May-22-2016 10:37 AM
May-22-2016 04:11 PM
Gdetrailer wrote:darsben wrote:3oaks wrote:darsben wrote:House current is AC (alternating current). Impossible to be wired polarity specific.
First thing I would check is polarity on the outlet at the house.
black or hot to brass
white or neutral to silver.
Try reversing them and see what happens
UMM.. NO.
What part of the OPs last post don't you UNDERSTAND.
THEIR EXTENSION CORD IS FAULTY..
THE EXTENSION CORD HAS A FAULT, THEREFORE NO REASON FOR THE OP TO SWITCH OR CHANGE ANY OF THE HOUSE WIRING.
OP IS NOW USING A DIFFERENT EXTENSION CORD AND NO ONE IS GETTING SHOCKED..
PLEASE DO NOT TELL PEOPLE TO RANDOMLY SWITCH WIRES AROUND ON OUTLETS.
THE PROPER WAY TO DIAGNOSE FOR MISWIRED OUTLETS IS TO USE AN OUTLET TESTER..
May-22-2016 03:58 PM
Harvard wrote:smkettner wrote:
I assume the corrected ground may now be masking the ground fault issue.
Try plugging into a GFCI protected outlet.
And no mention of using an outlet tester... so polarity could still be an issue.
When an RV Ground/Chassis is allowed to float (ie: open ground), the capacitance between HOT to GROUND and GROUND to NEUTRAL will cause the floating Chassis to assume a voltage level < 120/2 = 60 VAC above Earth. The resulting current leak, which is normal, may or may not be enough to trip a GFCI.
May-22-2016 03:41 PM
smkettner wrote:
I assume the corrected ground may now be masking the ground fault issue.
Try plugging into a GFCI protected outlet.
And no mention of using an outlet tester... so polarity could still be an issue.
May-22-2016 02:40 PM
May-22-2016 02:00 PM
darsben wrote:3oaks wrote:darsben wrote:House current is AC (alternating current). Impossible to be wired polarity specific.
First thing I would check is polarity on the outlet at the house.
black or hot to brass
white or neutral to silver.
Try reversing them and see what happens
May-22-2016 01:49 PM
May-22-2016 01:43 PM
3oaks wrote:darsben wrote:House current is AC (alternating current). Impossible to be wired polarity specific.
First thing I would check is polarity on the outlet at the house.
May-22-2016 01:15 PM
DutchmenSport wrote:
I did not read all the post, but the problem is, the camper is not grounded. Simple, that's your problem. Make sure the power source is actually grounded. Plug in the next item and make sure it's still grounded, then all the way to the camper.
Does your standard 110 extension cord have the 3rd pin for grounding?
I had this problem only once, and that was several years ago with our previous camper. I was using an extension cord with the ground pin broken off, and when baefoot touching the trailer door, I'd get zapped.
May-22-2016 01:03 PM
May-22-2016 12:51 PM
darsben wrote:House current is AC (alternating current). Impossible to be wired polarity specific.
First thing I would check is polarity on the outlet at the house.
May-22-2016 12:25 PM
May-22-2016 12:12 PM
mudbud255 wrote:
Ok thanks everyone. I found culprit. The heavy duty extension cord I was using must be bad. I had another one and we swapped it, now no-one is getting shocked. Thank you for all the suggestions. We are all packed and ready to go. We leave Thursday for a 5 day trip to the springs. It will be our maiden voyage, I'm super excited. Again thanks everyone.
May-22-2016 12:10 PM
RoyB wrote:
The only way your trailer sees the frame grounding is through the three wire connection you make to your house...
You really have to respect this as what may just be a tingle shock to you might have real bad results to someone else or a small animal etc... UNPLUG your cables until you figure out what is wrong...
Two things to check... You have to be sure your are using all three conductors. Sometime folks cut off the GROUND PIN on the extension cords for some reason.
Then you need to check to see if the receptacle is wired properly... I use one of those CIRCUIT TESTERS from LOWES plugged into the 120VAC Receptacle in the house side... It will tell you the ground is not connected properly.
I also always use a 10 gauge (10-3) HD contractor grade extension cord... However a 12 GAUGE will work also. The smaller gauges red/orange 16-gauge cables from the WALMART is too small and will get hot on you especially if you are using your air conditioner.
I also always use the RV30A-15A LONG DOGBONE type RV adapters that looks like this..
Using the small round adapters would always get hot for me and eventually will burn up your good cords...
Roy Ken
We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.
May-22-2016 12:02 PM
May-22-2016 12:00 PM
RoyB wrote:
The only way your trailer sees the frame grounding is through the three wire connection you make to your house...
You really have to respect this as what may just be a tingle shock to you might have real bad results to someone else or a small animal etc... UNPLUG your cables until you figure out what is wrong...
Two things to check... You have to be sure your are using all three conductors. Sometime folks cut off the GROUND PIN on the extension cords for some reason.
Then you need to check to see if the receptacle is wired properly... I use one of those CIRCUIT TESTERS from LOWES plugged into the 120VAC Receptacle in the house side... It will tell you the ground is not connected properly.
I also always use a 10 gauge (10-3) HD contractor grade extension cord... However a 12 GAUGE will work also. The smaller gauges red/orange 16-gauge cables from the WALMART is too small and will get hot on you especially if you are using your air conditioner.
I also always use the RV30A-15A LONG DOGBONE type RV adapters that looks like this..
Using the small round adapters would always get hot for me and eventually will burn up your good cords...
Roy Ken
We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.