Forum Discussion

myredracer's avatar
myredracer
Explorer II
Oct 13, 2016

More ongoing poor workmanship to fix...

Have had our current TT for 2 1/2 years and it has seen 3 seasons of use. There's been quite a few ongoing problems to fix since we've had it, some minor and some serious. Just when I thought I'm about done finding things, I found a couple more yesterday. Pffft....

First pic is a piece of 2x3 under the bed for support. It's dropped 2+ inches at one end due to NO staples or fasteners holding it in place. Not hard to fix, but I have better things to do. I hate OSB in a TT and would re & re it with plywood but it goes under the closet and nightstand either side of the bed. Will probably add additional support pieces.

I pulled a fender skirt off yesterday to recaulk it (more poor workmanship and design) and noticed a ground wire above a tire. It's only about an inch from the tire and has been hitting and rubbing it. You can't see from the angle in the 2nd pic but the insulation is worn through. Easy fix on this one. Oh, and the rust in the pic - I have a lot of paint touchup to do throughout the frame due to being delivered in the winter and salt plus substandard painting at the frame manufacturer.

Someone asked about manufacturer's quality yesterday. It takes just as long to do things correctly as incorrectly as in these couple of examples and on many, many other things. When are they ever going to improve?

  • 93Cobra2771 wrote:
    My bed was sagging in the middle due to thin plywood and a single 1x2 running longways as a "backbone". 1/x2 was mounted flat, so it was failing as a backbone. The 1x2 came unglued/unattached on one end. I ended up making a support under the bed out of 2x4's and now all is good. But seriously, 1/2" plywood for a queen mattress with a single 1x2?
    Right, this is just the problem. It is a design issue, probably influenced by the "bean counters", trying to minimize the amount of material in the trailer. Heck, an aluminum or magnesium support could have been used and that would last a lifetime. It costs a lot more too!

    When I disassembled my '71 Starcraft, there were issues with bracing and material used. That is 40 years ago when materials weren't that expensive and builders were able to use a sufficient amount. So, material expense was on the minds of RV mfg's even that far back. Luckily, I still have a completely boxed frame rail underneath and an aluminum sheet clad under-belly. We won't be getting that anymore unless someone decides to throw away the calculator and is able to pass the cost on to the end user.

    The OP mentioned the paint underneath and I'd suggest to get one of the rust resistant paints like Por15 or that Phospho brand (name escapes me). An alternative is to treat the surface rust with a Phosphoric acid based cleaner, prime with industrial primer, and topcoat with a real durable paint. The second is a real labor intensive deal and working underneath is a messy affair. I've done some steel boat and equipment painting so it isn't scary but I know what's involved. That's why my frame has a fine patina of rust and I don't look at it a lot, lol.
  • My bed was sagging in the middle due to thin plywood and a single 1x2 running longways as a "backbone". 1/x2 was mounted flat, so it was failing as a backbone. The 1x2 came unglued/unattached on one end. I ended up making a support under the bed out of 2x4's and now all is good. But seriously, 1/2" plywood for a queen mattress with a single 1x2?
  • Unfortunately, any process in which human beings are involved is inherently flawed.

    These kind of "mistakes" could be so easily avoided during the build process if the people involved took pride in their work and/or had a culture of quality first instilled at their workplace by the leadership.

    It's not just the RV building business, it's a problem in almost everything we encounter in which we rely on human hands and mindsets.

    About adding plywood: choose your new material wisely. Some new material will have a high moisture content and as it balances out over time it will warp, and if one side is open to the air while the other is "sealed" to another piece it will warp as well.

    I would use MDO to add strength or to just replace any of the pieces you are unhappy with. It will remain stable and it has moisture barrier facing - sometimes one face, sometimes both faces.

    If you use another material, I would seal the open side with a wood finishing product (shellac, urethane) or paint to help keep the moisture content stable.
  • westend wrote:
    Yeah, if that was my bed platform, there would be a piece of 3/4 plywood under my mattress. I've built a few bunks in different trailers, buses, trucks, etc. and 3/4" supported by 2x4 is my defacto standard.

    In your situation, gluing on a sheet of 1/2" plywood may be a good, easy solution. Do you see any Baltic Birch in your area? BB has more plies than conventional construction grade plywood.


    Gluing a piece of plywood to the OSB is a great idea. We have a plywood specialty shop that has a huge range of types and have bought Baltic Birch from them before for making drawers.
  • theres no such thing as quality control in the camping world ,slap it together and out the door.
  • Sad indeed.
    Public what's them light weight and inexpensive...this is the result.
  • Yeah, if that was my bed platform, there would be a piece of 3/4 plywood under my mattress. I've built a few bunks in different trailers, buses, trucks, etc. and 3/4" supported by 2x4 is my defacto standard.

    In your situation, gluing on a sheet of 1/2" plywood may be a good, easy solution. Do you see any Baltic Birch in your area? BB has more plies than conventional construction grade plywood.
  • myredracer wrote:
    Have had our current TT for 2 1/2 years and it has seen 3 seasons of use. There's been quite a few ongoing problems to fix since we've had it, some minor and some serious. Just when I thought I'm about done finding things, I found a couple more yesterday. Pffft....

    First pic is a piece of 2x3 under the bed for support. It's dropped 2+ inches at one end due to NO staples or fasteners holding it in place. Not hard to fix, but I have better things to do. I hate OSB in a TT and would re & re it with plywood but it goes under the closet and nightstand either side of the bed. Will probably add additional support pieces.

    I pulled a fender skirt off yesterday to recaulk it (more poor workmanship and design) and noticed a ground wire above a tire. It's only about an inch from the tire and has been hitting and rubbing it. You can't see from the angle in the 2nd pic but the insulation is worn through. Easy fix on this one. Oh, and the rust in the pic - I have a lot of paint touchup to do throughout the frame due to being delivered in the winter and salt plus substandard painting at the frame manufacturer.

    Someone asked about manufacturer's quality yesterday. It takes just as long to do things correctly as incorrectly as in these couple of examples and on many, many other things. When are they ever going to improve?





    Things done incorrectly are achieved much quicker then doing it correctly the first time...........

    PIECE MILL WORK!!