So the project begins

I'd consider running a pressure treated 2x6 the length of the underside of the wing. That will stiffen up the mounting surfaces of the brackets and distribute the load across more of the wing. Plus the extra 1.5" thickness will gain you more travel on your jacks. Nice job on supporting the camper!

shellbackcva59 wrote:
I'd consider running a pressure treated 2x6 the length of the underside of the wing. That will stiffen up the mounting surfaces of the brackets and distribute the load across more of the wing. Plus the extra 1.5" thickness will gain you more travel on your jacks. Nice job on supporting the camper!

Thank you Shell, to be honest on the supporting Ive seen some pictures on the web and the saw horses that I see many use and I dont want to offend anyone so Ill tread lightly but I'm not putting my 250lbs in there walking around on saw horses. I wouldn't even trust the saw horses with it just in storage. Maybe with the corner mounted jacks its more stable but this thing wiggles all over the place. Ive always been the type that looks at what the worst outcome could be and try to prevent it. In the long run I want to ditch the blocks and build a frame on wheels so I can just roll it under and be done.

I like the idea of running PT all the way down. Thank you, I may use a 1X only because I'm already having an issue with keeping a gap between the wing and the top of the bed with the factory bed top cover on the truck. That will be a thread for another day.

I do want to throw this out there while its on my mind. In the one picture I posted there is an access door that when you open it from inside you can see the wheel well on the drivers side. I have been pondering in my head since yesterday as to what the hell that is for???? Can someone enlighten me on this please.

Thanks again!

Ed

Ed-N-Dani wrote:
In the one picture I posted there is an access door that when you open it from inside you can see the wheel well on the drivers side.

Access to the truck bed, I use it to throw my tackle boxes in the truck bed, you could also use it to access a battery in the truck bed or anything else for that matter.

The access door is just that, gives you access to the inside of the truck bed. I use mine for a variety if things, depending on where I am going. I have used it for storing canned goods, shoe storage, empty cans, extra water hose, elec cables, and the list goes on.

As for the gap between the wing and the top of the bed, I put 4 4"x4"s (about 5-feet long) side to side in the truck bed. One in the front, one in the front and one in the rear of the wheel well and one in the rear. That gives me 3-1/2" more clearance. I have even used 4x4's on top of 2x6's for more height. It does not have to be treated lumber. I have tried every method I have ever heard of, but thus is the simplest, and I can use the 4x4's to support the TC when off the truck.

I think maybe the cement blocks you have under your TC is not a good idea. They are not designed to carry a load, and are subject to cracking and falling apart. If you really want to use them, put wood between each block and what it sits on. That will lessin the likelihood of their splitting.

Personally, I would never consider wood saw horses. I have steel saw horses I have fabricated. If you do a search on the forum, you can find info on using at plywood sheet "X" type camper supports. Easy to make and store.

Wayne

mellow wrote:

Ed-N-Dani wrote:
In the one picture I posted there is an access door that when you open it from inside you can see the wheel well on the drivers side.

Access to the truck bed, I use it to throw my tackle boxes in the truck bed, you could also use it to access a battery in the truck bed or anything else for that matter.

Hmm..that makes sense. I thought it was right at the tire well but I'm sure I'm wrong as it doesn't make any sense for it to be there unless it had a storage purpose.

Thanks
Ed

Thanks RD, that's a good idea. Ill put plywood in between tonight when I get home.

My tentative plan is to attach PT 4x4s to the bottom of the camper to up the gap. Another benefit to this is once I finish remodeling this I'm going to store it at the warehouse which that will give the clearance I need to load and unload it with the fork lift and extensions.

Ed

To tell you how my thoughts are...Hoping not to hurt your feelings.... I wood be thinking about selling that camper and get one with 4 attached electric jack system. I wood try getting one without the wireless remote. A wired remote is better in my opinion.

covered wagon wrote:
To tell you how my thoughts are...Hoping not to hurt your feelings.... I wood be thinking about selling that camper and get one with 4 attached electric jack system. I wood try getting one without the wireless remote. A wired remote is better in my opinion.

Not hurting my feelings but this one is here to stay for a little while at least, hell who knows. Maybe Ill remodel it and be as happy as if I had spent 40k and gained 4 electric corner jacks....I'm not a flashy kinda person so old is good to me as long as it works and has what I need.

Kindest regards
Ed

I would not attach PT 4x4s to the bottom of the camper. Just lay them in the bed, or put them on the ground for use with the forklift. No advantage that I can see mounting them.

I would consider the X type support for TC storage. When loading the TC on the truck, they come apart and store flat on the bed of the truck, on top of the 4x4s.

My preference is to store my TC as close to the bed height as I can to minimize raising and lowering the TC loading or unloading.

I dont want to offend anyone so Ill tread lightly but I'm not putting my 250lbs in there walking around on saw horses. I wouldn't even trust the saw horses with it just in storage

No offense taken, but the sawhorse I custom built have a designed load strength of over 4,000#. That is just the standard heavy duty design you see commonly used under campers. If I put you blind folded in my camper versus yours, you couldn't tell me which one was on sawhorse at truck bed height and the one that was on the concrete blocks. I would not try it on store bought sawhorses though. Plus, I will give your blocks the edge on strength because you do have them turned the right way.

I would mount the two jacks on the drivers side in the exact same position. Just drill the new jacks with the needed bolt pattern. The existing jacks will come out easier than you think because odds are it is only the heads that are so badly rusted. Hit them with some PB Blaster, let soak over night and then pop them loose. Reason for the same location is there should be some extra re-enforcement in the jack locations.

The one on the passenger side you will probably find mounted with carriage bolts under the seat cushions.

I would carefully check the wood in those locations as it seems to have some rot. Say this because of the metal is bowed at the jack points. However, that just may be poor design. Good thing is with the metal siding, easy to roll up the bottom side to repair.

The reason it got wiggly the last two inches is because that is where it lost all contact with the truck bed. As long as it has even a little weight in the bed, it greatly steadies up the camper. Except for not being able to use it when on the jacks, the three legs isn't a problem and almost no less stable than a 4 jack camper during the jacking process. This is because on a 4 jack system with manual jacks, unless you have two people, one of the rear jack almost never has enough weight to provide additional stability. Most of the time, one of the rear jacks will be completely off the ground. Unless of course you are only taking 2 or 3 turns per jack as you go around.

I grew up with a 3 jack, 11' Franklin which we never had problems with. I now have a 4 jack, 8'6" Lance. Both were manual screws jacks. My 4 jack camper wobbles just as much as the 3 jack camper.