:oWell as I was preparing for our maiden voyage with my "new" TC, I noticed that the extended hitch for towing my 18' G3 was not quite extended enough. I did some maneuvering in the driveway, and determined that I would need to get a longer hitch. But since I was all loaded up, campsite awaiting, etc., I figured I would be ok as long as I stayed away from really tight turns. Well that was true until the last day when I loaded up, and got going down a 2 lane highway and had to make a U-turn:S. Yup, it was just enough that the boat got into the rear jack and pulled the lag bolts away from the frame. I was so p!$$ed at myself because I knew better!!:M The damage is shown in the pics below.Upon the removal of the jack and brackets, I believe I can fix this. It looks like the corner frame is possibly a 1x2 or 2x2? The wood appeared to still be pretty solid, but it did split somewhat when the lag bolts pulled loose. It did seem to go back together pretty well. I'm thinking that I can get one of those epoxy wood repair kits and inject it into the cracks, lag bolt holes, and fill in the void areas. I think I could get some slightly longer lag bolts, re-arrange the hole patterns for the top (larger) bracket. The lower (smaller) bracket does not have much left to grab to. It does not appear to be the load bearing bracket, so I think I could rebuild the void area with the wood epoxy, and weld a small triangle piece to the bottom (where it would "cup" the bottom corner), and put in longer lag bolts.This has made me sick, especially because I knew better. Any thoughts/suggestions to my idea?

I'm sure some people here with experience with a similar repair will chime in, but that's not me. Good luck!

I think the injectable wood epoxy is the way to go. I'd sure hate to have to strip it apart to put new wood into it. Good luck, and hope you can get it fixed.

Looks like bottom had some dryrot even before it happen. I work with epoxy quite a bit. What you might want to start with is "laminate" the damaged wood. Home Depot is selling boat epoxy, what is epoxy in its original form and also packs of fiberglass cloth. 99 cents store sells cheap painting brushes, so get a dozen of them and get plenty of rubber gloves.If you don't have experience with epoxy -start on scraps. You will have 10-15 minutes working time before epoxy starts to set, so you need to know precisely what you are doing. Soak the damaged wood as much as you can. Once the epoxy sets, you can apply first layer of fiberglass over the wood and plan on doing 2-3 layers. Likely you will have to pull some siding away for it.

Kayteg1 wrote:Looks like bottom had some dryrot even before it happen. I work with epoxy quite a bit. What you might want to start with is "laminate" the damaged wood. Home Depot is selling boat epoxy, what is epoxy in its original form and also packs of fiberglass cloth. 99 cents store sells cheap painting brushes, so get a dozen of them and get plenty of rubber gloves.If you don't have experience with epoxy -start on scraps. You will have 10-15 minutes working time before epoxy starts to set, so you need to know precisely what you are doing. Soak the damaged wood as much as you can. Once the epoxy sets, you can apply first layer of fiberglass over the wood and plan on doing 2-3 layers. Likely you will have to pull some siding away for it.Yea, I thought about the fiberglass option, but was afraid I might screw it up. The thin siding seems near impossible to pull back without damaging it because it has been glued to a layer of luan. Your right that bottom bracket was the worst. It gets all of the road water from the rear tires, and the rear skirt area is nothing but exposed OSB! I can't believe they don't seal it up. I'm pretty sure that bottom bracket is just for side-to-side support and not load bearing means they drilled one of the two screws sideways through the bottom piece of OSB:S. Here are a couple of products that I was thinking about using. The product from West Marine appears to have really good reviews, and has been used to rebuild transoms, and plywood floors. Seems like it would work well here.Rot Terminator from Lowe's Git Rot from West Marine

First thing is to forgive yourself. It happens. Second consideration is to call your insurance company. That is why you pay them the big bucks after all.

Jackknifed trailer into TC Jack!! | Good Sam Community

AnEv942
Nomad
Oct 11, 2015
Ouch.
It appears your jacks are Atwoods. New electric jacks are about $1500, brackets ~$150, are not included. As long as the bolt spacing on jack flange (3@ 5 1/2" O/C) you could reuse yours.

As to the holes in camper-likely even the different Atwood brackets offered, buying new, hole spacing would be close (or too close to accomplish much) possibly even changing brands may not yield sufficient hole relocation, but do not really know.

However noted your jacks are mounted extended outward. If it were mine I would seriously consider, at least the one, remounting brackets facing rearward. It would put All the bolts into camper between existing holes. I believe brackets are symmetrical so could be flipped. If not switch both rear jack brackets side for side facing rear ward. Though I'm more of a hardwood dowel and glue person, still need to do what you can to plug old holes and strengthen 2x2.

The lower stabilizing bracket, after fixing area behind as best you can and reinstalling, Id add another pair above couple of inches, rotated 90°, about $25 a pair. They help reduce flexing of main brackets-. Im not sure with the sheet metal clamps about gusseting under camper. My 2 cents

http://panther-rvproducts.com/Atwood-Jacks_c126.htm, just some Atwood options. Several ways could be repaired, if your P/U weighed more might be inclined to suggest more structural repair- simply don't know if warranted for the loads seen?
Bedlam
Moderator
Oct 11, 2015
After fixing the wood with epoxy, you could add aluminum angle on the outside before bolting up the jack to strengthen the corner. If you can reach to the inside of the frame, use through bolts instead of lags. You may even have room inside for large nut plates or fender washers.
Boatycall
Explorer
Oct 11, 2015
TN Sportsman wrote:
If I went with Atwood electric, do you have to re-drill new corner brackets or are they designed to be used with the existing ones?

Each Mfg has it's own mounting setup, so this could work to your advantage - the holes you have in that corner are pretty shot. Redrilling into less damaged wood and remounting would be a good alternative.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Oct 11, 2015
TN Sportsman wrote:

So is there no difference between regular epoxy and the so called "wood epoxy"?

I don't work with those things every day, but if there is a difference, it will not justify huge price difference.
Regular epoxy will laminate rotten/damaged wood just fine.
I was using drywall scraper to get siding off. Takes some feeling as sudden pull can make it crack.
I think that if you don't do good job now, you will hate to come back to it in a year or 2.
Coming to jacks off the ground, it will never happen with front jack.
On my camper the center of gravity is 4 feet behind front jacks, while rear jacks are 11 feet away.
So simple math with 4200 lb, the front jacks hold 1300lb each, rear jack 800lb each. If you lift rear jack off the ground, the weight will be taken by jacks next to it
TN_Sportsman
Explorer
Oct 11, 2015
Kayteg1 wrote:
TN Sportsman wrote:

Seems like it would work well here.

Rot Terminator from Lowe's

Git Rot from West Marine

I started using epoxy being 10 years old (long time ago) in my hobby and at the time the plain version was the only available. '
We learned to make variety of it adding different powders and all kind of tricks.
I am still skeptic about the product what is epoxy with added gypsum or other filler and sold for 10 times of original price.
Or quadruple the price by adding fancy bottle.
So back to your situation, the siding should come off to some degree as it did come off quite easily on my Fleetwood.
Laminate the rotten wood, or you will face replacing the frame sooner or later and it is not going to be pretty.
When epoxy hole fillers do have their place, you need structural reinforcement and only fiberglass can do it without major job of replacement or adding additional members.
On my camper when I had siding pulled out at the bottom, I added 8" triangles made of stainless steel to reinforce the lower corners on front, but that is optional.

I just checked the damage a little closer and tried to lightly pry back the siding from the frame/body. That siding is terribly thin and wants to chip instead of peel back. They must have glued the siding to the luan, then the luan to the frame. What a mess. It appears that the 1x2 or 2x2 on the rear side of the camper that the rear of the bracket attached to is split, but when you screw the lag bolts through it and reach the wood behind it, it feels solid. I don't want to cut any corners, but I don't want to have to re-build the frame and replace siding either. I have noticed when loading and unloading that at times one leg will come off the ground with the other three supporting the camper. This has me wondering how much of a load does this one leg really handle with the other three down?

So is there no difference between regular epoxy and the so called "wood epoxy"?
TN_Sportsman
Explorer
Oct 11, 2015
Boatycall wrote:
I'm only throwing this out there...
That corner is now extremely weak. Not something you want when it's 4 feet in the air being loaded. You can sell your existing jacks for a decent price and get a Stable Lift Jack System

Oasisbob wrote:
First thing is to forgive yourself. It happens. Second consideration is to call your insurance company.
Be forwarned - YEARS ago I did something similar - jacked a boat into my truck. Extremely minor damage, small dent in the bed corner and a broke tail light. They considered it a collision with all the negativity that goes along with being "at fault in a collision".

Besides - aren't you tired of cranking those jacks anyway? Time to treat yourself and go electric.

Well I didn't even purchase insurance for it. For a $3800 camper I figured it wasn't worth it. I was considering going electric for sure, but I don't want to spend $2500 for a Stabil Lift system for this camper. If I went with Atwood electric, do you have to re-drill new corner brackets or are they designed to be used with the existing ones?
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Oct 11, 2015
TN Sportsman wrote:

Seems like it would work well here.

Rot Terminator from Lowe's

Git Rot from West Marine

I started using epoxy being 10 years old (long time ago) in my hobby and at the time the plain version was the only available. '
We learned to make variety of it adding different powders and all kind of tricks.
I am still skeptic about the product what is epoxy with added gypsum or other filler and sold for 10 times of original price.
Or quadruple the price by adding fancy bottle.
So back to your situation, the siding should come off to some degree as it did come off quite easily on my Fleetwood.
Laminate the rotten wood, or you will face replacing the frame sooner or later and it is not going to be pretty.
When epoxy hole fillers do have their place, you need structural reinforcement and only fiberglass can do it without major job of replacement or adding additional members.
On my camper when I had siding pulled out at the bottom, I added 8" triangles made of stainless steel to reinforce the lower corners on front, but that is optional.
Boatycall
Explorer
Oct 11, 2015
I'm only throwing this out there...
That corner is now extremely weak. Not something you want when it's 4 feet in the air being loaded. You can sell your existing jacks for a decent price and get a Stable Lift Jack System

Oasisbob wrote:
First thing is to forgive yourself. It happens. Second consideration is to call your insurance company.
Be forwarned - YEARS ago I did something similar - jacked a boat into my truck. Extremely minor damage, small dent in the bed corner and a broke tail light. They considered it a collision with all the negativity that goes along with being "at fault in a collision".

Besides - aren't you tired of cranking those jacks anyway? Time to treat yourself and go electric.
Oregun
Nomad
Oct 10, 2015
I would fill the upper holes then drill 4 new holes in upper metal bracket
half way between the old holes and put the lag crews into the new locations
where they can attach the jack solid again. Then put some plastic plugs
into old holes to keep water out.
Oasisbob
Explorer
Oct 10, 2015
First thing is to forgive yourself. It happens. Second consideration is to call your insurance company. That is why you pay them the big bucks after all.