Starcraft Travel Star Restoration

[StarryOne]

I just bought a 2004 Star Starcraft Travel Star. Its damaged from water, so I got a good deal on it, and I think between hubby and I we can handle the gutting, Its the rebuilding I'm concerned about. What kind of wood does the floor need? How thick? Pressure treated?? etc. We are picking it up tomorrow and will start the ripping out over the weekend. I appreciate any suggestions! Thank you!

[Billbeat]

Looking good !!

[fozrun]

It looks like you have some aluminum joists running across your trailer. Mine has none in the original floor!

I ended up gluing and then screwing the luan to the bottom of 1" aluminum channel. I had riveted L brackets to the ends. I put down 6 mil supersix sheeting and slipped the luan section under the front of the trailer (I had jacked up the sides).



I then lay the section in then loose laid the 1/2" ply over top and stood on the frame in the section where there is 5' x5.5' unsupported. It flexed quite a bit. I was really disappointed. I woke up the next morning rather sick to my stomach thinking this wasn't going to work and the trailer would be worthless. However I convinced myself that once I riveted the aluminum bars to the sides, glued in the polystyr sheets and screwed the 1/2 ply down to the aluminum channels it might work.

At this stage I dry fitted the styrofoam panels. (Photo needs to be rotated)



And here it is with the channels riveted to the outside, the polysty glued down and the 1/2" ply screwed into the aluminum channels.



And it worked! It stiffened up a lot, and this morning after having the glue dry a bit more it hardly flexes. The floor is now to the top of the aluminum outside frame. I'll add another layer of 1/4" luan ply to the outside walls and then install vinyl plank flooring. I also need to tackle the area up to the door.

However the weather has turned cold so I might not do much more until spring. The front of the trailer is now waterproof- I put on some 2" angle flashing, butyl putty and butyl compound sealant to make sure. It's predicted to rain or snow this evening and Friday so it will be a good test

[Buckeyeclan]

This was my 2nd try at a floor fix. First was using Luan and I still had leaks and it fell apart fast (2 seasons and almost unusable). With this it feels solid under my size 15 feet

[Buckeyeclan]

Ok an attempt to post the photo

[Buckeyeclan]

Sorry for the delay, I've been traveling for work and very busy. My trailer is a 20 ft box and the grid I put in got the space down to just under 12 in on center. Original was 25.5 in on center. I ripped 2X to match the aluminum tube height. 3 full width pieces in each space. 2 against the tube on each side of the space and one in the middle. Made lap joint to carry the load to the . Outer ones glues and screwed to the tube. Add 2 other short pieces to the width of each space and spaced roughly evenly inside the frame rails to help carry the center long piece. This is where most of the strength came from. Once done the floor is very solid, as strong as new if not stronger

One note, I had almost 3000 lbs of available payload on my trailer from the factory, so I was not worried about overloading with the extra lumber or the 4mm vinyl plank flooring I put in it.

[fozrun]

Buckeyeclan wrote:
I replace my entire floor this past spring on a 05 palomino hybrid. Found and repairs lots of leaks found before pad during the process. On mine all of the foam and both the top and under side layers of wood were removed. basically all that was left was the aluminum tube and bottom fabric. I made a grid out of 2x material to get some structure then a layer of 1/4 exterior grade ply under all full height walls and cabinets. Then anther layer of 1/4 ply to carry the traffic. Staggered all the joints. I did not use treated material as there is a chance that it could react to the aluminum. I also used the pink solid foam in the gaps of my grid for insulation. This stuff will not wick moisture like the original stuff. I think I have some pictures and will try to post them when I get a chance

How long was your trailer? After the solid foam, and layers of ply were on the floor did it stiffen up? How far apart were your 2 x grids? 2x4 or 2 x2? I'm at the stage where I have some of my aluminum cross bars down, riveted to the frame. I'm hoping it stiffens up more as I get more sections in and glue down the solid foam and add the 1/2" ply top.

If not I'll have to have some support welded under the trailer. There isn't anything down the middle for the front 5' .

I'll post pics tmw after I get the second section installed. I finished making the front waterproof after rain was threatening this afternoon.

[fozrun]

Buckeyeclan wrote:
I replace my entire floor this past spring on a 05 palomino hybrid. Found and repairs lots of leaks found before pad during the process. On mine all of the foam and both the top and under side layers of wood were removed. basically all that was left was the aluminum tube and bottom fabric. I made a grid out of 2x material to get some structure then a layer of 1/4 exterior grade ply under all full height walls and cabinets. Then anther layer of 1/4 ply to carry the traffic. Staggered all the joints. I did not use treated material as there is a chance that it could react to the aluminum. I also used the pink solid foam in the gaps of my grid for insulation. This stuff will not wick moisture like the original stuff. I think I have some pictures and will try to post them when I get a chance

So, you ended up with a 1/2" on top of the 2" frame? How far apart where your joists? And does it feel solid now?

Today I start putting the luan under the frame at the front and repair the membrane. Opening it up showed that the entrances for the wiring, propane lines and tank water lines were very poorly sealed with expandable foam that has become brittle and cracked.

[Buckeyeclan]

I replace my entire floor this past spring on a 05 palomino hybrid. Found and repairs lots of leaks found before pad during the process. On mine all of the foam and both the top and under side layers of wood were removed. basically all that was left was the aluminum tube and bottom fabric. I made a grid out of 2x material to get some structure then a layer of 1/4 exterior grade ply under all full height walls and cabinets. Then anther layer of 1/4 ply to carry the traffic. Staggered all the joints. I did not use treated material as there is a chance that it could react to the aluminum. I also used the pink solid foam in the gaps of my grid for insulation. This stuff will not wick moisture like the original stuff. I think I have some pictures and will try to post them when I get a chance

[fozrun]

The 1/2" will bring me to the top of the 1.5" aluminum frame that runs around the wall of the camper. The extra top of luan or 1/4 " flooring ply will then fit on top of the outside frame and I'll be able to squeeze it under the gap in the wall. Or at least that is the plan. Time to head out and do more deconstruction. These things are not designed to be taken apart!

[GrandpaKip]

fozrun wrote:
Thanks for the feedback.
I've got a new plan after finding some 1" aluminum channel at Lowe's. I'm going to start a frame at the front and attach new luan (and a waterproof membrane) under the aluminum square channels. Because they are light and not too expensive I'll use them at 12" centers and put them on top of the trailer frame that runs the length of the trailer on both sides. I'll jack up and support the sides at the front if needed to get back to square. I'll then rivet the channel to the outside frame using L brackets. I'll epoxy glue 1" hardwood blocks where the existing bolts go through the 2x4 blocks to the frame under the trailer. I'll then fill in with 1" sheets of insulation. On top of that frame I'll put 1/2 " ply (treated?), install the bolts to the frame and then put another layer of luan on which new vinyl plank flooring will go on. Sounds simple but I'm sure it will be some work and a few problems along the way.

At Lowes I put the channel on the floor and put the 1/2" ply on top, then a sheet of luan and the panels were very rigid with no movement. I'll be adding some weight with the 1/2" ply, but it shouldn't be too much.

Why not just go with 5/8 or 3/4 and be done with it?

[fozrun]

Thanks for the feedback.
I've got a new plan after finding some 1" aluminum channel at Lowe's. I'm going to start a frame at the front and attach new luan (and a waterproof membrane) under the aluminum square channels. Because they are light and not too expensive I'll use them at 12" centers and put them on top of the trailer frame that runs the length of the trailer on both sides. I'll jack up and support the sides at the front if needed to get back to square. I'll then rivet the channel to the outside frame using L brackets. I'll epoxy glue 1" hardwood blocks where the existing bolts go through the 2x4 blocks to the frame under the trailer. I'll then fill in with 1" sheets of insulation. On top of that frame I'll put 1/2 " ply (treated?), install the bolts to the frame and then put another layer of luan on which new vinyl plank flooring will go on. Sounds simple but I'm sure it will be some work and a few problems along the way.

At Lowes I put the channel on the floor and put the 1/2" ply on top, then a sheet of luan and the panels were very rigid with no movement. I'll be adding some weight with the 1/2" ply, but it shouldn't be too much.

[westend]

You shouldn't need any dimensional lumber as big as 2x6. You should have some type of framing that supports the composite panel floor. I'd suggest to remove all that is damaged, including bits underneath walls. You can use an angle grinder or sawzall to ferret out rotten flooring underneath the walls. Support them with small blocking until you install a new floor. I'd suggest to install a conventional framed floor using 2x2's with foam in between floor joists. Sheet the floor with "X" rated plywood, a minimum 5/8" to offer support on a 16" OC floor. Slide your new floor sheeting underneath the walls while removing the support blocks.

[fozrun]

Update

So the bottom luan is saturated as well, I'm almost to the door. I will probably have to remove the coat cupboard and possibly the furnace/heater.

I'm wondering if I should start with putting in floor joists and subfloor in a section at the front and work my way back. Since the luan is rotted under the outside aluminum wall frame how would I go about repairing that and reattaching the waterproof membrane. From the older posts it doesn't look like anyone addresses that. They just attach joists to the outside aluminum rails.

I'm thinking if I can build a frame of some sort with luan attached to the bottom that would give something for the extruded foam insulation to rest on and provide some support. Then I might get away with fewer 2x6 joists, or perhaps use a combination of 2x6 and 2x4's, perhaps with a lap jointed one running down the centerline?

I could post some pictures but at the moment it just looks like a variety of other starcraft trailers with the floor partly ripped out.

[fozrun]

I have a 2006 Starcraft with the same problem, rotted floor at the front of the trailer. It was caused by the bottom seam of the stone guard area opening up (probably was hit by something) and then having the trailer sit in storage for a couple of winters. I've taken out the furniture and the top layer of the wet luan.

I'll now proceed with getting the old foam out. The bottom waterproof membrane has come loose from the front and some of the sides. How would I go about repairing this? When I get the foam out I'm sure the bottom luan is rotted as well. I'm thinking of supporting the sides of the trailer with jacks to get things back to level and add a frame of 2 x6 's attached to the outside aluminum frame.

Any suggestions? I've looked up some old threads but some of the pictures of repairs are no longer available.

Any help appreciated