Stove vent

Our AF990, like AnEv942, has a vent cover the "almost" fits the exhaust vent pipe. When we bought it, enough water had blown in that the fiberglass below the vent had delaminated. I repaired it and have replaced the vent cover 3 times in 4 years. We keep it latched 99% of the time, even then when we get high winds the vent damper flap vibrates very loudly. After a period of time the damper splits down the middle.

I caught the last one before the pieces fell out and duct taped it in until I can find/make a replacement. I'm not spending any money on camco or valtera plastic as I've tried both and they are both a poor "sell it to mikey, he'll buy it" design.

But, it's going to have to warm up a bit before I go outside and figure out a replacement. I, like so many others on the forum would gladly pay a reasonable amount more for something that has a bit of quality in it.

I dunno know-at least on ours, the internal door swings freely inside of the vent housing 'snout' that protrudes thru hole in camper wall. Nothing about it would give the slightest resistance to water entering.
However on ours, indeed water wouldn't get into hood, water getting past outer door would run down inside of wall. The snout of outside cover and the hoods snout are not connected or sealed to each other. Our Ventline is worse than some due to its the small opening style the goes thru wall. Uses same outside cover (and hole thru wall) that is a lot larger.

The internal dampener thingy is what I was referring too

Hello everyone, I have a mod for this. Many may not know this but look under your hood. There might be an internal damper also... so if you didn't know if it was there your going to remove it in my mod.




Now remove that damper and lets work on the outside flapper.
Use a hanger and make a long rod with a bend in it like this.


Next your going to remove the flapper and drill a hole in the middle of the flapper. Then two holes in line with each other through the sheet metal to the front of the hood....take note; this all has to line up.



Now slide the rod through the hood and attach the flapper to the rod and reinstall it.


Go inside and push the rod out to open the flapper. Now, bend a small loop.


Pull the rod back to shut the flapper and use a small clip to keep it closed.


There you go...no more tabs and ladders. It opens and closes from the inside...done deal!!

mkasner wrote:
Your never going to get water into the hood. There is another flapper behind the whole plastic and its at a 45 degree angle upward. You would have to get a hose open the outside flapper wide open and then open the inside flapper in order to get water inside

Not on mine. I can reach up through the fan and touch the plastic flapper. It’s the only thing between the weather interior.

I removed the flapper. It never leaks even driving in rain. You need ventilation when the furnace is on and condensation builds.

If I ever fall asleep and forget to vent anything its good to know the range vent will still let in air.

BTW, the hinge for the flapper was a piece of duct tape. Nice!:)

Your never going to get water into the hood. There is another flapper behind the whole plastic and its at a 45 degree angle upward. You would have to get a hose open the outside flapper wide open and then open the inside flapper in order to get water inside

On the Fabulous Operating Products SAM-1-81 Range Hood Upgrade Kit, not sure quoting a year old review by someone who obviously hadn't researched what they were buying and what would be involved to install representative of the fan.

Installation instructions for the Sam-1 can be downloaded.
http://www.fabulousoperatingproducts.com/installation
Not that I'm buying- but replacing that 'lil plastic propeller with a squirrel cage fan would be nice.

But question was about the exterior flapper door (albeit 3 years ago?). I also used our awning rod to open/close. Primarily due to the tapping noise at night. I converted to a cable push/pull setup several years ago but was a rather involved project. Awning rod simple, or 4' of Ø3/16" rod bent to suit.

ICamel wrote:
This is an interesting and unique modification found on the Northwood RV Owners Association website using magnets to hold the vent door closed until the exhaust fan is turned on.
http://www.nroa2003.com/forum/forum/message-board/modifications/262110-ventline-exhaust-vent-mod
I think this could be done without removing the vent housing from the RV wall exterior.

Well, evidently I "misquoted myself" on doing this without removing the housing. I did remove it and installed the magnets(one inside the housing + one on the outside of the vent flap) on each side.
Works like a charm!

ICamel wrote:
This is an interesting and unique modification found on the Northwood RV Owners Association website using magnets to hold the vent door closed until the exhaust fan is turned on.
http://www.nroa2003.com/forum/forum/message-board/modifications/262110-ventline-exhaust-vent-mod
I think this could be done without removing the vent housing from the RV wall exterior.

Can't get into that site without registering first. I considered some kind of small magnets with electromagnets that override those when the fan runs but decided on a simpler approach (scroll past the water pump switch mod):
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24397265.cfm