Here are some more pic of the Reflectix setup
This was part of making the heated tank compartment more dependable. I could not find anyone who could tell me how cold out I can go. So I fixed up the insulation system to what I felt was a whole lot better and installed a air temp sensor inside the compartment to prove to myself how cold I can go. I have tested it down to 19F and the tank compartment is still at 46F as the lowest temp in the middle of the night. The highest was like 86F when the furnace kicked on.
This was part of making the heated tank compartment more dependable. I could not find anyone who could tell me how cold out I can go. So I fixed up the insulation system to what I felt was a whole lot better and installed a air temp sensor inside the compartment to prove to myself how cold I can go. I have tested it down to 19F and the tank compartment is still at 46F as the lowest temp in the middle of the night. The highest was like 86F when the furnace kicked on.
JBarca wrote:I did something similar when I installed pipe insulation and heat tape to all of my plumbing.
I do not have your brand camper, but have dealt with the issue of sagging Coroplast (plastic corrugated sheet) belly cover.
Here is a pic of ours a year after we bought the camper. It had a slight sag in it then and the camper was 4 years old on this pic.
On ours Sunline welded on a 1/16" x 2" flat strip that hung inside I shape main frame rails. They used 1/4" self tapping screws to hold the cover on. See here
I did a qty of work in the enclosed tank compartment and after taking it on and off a few times, the sag became worse.
The structure of this Coroplast is not very strong, however it is light , makes a cover and will not rot. But it does sag over time.
I had to do something with the sag so I make up a few holders to span the width of the frame rails and added fender washer over the screws. Went into Lowes/Home Depot to look at options and that did not cost a small fortune. Found 1/2" x 1 1/2" wide pressure treated wood strips and 3/4" EMT conduit. I used a few stainless steel hose clamps to hold the flat strip to the conduit then bolted the whole thing to the main frame rails. Note: Drill the holes towards the center of the web, not on the outside.
I wanted something more elegant and was going to change it out at a later date, however that time has not yet come and probably won't. They work well. I have them spaced about every 30"
Just passing this along as an option in case someone needs it.
Hope this helps
John
I removed the coroplast completely, and used 1x4 pieces of pine cut to a length that would fit above the bottom of the frame rails crosswise. You gotta put them in at a angle, then straighten them out so they rest on the inside of the bottom beam. On some, there was a hole already from the previous coroplast install so I put a screw thru it into the pine to secure it, but it really isn't needed.
I cut the coroplast into smaller easier to remove sections of 4-6 ft.
And over lapped it front to rear so the wind can't catch it. Everywhere there is a overlap, there is a pine board to screw into, and some in the middle of the bigger sections.
Now there is no sag, and access for repairs etc. is easy
JBarca wrote:
They work well. I have them spaced about every 30"
Just passing this along as an option in case someone needs it.
Hope this helps
Did you then use expanding foam to seal everything back up?
I do not have your brand camper, but have dealt with the issue of sagging Coroplast (plastic corrugated sheet) belly cover.
Here is a pic of ours a year after we bought the camper. It had a slight sag in it then and the camper was 4 years old on this pic.
On ours Sunline welded on a 1/16" x 2" flat strip that hung inside I shape main frame rails. They used 1/4" self tapping screws to hold the cover on. See here
I did a qty of work in the enclosed tank compartment and after taking it on and off a few times, the sag became worse.
The structure of this Coroplast is not very strong, however it is light , makes a cover and will not rot. But it does sag over time.
I had to do something with the sag so I make up a few holders to span the width of the frame rails and added fender washer over the screws. Went into Lowes/Home Depot to look at options and that did not cost a small fortune. Found 1/2" x 1 1/2" wide pressure treated wood strips and 3/4" EMT conduit. I used a few stainless steel hose clamps to hold the flat strip to the conduit then bolted the whole thing to the main frame rails. Note: Drill the holes towards the center of the web, not on the outside.
I wanted something more elegant and was going to change it out at a later date, however that time has not yet come and probably won't. They work well. I have them spaced about every 30"
Just passing this along as an option in case someone needs it.
Hope this helps
John
Here is a pic of ours a year after we bought the camper. It had a slight sag in it then and the camper was 4 years old on this pic.
On ours Sunline welded on a 1/16" x 2" flat strip that hung inside I shape main frame rails. They used 1/4" self tapping screws to hold the cover on. See here
I did a qty of work in the enclosed tank compartment and after taking it on and off a few times, the sag became worse.
The structure of this Coroplast is not very strong, however it is light , makes a cover and will not rot. But it does sag over time.
I had to do something with the sag so I make up a few holders to span the width of the frame rails and added fender washer over the screws. Went into Lowes/Home Depot to look at options and that did not cost a small fortune. Found 1/2" x 1 1/2" wide pressure treated wood strips and 3/4" EMT conduit. I used a few stainless steel hose clamps to hold the flat strip to the conduit then bolted the whole thing to the main frame rails. Note: Drill the holes towards the center of the web, not on the outside.
I wanted something more elegant and was going to change it out at a later date, however that time has not yet come and probably won't. They work well. I have them spaced about every 30"
Just passing this along as an option in case someone needs it.
Hope this helps
John
