Fresh water system issue?

So being new to this I not sure about valve locations and positions...There is a small valve that looks like it isolates the antifreeze line, then there is a larger valve with hot and cold water lines attached to it, the small one has a single handle that turns about a 1/4 turn. the larger is similar to a residential valve under the sink. oval and turns several turns, this one should be aligned with the lines right???? in other words the "points" of the oval handle in line with the hot and cold lines.....

That was the very same scenario I found myself in as a first time buyer of a TT in Wisconsin. Bought it in 'Spring'. Which is the first clue that the bypass is turned on.:W

If you are close to a dealership bring it down and say you want to make an appointment for service for no water, adding you are a new RV'ers.

What happens next you will find funny later on. The 'first' thing the Service Manager does is sends a service guy out to your RV, he goes in checks your valves and turns your bypass off! Voila water.:B

They see SOOO many of new RV'ers finding themselves in this position they said they are usually 99% sure it's the bypass valves and just nip it in the bud by sending the guy out to check.....and they don't charge you.

Good Luck. And once you find out the position for on and off for the couple of lines you have to turn knobs for, put some red tape on each to indicate off so you know which way turn them come winter.:W

ssemalone wrote:
So being new to this I:m not sure about valve locations and positions...There is a small valve that looks like it isolates the antifreeze line, then there is a larger valve with hot and cold water lines attached to it, the small one has a single handle that turns about a 1/4 turn. the larger is similar to a residential valve under the sink. oval and turns several turns, this one should be aligned with the lines right???? in other words the "points" of the oval handle in line with the hot and cold lines.....

More info is needed. What part of the trailer are you looking??? What is the closest piece of equipment that is plumbed near these valves. With so many makes and models of trailers, it is hard to discern what exactly we are troubleshooting.

I can tell you that I have two quarter turn valves very close to my HW tank. Almost always the physical handle position is indicative of the valve's position. If the handle is parallel to the pipe/hose, the valve should be open.
The oval handled valve that you speak of should just be fully on or off.... typically, these are turned to the left to open and to the right to close.

Have you given the hot water tank time to fill?? If properly winterized, you will need at about six gallons of water to displace the air in the tank. That can take a few minutes. Also, make sure the drain plug at the bottom was reinserted and the pressure relief valve at the top has been set back to close.

So being new to this I:m not sure about valve locations and positions...There is a small valve that looks like it isolates the antifreeze line, then there is a larger valve with hot and cold water lines attached to it, the small one has a single handle that turns about a 1/4 turn. the larger is similar to a residential valve under the sink. oval and turns several turns, this one should be aligned with the lines right???? in other words the "points" of the oval handle in line with the hot and cold lines.....

Could be any of the above answers or a combination of a couple. Make sure the valves are aligned so the pump is drawing from the fresh water tank and not the siphon line (if you have one). Open a cold water valve and run the pump. If you get water from the valve then do each cold water valve and the toilet. Make sure the hot water heater is not bypassed (again if you have it piped with a bypass) and then open a hot water valve and run the pump until water comes out. It takes a while to fill the heater so be patient. Open each hot water valve until water comes out. Now make sure all the valves are shut. If the pump continues to run you need to check for leaks. If no leaks, you probably have a bad pressure switch in the pump discharge and it will need to be repaired/replaced. Hope this helps.

harley4275 wrote:

ssemalone wrote:
Ok:
Freshwater tank full, pump runs and runs, never seem to pressure up and stop running....sounds like lots of air in the lines, but it never seems to stop... ???????????

Your winterizing bypass hose valve near the water pump is still on winterize position . sucking air...turn valve where 2 ' hose is connected too.

This is exactly what happened to me two weeks ago on our first trip out for the season.

I went out and turned the knob and water started flowing normally.

ssemalone wrote:
Ok:
Freshwater tank full, pump runs and runs, never seem to pressure up and stop running....sounds like lots of air in the lines, but it never seems to stop... ???????????

Your winterizing bypass hose valve near the water pump is still on winterize position . sucking air...turn valve where 2 ' hose is connected too.

You have an open line somewhere. Something as small as the valve sticking on the outside water inlet, or the cap to the fresh water inlet is not on right. You have to check all possible openings.

Is it trying to fill the water heater tank, that can take a while if it was empty. Outside shower turned off? Low point drains closed?

Make sure your battery is fully charged and/or your pump is getting higher than 12 volts. I ran into the same problem when my voltage was too low to allow the pump to pressure up high enough to trip the pressure switch.

Did it run OK yesterday or is this the first time out this season?