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Mote's avatar
Mote
Explorer
Aug 06, 2013

Help installing stable loads on 96 dodge ram

I received my stable loads yesterday. I got the A7200 model for the overloads that are on the top.
I drilled the holes in the current stops as instructed. When I tied to put the stable loads in place they don't fit. The front ones almost fit they have about an 1/2" of interference with the overload spring. The rear ones have a lot of interference. I'd have to but about 1/2 of the rubber off the stable load for it to clear the overload spring with the truck sitting unloaded.
Those of you will older dodge trucks did you cut off the rubber to fit in place or did you jack up the truck and slip it in without cutting off anything?
My thought was that if I don't cut off anything then I'll be compressing the overloads quite a bit even when I'm not loaded at all.
  • I called Tork Lift.
    They said to jack up the truck and slip them in. Try it that way first. If the ride unloaded is to rought then I can trim some off.
    He did say to not trim off to much as you will get into the metal cage that holds the bolt/plate/rubber together.
  • Specularius wrote:
    On my 2011 Ford I have to jack the truck up to get the rear stable loads in place. I put a floor jack under the hitch and jack up until the springs are fully extended but the tires are still on the ground. I take them back out when I get home as the ride is very harsh when not loaded.

    I use the upper StableLoads on the rear of the overload spring and Energy Suspension stops on the front of spring to give me a better unloaded ride.

    If you use the lower StableLoads, they definitely help the loaded ride but make the unloaded suffer. I tested this with pressure treated wood blocks before ordering the lowers which resulted in buying the quick disconnect models instead of the fixed older style.
  • I just jacked up the back of the truck and sliped them in.
  • On my 2011 Ford I have to jack the truck up to get the rear stable loads in place. I put a floor jack under the hitch and jack up until the springs are fully extended but the tires are still on the ground. I take them back out when I get home as the ride is very harsh when not loaded.
  • Try it first without cutting by lifting the truck off it's suspension and slipping them in. The whole idea is to prevent rear sag. If your stock springs are already sagging without a load, this will boost them back some.
    You can always trim some off, you CAN'T add material back so easy though. Work with any trimming in small steps.
  • Do the stops sit flush across the face of your overloads? You may just want to take a wedge out of the stops to match the angle without taking off too much material. The reason one side fits better than the other (front verses back) is that the stops and overloads are progressive so that more weight will engage more of the spring. I agree that your springs probably have sagged over the years - I just installed the lower StableLoads on my 2005 Ford and found it sags a little from new but was able to jack the receiver slightly up to fit them. I no longer have to air the bags up unless I tow and can keep level.
  • wcjeep wrote:
    Sounds like your factory springs have sagged quite a bit.

    I have no way of knowing if they have. Hopefully someone else on here has a similar truck and let me know how their's fit.
  • Sounds like your factory springs have sagged quite a bit.
  • Call Torklift!! They have all the answers and are very willing to help. It is after all their product.