PD 4655 LED

Miss wired or broken connection?
Instructions

Unfortunately, I am not using the pendant. Using the harness provided. I've read on a post outside of RV.net that some of the harnesses came wired incorrectly from the factory. They showed pics of the correct harness, mine looks like what was posted. Maybe I'll have to get the pendant.

Thanks.

I had a PD9200, and got the pendant. To be honest, I wouldn't bother getting one. Oh it's fun to play with at first, but the charger is smart enough that you can just let it do its own thing. No need to manually hit boost, even when using a generator for a fast charge. It will do what is needed.

I think functionally a 4600 is going to be the same as a 9200. The 4600 is just a retro-fit version.

I know you want the LED to work, because something is wrong if it doesn't. But first thing I would do is monitor the output voltage over a couple of days. Having a meter connected would make that much easier, and really handy to have at all times. Point being, if it isn't putting out correct voltages, the issue is deeper than just the wizard wiring.

I contacted Progressive Dynamics. They sent me a pdf file showing me some trouble shooting procedures they would like me to try. I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again.

As per PD tech service testing, I am to remove the two reverse polarity fuses and measure the converter input and the output to the battery.

Something is definitely wrong. The converter input is 18.65 volts. The output to the battery is 16.75. (EDIT: Should read input from the battery is 16.75.)

Voltage at the battery is 16.6.

I'm going to borrow my neighbor's high priced voltage meter tomorrow, my cheap meters cannot be correct. I've two low priced meters that measured basically identical numbers.

Still no LED, I'll check the harness continuity tomorrow as well.

Could be a faulty board?

Stay tuned.

Bocifus wrote:
As per PD tech service testing, I am to remove the two reverse polarity fuses and measure the converter input and the output to the battery.

Something is definitely wrong. The converter input is 18.65 volts. The output to the battery is 16.75.

Voltage at the battery is 16.6.

I'm going to borrow my neighbor's high priced voltage meter tomorrow, my cheap meters cannot be correct. I've two low priced meters that measured basically identical numbers.

Still no LED, I'll check the harness continuity tomorrow as well.

Could be a faulty board?

Stay tuned.

Don't know what to make of that, since converter input would be from shore power, and should be 115V AC. Input voltage is not controlled by the converter - it comes from the coach. Are you sure you know how to set the scale on your meter? No offense meant, it's just that I have no way of knowing your electrical skill set.

You might want to get your neighbor involved in using his expensive meter. A $20 meter is more than capable enough to do what you need on this.

Bocifus wrote:
As per PD tech service testing, I am to remove the two reverse polarity fuses and measure the converter input and the output to the battery.

Something is definitely wrong. The converter input is 18.65 volts. The output to the battery is 16.75.

Voltage at the battery is 16.6.

I'm going to borrow my neighbor's high priced voltage meter tomorrow, my cheap meters cannot be correct. I've two low priced meters that measured basically identical numbers.

Still no LED, I'll check the harness continuity tomorrow as well.

Could be a faulty board?

Stay tuned.

If you removed the two fuses and then measured, you should see 0 V at the output to the battery. If the battery is at rest for a short period of time and the surface charge is removed, a fully charged battery should measure 12.6 V.
The input voltage to the converter, as mentioned, should be at utility voltage level or with a generator, in the neighborhood of 120 VAC.
Something is amiss with meter or measurement technique.

westend wrote:
If you removed the two fuses and then measured, you should see 0 V at the output to the battery. If the battery is at rest for a short period of time and the surface charge is removed, a fully charged battery should measure 12.6 V.
The input voltage to the converter, as mentioned, should be at utility voltage level or with a generator, in the neighborhood of 120 VAC.
Something is amiss with meter or measurement technique.

I think they had him remove the polarity fuses, basically as a means of disconnecting the battery, as well as eliminate polarity as an issue. And I assume they had him measure output at the fuse terminal sockets, and not the actual output wires. Just guessing, but that would explain their technique.

bpounds wrote:

westend wrote:
If you removed the two fuses and then measured, you should see 0 V at the output to the battery. If the battery is at rest for a short period of time and the surface charge is removed, a fully charged battery should measure 12.6 V.
The input voltage to the converter, as mentioned, should be at utility voltage level or with a generator, in the neighborhood of 120 VAC.
Something is amiss with meter or measurement technique.

I think they had him remove the polarity fuses, basically as a means of disconnecting the battery, as well as eliminate polarity as an issue. And I assume they had him measure output at the fuse terminal sockets, and not the actual output wires. Just guessing, but that would explain their technique.

Yes, thanks. That would explain a few things.

Edit: Just for my own curiosity, I DL'ed the 4650 troubleshooting guide: PDF file. One interesting thing noted is that the LED indicator light is connected with a plug. Since the failure rate of these converters is very low and the OP's main issue reported is the indicator light, some attention to that connection may be beneficial.

Alright, my neighbor showed up with his fluke multimeter. He's a professional electronic tech. To say my Harbor Freight multimeter is a POS is an understatement. Here are the readings with the reverse polarity fuses pulled and plugged into shore power.
The converter output is 14.3 volts.
The DC from the battery is 12.8 volts.
I'm relieved with these readings. Still need to figure out why no led light. I'm leaning toward the harness wiring being reversed.
Going to report back my findings ti Progressive Dynamics, I'll let you know where this heads. Thanks for all the input. As for me having a Harbor Freight multimeter, I loaned out my good one. The person I loaned it to denies borrowing it. While I don't need a $900 Fluke multimeter, I'll be spending a little more on a decent tool.
Take care.