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First Annual Inspection - Question

SusanDallas
Explorer
Explorer
My travel trailer is due for its free 32 point inspection at the dealership where I purchased it last year. I had planned on waiting at the dealership while this was done since it is 100 miles each way from where I live.

Does it take a lot of time to do this inspection? I have been waiting almost a month now. The dealership is telling me that this is a busy time for them and they are having trouble setting aside a block of time to do this. Do most of you leave your travel trailer at the dealership and pick it up at a later date after the inspection is completed? I would really hate to do this since it would mean I would have to make two round trips to the dealership. This would be 400 miles and be very time consuming.

This is my first travel trailer so I am not sure what all is involved in the inspection. Your feedback would be appreciated.
20 REPLIES 20

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
SusanDallas wrote:
I am sorry, but I am a 65 year old female. I don't think many of us are willing to get up on the roof and check air conditioning units and roof seams. I wouldn't know what to look for even if I got up on the roof.

I have 2 houses and can paint, build decks and porches and put up wood and chain link fences. But I know my limitations.

I have reconsidered since reading the rest of your answers. I believe it would probably be better to let the dealership do the inspection even if I have to sit there all day and wait on it. Thanks again for your responses. They really are a huge help.

I'm not sure what your options are beside the dealer. But You should definitely have your trailer inspected. If their is a local mobile guy that could be an option. IF there is a local independent repair shop that could be an option. As a last resort make a plan to go to the dealer providing they will do it while you wait.
19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,Prog.50A surge ,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637

Passin_Thru
Explorer
Explorer
The only thing it needs maint. wise is to have hinges lubed and the wheel bearings greased. Then wash and wax it. IF you have things under warranty to do, then go to the dealer. Proxim2020 did a good job with the list. Be sure and check the fridge door for Mildew and we use Clorox kitchen cleaner to stop it.

SusanDallas
Explorer
Explorer
I am sorry, but I am a 65 year old female. I don't think many of us are willing to get up on the roof and check air conditioning units and roof seams. I wouldn't know what to look for even if I got up on the roof.

I have 2 houses and can paint, build decks and porches and put up wood and chain link fences. But I know my limitations.

I have reconsidered since reading the rest of your answers. I believe it would probably be better to let the dealership do the inspection even if I have to sit there all day and wait on it. Thanks again for your responses. They really are a huge help.

FrankShore
Explorer
Explorer
Which brand and model number is your TT? Just curious. Thanks!
2014 F-250
2014 Minnie Winnie 2351DKS (Traded In-Burnout-Use A Surge Protector!)
2015 Arctic Fox 22G (Great Trailer But Heavy - Traded In)
2018 Lance 1685 w/ Solar & 4 Seasons Package
1999 Beneteau 461 Oceanis Yacht
En Norski i en Fransk båt - Dette må jeg se!

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
“So, I think I will go with the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." And “not having any problems” isn’t appropriate either.

Inspect closely. All TTs need close, regular inspections. This is not a lazy person’s or “I’m too busy” person’s hobby.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

gmw_photos
Explorer
Explorer
Just to add a little more on what Lynnmor said, my earlier post did not suggest avoiding inspection.

I certainly meant to imply the opposite. You really do have to stay after these these things. You MUST be proactive. Leaking seams destroy more RV's than any other single fault I would guess. It's a shame too, because seam maintenance is actually quite easy. A little time consuming and a little messy at times with dicor, but it's a needed process.

And again, if your mechanical abilities are not up to doing bearing, brake and suspension maint, then find a local shop. Most cities of any size would have a trailer shop. Not a RV dealer, I mean a shop that sells and services trailers like utility and cargo trailers. If you are in a rural area, check with the local AG equipment dealer. They may be willing to work on it, or can give you the name of someone as a recco.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
SusanDallas wrote:
Thank you for all your help. I believe I will skip the annual inspection. I haven't had any problems at all with my travel trailer since I bought it. So, I think I will go with the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."


Of course you need to check to see if it is broke. After a roof leaks for a while and then you notice the problem, it is too late. Likewise, if you have leaf springs the bushings will wear out in short order, if the wear is not noticed, major problems will happen. Brakes and bearings should be properly inspected soon after purchase and then maybe every 12,000 miles.

I'm just trying to scare you into doing things right. A broken suspension part or a bad bearing will be a trip ending and possibly dangerous event. As said before, water leaks can cause major damage and possibly total a trailer. I dwell on these items because other problems are minor in comparison and can be repaired for a reasonable cost.

So why did everyone steer you away from the 32 point inspection? Experienced RV'ers know that you will leave the dealership with less money and real problems might still remain. Learn to do all you can, and for those jobs that you cannot do, find a local mobile repairman that has a decent reputation. Bearings and brakes could be handled by any good garage.

You should jump on here with any questions before attempting anything you are not sure of. For example, something as simple as caulking a seam you need to use the right caulk, so just ask giving a good description of where you want to do that repair. Whatever it is, folks here are more than happy to help.

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
Ron3rd wrote:
Reminds me of the "free brake inspection"

:B :B

troubledwaters
Explorer III
Explorer III
SusanDallas wrote:
Thank you for all your help. I believe I will skip the annual inspection. I haven't had any problems at all with my travel trailer since I bought it. So, I think I will go with the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Regardless, you or someone you trust needs to get up on the roof and check all the seams. Seams on the roof is the number 1 cause of major issues. They need to be checked and re-sealed as needed at least once a year.

SusanDallas
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you for all your help. I believe I will skip the annual inspection. I haven't had any problems at all with my travel trailer since I bought it. So, I think I will go with the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
I do not drop of my TT for the reason the OP mentioned. Around here the dealers are busy and I do not want to wait. Unless there is a problem that is under warrantee a busy dealer really does not have the time to mess with it. Nor do they want to pay their help to do a free inspection of any length.

The 31 items listed by Proxim above are good annual checks and if you do them yourself you will have a better feel for the condition of your TT than if some technician give them a once over look.

There is really no way to avoid the fact that owning a TT is like owning a summer cottage, you usually do the work yourself.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Or the dealer's "low cost" oil change, Ron.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Reminds me of the "free brake inspection"
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Community Alumni
Not applicable
The free inspections are usually very basic checks and really are designed to get you to come back and spend some more money with them. Most of the tasks they are performing can easily be performed by you.

Is it beneficial? It can be. Some people are at a point in their life where climbing up a ladder or crawling under a trailer just isn't a good idea. Some people are their own worse enemy when it comes to finding and fixing issues. At a minimum the inspections usually highlight points of failure and come with an offer to fix them. Take issues found with a grain of salt though, it is the dealer after all. Find out if the suggested work is truly necessary before agreeing to have it performed.

If you're capable of maintaining the trailer yourself then it's worth learning how to inspect and fix things. The owner's manual is a good starting point. You can find how to do essentially every maintenance task online, watching YouTube videos, or ask questions here. A dealer in this area does the free inspection thing and here's what they do.

1. Check Interior and Exterior for damage, delamination, oxidation, etc.
2. Check frame, axles and suspension for damage, cracks, loose fittings, and excessive.
3. Check age of tires and recommend replacement if 5-7 years old.
4. Check tire pressure and set pressure as needed.
5. Check lug nuts to see they are properly secured and at proper torque.
6. Check spare tire for proper size, inflation and condition.
7. Visually inspect roof, seams and sealant for damage, cracking, dry rot, wear, mold, mildew, or missing sealant (MOLD & MILDEW CAUSE RAPID DETERIORATION TO RUBBER ROOFS)
8. Inspect roof vents for damage, fit and sealant.
9. Inspect A/C shroud for damage, dry rot or improper fit.
10. Inspect underbelly for holes, cuts or damage due to road hazards and whether secure.
11. Inspect the slide-out rubber seals, wipers, and toppers for damage, dry rot, cracking or peeling. Check slide-out alignment.
12. Inspect awning for dry rot or tears; check hardware for damage and improper operation.
13. Check battery for proper charge, fluids and connections.
14. Check all exterior lights, lens, and mounts for proper operation.
15. Inspect Air Conditioner filters for proper operation.
16. Perform LP Gas pressure leak.
17. Inspect LP tanks, connections, gauges and mounts.
18. Inspect gate valves and dump connectors for damage or wear.
19. Inspect the 7-way and 4-way trailer connectors and cable for corrosion or damage.
20. Inspect hitch coupler components for wear or damage.
21. Inspect safety chains and connecting mechanisms for weakened, damaged or corroded condition.
22. Inspect propane gas detector for proper operation.
23. Inspect smoke detector for proper operation.
24. Inspect carbon monoxide detector for proper operation.
25. Check fire extinguisher for easy access and proper charging.
26. Check 30/50 amp power cord for damage or improper operation.
27. Check the exterior step hinges and brackets for corrosion or damage.
28. Inspect ladder for damage and for tight, proper attachment to RV
29. Check exterior compartment doors and access doors for proper operation or damage.
30. Inspect refrigerator and hot water exterior components for damage, corrosion and missing items
31. Check break-away switch for improper mounting or for damage.