to go gas, as many can see I have both gas and diesel, both have a place! Both have positive reasons to buy that fuel, lets keep the threads etc to that purpose only!

Marty

[Madhatter1]

Hannibal wrote:
What's the OCI with the Blue Bird John? I'm surprised the bus and MH doesn't have a C series in it. The B is more suitable for a car.

A car? Are you serious?? a car??? You drink too much cool-aid.

[Jarlaxle]

Hannibal wrote:
What's the OCI with the Blue Bird John? I'm surprised the bus and MH doesn't have a C series in it. The B is more suitable for a car.

The Cummins ISB is common in school buses and medium trucks (most big Ryder trucks 2008 & newer have the new 6.7 ISB)...the big 8.3 ISC is drastic overkill.

[smcrea]

Thanks for the input on oil changes!

It seems that the oil monitor and 80% or 5K whichever comes first maybe a good rule of thumb!

To be honest, my current TV is a 1/2 Suburban 4WD and when towing and get an oil change I always get the rear transfer case checked at oil change. Several times it's been observed that the oil in the transfer case is either slightly low or a little dark. So this seems to be a good reason to go for the 5K

I'm hoping on the new TV a 1 ton 3500 4WD that I wont experience this heavy wear on the rear transfer case lubricant!.. any feedback?

[Jarlaxle]

In daily service, I recall 250 hours. Now, in limited use, annually.

[Hannibal]

What's the OCI with the Blue Bird John? I'm surprised the bus and MH doesn't have a C series in it. The B is more suitable for a car.

[Jarlaxle]

Madhatter1 wrote:

smcrea wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.

It's funny you should say "change oil every 5K" I come from the UK and the 'standard' oil change number used in the UK is change every 5K.

Only when I came to teh US did I ever see change oil every 3K

Is this something that was made up by the oil and filter manufactures or is genuine?

5K seems reasonable to me!.. How about everyone else?

Back in 98 at a Cummins dealer I saw that the reccomended oil change on the 275HP ISB pushin a motorhome was 15K miles. Ever since then 8-12K for me.

I recall the commercial and motorhome ISB's hold MUCH more oil than the ones in the Rams! (Offhand, my friend's Blue Bird holds 16 quarts.)

[Crazyfoe]

smcrea wrote:
I've always been one for keeping my vehicle as "Bone Stock" :)I'm learning the jargon 🙂

I 100% agree.

BTW When towing I use synthetic oils with no additives.

So are we saying that we should only use Manufacturer Oil filters? Is this really practical?

How do I know a good oil filter from a bad one? same deal with air filter and other consumables. It's not always practical or economic to use GM, Ford, Dodge whatever parts?

One other related question? How good and trustworthy is the "Oil Life Indicator".

On my current GM Yukon, when I reach 3K miles I change the oil using synthetic but the change oil indicator maybe only indicating 50%. Am I being over careful and wasting my precious money, or should I just trust the oil life indicator more?

Use Napa Gold (Wix) filters or AC Delco and you'll be just fine.

I use the oil life indicator is been designed to accurately determine when a change is needed. But the important thing is many of our tow rigs may not even see 3-5k per year. It's important to change it once a year even if the mileage doesn't indicate it. YMMV

[Ram4Sam]

smcrea wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.

It's funny you should say "change oil every 5K" I come from the UK and the 'standard' oil change number used in the UK is change every 5K.

Only when I came to teh US did I ever see change oil every 3K

Is this something that was made up by the oil and filter manufactures or is genuine?

5K seems reasonable to me!.. How about everyone else?

The three thousand mile oil change was thought up by the quick lube oil change places looking to drum up more business....

You can stop all the guessing by having an oil analysis done the next time you change the oil(I use Blackstone Labs), they will give a mileage figure based on science.

Sam

[Madhatter1]

smcrea wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.

It's funny you should say "change oil every 5K" I come from the UK and the 'standard' oil change number used in the UK is change every 5K.

Only when I came to teh US did I ever see change oil every 3K

Is this something that was made up by the oil and filter manufactures or is genuine?

5K seems reasonable to me!.. How about everyone else?

Back in 98 at a Cummins dealer I saw that the reccomended oil change on the 275HP ISB pushin a motorhome was 15K miles. Ever since then 8-12K for me.

[Hannibal]

You can read about oil and OCIs until your eyeballs hurt over at this site. To me it's just oil and I change it every 5k. I think these people worship oil twice a week.:B

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

[smcrea]

Hannibal wrote:
I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.

It's funny you should say "change oil every 5K" I come from the UK and the 'standard' oil change number used in the UK is change every 5K.

Only when I came to teh US did I ever see change oil every 3K

Is this something that was made up by the oil and filter manufactures or is genuine?

5K seems reasonable to me!.. How about everyone else?

[Hannibal]

I say OEM style as meaning OEM or equivelant approved by the manufacturer. I use Motocraft or Purolator on my Fords. Mopar, Purolator or Fleetguard on my Dodges. No howling intake or droning exhaust for me. I change my oil every 5k miles synthetic or not. Easier to remember, within the manufacturer's recommendation and I sleep well with that schedule. I would trust the oil life monitor but I like a schedule to plan around.

[smcrea]

I've always been one for keeping my vehicle as "Bone Stock" :)I'm learning the jargon 🙂

I 100% agree.

BTW When towing I use synthetic oils with no additives.

So are we saying that we should only use Manufacturer Oil filters? Is this really practical?

How do I know a good oil filter from a bad one? same deal with air filter and other consumables. It's not always practical or economic to use GM, Ford, Dodge whatever parts?

One other related question? How good and trustworthy is the "Oil Life Indicator".

On my current GM Yukon, when I reach 3K miles I change the oil using synthetic but the change oil indicator maybe only indicating 50%. Am I being over careful and wasting my precious money, or should I just trust the oil life indicator more?

[motoadvrider]

I was always one of the ones that thought the cost of the diesels and upkeep were way too much for the benefit. Boy was I wrong. I had a 09 GMC 2500 6.0 gaser that towed my 8000lb 5er without too much trouble unless we were going up a long or steep hill. The best mileage I ever got was 10mpg on a relative flat road with no wind. You add a few hills and the ever present Texas wind and mileage dropped to 7 to 8mpg. Not towing a trailer it would get 13 in town and 15 to 16 highway. The beast also required the use of premium gas which usually costs the same or more than diesel.
I retired in August and gave myself a present...2012 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel King Ranch Crew. It gets 16 to 17mpg in town and 18 to 19 highway. Towing the 5er it got 12mpg on a windy day and 12.8 on a calm day....again only the slight hills in Texas.
If you mash on the gas pedal you better be buckeled in because that thing turns into a rocket.

[Hannibal]

Bone stock is like it came from the factory. Maintain it by the owner's manual and not the aftermarket advertisers. Only use approved by the vehicle manufacturer OEM (original equipment manufacturer) style filters, parts and maintenance items. No additives are necessary or recommended by the manufacturer other than those that are in the owner's manual. If the owner's manual says no to extended oil change intervals or additives, then pay no attention to those fancy adds claiming you need their products for your truck. Just my humble opinion based on a high level of reliability from a long list of vehicles.