Those darn Phantom loads.

[rbpru]

I was curious just how much power was being use when everything in the TT was “shut off”. So I turned everything off and put and Ammeter in the battery circuit.

I measured between 1/4 and 1/3 of an amp, between 3 and 4 watts. All those little power beasties we talk about that are silently doing their job monitoring or waiting for you to turn them on.

I just though some of the new comers and future boondockers would like to know.

[Supereri73]

SoundGuy wrote:

Supereri73 wrote:
So you realized the confusion was already cleared up, but you still felt it necessary to reply in such a condescending manner? Ok, check. Got it.

"Realized the confusion" after a lot of unnecessary head scratching trying to figure out what you were talking about! :h Apparently what you're saying is that because you can't be bothered to read a discussion in it's entirety and understand what really has been said you're fine with posting a reply anyway that makes no sense at all - "I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny." - leaving the rest of us who have read what was actually previously posted completely confused as to how the heck you came up with such an erroneous conclusion. :h And now you're chastising me?! :@ Good grief. :R

Ok, check. Got it. :R

Interesting. So in the 7 minutes it took me to post my reply (to my own post) you spent that time scratching your head and THEN 4+ hours later replied? If the words of a random internet stranger have such power over you then that's scary.

I wouldn't say I'm chastising you as much as pointing out what a pompous and condescending person you sound like. Maybe, you can check your schematic and put a switch on that?

[westend]

bobndot wrote:
Battery shut off disconnect is the simple solution during storage .
I camp w/o any hookups . To save my batteries while at camp or during storage........
* I pulled the fuse on the detectors. I use two portable units.
* Installed a toggle switch on the radio. Kills the clock/memory.
* Disconnected the 12v. TV power plug which was always in a standby mode.
* Made sure my roof vent fans (I have 2) were dead when turned off.
Some roof vent fans (not all brands/models) always have a slight draw while off.

My only .35 amp draw while camping is my fridge while running on gas.

During storage the fridge is off... zero draw on the trailer. Its all dead with the battery still hooked up.

one of the members did this workup.
Current measured with battery at 12.68 volts.

- CO & LPG detectors together draw .061 amps (0.77 watts)
- Norcold 6 CF running on LPG = .609 amps (8.5 watts)
- Forced air heater running = 3.49 amps (44.25 watts) 20k btu unit
- Dual bulb florescent fixture = 2.15 amps (27.25 watts)
- One overhead incandescent bulb = 1.45 amps (18.38 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan on max speed = 3.99 amps (50.6 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan on 1/2 speed = 1.15 amps (14.57 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan OFF = 0.049 amps (0.62 watts)
- Cheapo Bathroom ceiling vent fan = 1.24 amps (15.71 watts)
- TV Antenna Amplifier = .041 amps (0.52 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan on HI = 1.32 amps (16.73 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan on LOW = .622 amps (7.89 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan light = 1.38 amps (17.49 watts)
- Stereo/DVD player with power off = .057 amps (0.72 watts)
- Stero on FM at mid volume = 1.1 amps (14.94 watts)
- 'Go Power' 300 watt PSW inverter 'ON' mode = .23 amps (2.9 watts)

Thanks Bob,
This is a really good post. I'd say the measurements for all of the 12V devices listed are real close to what all of us have, at least the few I measured were all in that same range. Good info on the fans drawing power, that's a new one for me.

[SoundGuy]

Supereri73 wrote:
So you realized the confusion was already cleared up, but you still felt it necessary to reply in such a condescending manner? Ok, check. Got it.

"Realized the confusion" after a lot of unnecessary head scratching trying to figure out what you were talking about! :h Apparently what you're saying is that because you can't be bothered to read a discussion in it's entirety and understand what really has been said you're fine with posting a reply anyway that makes no sense at all - "I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny." - leaving the rest of us who have read what was actually previously posted completely confused as to how the heck you came up with such an erroneous conclusion. :h And now you're chastising me?! :@ Good grief. :R

Ok, check. Got it. :R

[coolbreeze01]

As mentioned and used by many, the battery disconnect switches that come OE on many RV's, actually work.

[Supereri73]

SoundGuy wrote:

Supereri73 wrote:
Jeez, tough crowd. The confusion was already cleared up before the condescending post. I said "Uh hmmm. Not as funny as I thought. There is an actual anti-condensation feature that uses a heater.... ". But, some just refuse to read the words right in front of them. :S

Oh I read your retraction alright ... but the point is none of this would have come up if you'd just taken the time to read the prior discussion in it's entirety, including links that provided all the information needed to clearly understand what was being discussed, before hitting the keyboard in response. Seems to be a common ailment here on the forums. :S

So you realized the confusion was already cleared up, but you still felt it necessary to reply in such a condescending manner? Ok, check. Got it.

[SoundGuy]

Supereri73 wrote:
Jeez, tough crowd. The confusion was already cleared up before the condescending post. I said "Uh hmmm. Not as funny as I thought. There is an actual anti-condensation feature that uses a heater.... ". But, some just refuse to read the words right in front of them. :S

Oh I read your retraction alright ... but the point is none of this would have come up if you'd just taken the time to read the prior discussion in it's entirety, including links that provided all the information needed to clearly understand what was being discussed, before hitting the keyboard in response. Seems to be a common ailment here on the forums. :S

[2112]

Supereri73 wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:

There shouldn't be any confusion - some just refuse to read the words right in front of them. :S In my own previous post I included a link to 2 pics of this same mod and the text included says quite clearly - "Running to the light switch are two red wires - the lighter gauge wire feeds the light, the heavier gauge feeds the climate control heating element. I cut this heavier wire and wired it through a switch so I can turn power off to the heating element, thereby reducing unnecessary draw on the battery." How much clearer could that be? :h

Jeez, tough crowd.

Yea, I had to block him. First time I had the need but I'm happy the option is available.

[rbpru]

I am not sure about RV refrigerators but home units have several heating elements.

They have an anti-sweat heater, an anti-freeze heater on the ice maker water line, some ice makers have heaters to free the cubes and the frost free models have a heater in the freezer compartment.

Our RV fridge has none of these.

[BobsYourUncle]

Supereri73 wrote:

Supereri73 wrote:

Tvov wrote:
A "door heater" for a refrig? I have to admit I had never heard of that!

I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny.

Uh hmmm. Not as funny as I thought. There is an actual anti-condensation feature that uses a heater....

I had one on my last TT. There as a little slide switch to turn it on or off located between the fridge and freezer doors.
It was a Dometic, I think the model was RM2611, IIRC
I never could figure out which way was on and which way was off....

[Supereri73]

SoundGuy wrote:

Tvov wrote:
A "door heater" for a refrig? I have to admit I had never heard of that!

Supereri73 wrote:
I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny.

ADK Camper wrote:
In my original post I said:

in my refrigerator model the wire carrying power to the door heater ran thorough the inside light housing. I cut the wire, installed a switch in series, and mounted it in the housing.

It is in fact not the same wire that carries power to the refrigerator light. A separate wire goes to the heater. It just happens to be routed through the light housing making it a very convenient point to access. Hope this clears up any confusion.

There shouldn't be any confusion - some just refuse to read the words right in front of them. :S In my own previous post I included a link to 2 pics of this same mod and the text included says quite clearly - "Running to the light switch are two red wires - the lighter gauge wire feeds the light, the heavier gauge feeds the climate control heating element. I cut this heavier wire and wired it through a switch so I can turn power off to the heating element, thereby reducing unnecessary draw on the battery." How much clearer could that be? :h

Jeez, tough crowd. The confusion was already cleared up before the condescending post. I said "Uh hmmm. Not as funny as I thought. There is an actual anti-condensation feature that uses a heater.... ". But, some just refuse to read the words right in front of them. :S

Anyway, happy trails.

[SoundGuy]

Tvov wrote:
A "door heater" for a refrig? I have to admit I had never heard of that!

Supereri73 wrote:
I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny.

ADK Camper wrote:
In my original post I said:

in my refrigerator model the wire carrying power to the door heater ran thorough the inside light housing. I cut the wire, installed a switch in series, and mounted it in the housing.

It is in fact not the same wire that carries power to the refrigerator light. A separate wire goes to the heater. It just happens to be routed through the light housing making it a very convenient point to access. Hope this clears up any confusion.

There shouldn't be any confusion - some just refuse to read the words right in front of them. :S In my own previous post I included a link to 2 pics of this same mod and the text included says quite clearly - "Running to the light switch are two red wires - the lighter gauge wire feeds the light, the heavier gauge feeds the climate control heating element. I cut this heavier wire and wired it through a switch so I can turn power off to the heating element, thereby reducing unnecessary draw on the battery." How much clearer could that be? :h

[ADK_Camper]

Supereri73 wrote:

Tvov wrote:
A "door heater" for a refrig? I have to admit I had never heard of that!

I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny.

In my original post I said:

in my refrigerator model the wire carrying power to the door heater ran thorough the inside light housing. I cut the wire, installed a switch in series, and mounted it in the housing.

It is in fact not the same wire that carries power to the refrigerator light. A separate wire goes to the heater. It just happens to be routed through the light housing making it a very convenient point to access. Hope this clears up any confusion.

[bobndot]

Battery shut off disconnect is the simple solution during storage .
I camp w/o any hookups . To save my batteries while at camp or during storage........
* I pulled the fuse on the detectors. I use two portable units.
* Installed a toggle switch on the radio. Kills the clock/memory.
* Disconnected the 12v. TV power plug which was always in a standby mode.
* Made sure my roof vent fans (I have 2) were dead when turned off.
Some roof vent fans (not all brands/models) always have a slight draw while off.

My only .35 amp draw while camping is my fridge while running on gas.

During storage the fridge is off... zero draw on the trailer. Its all dead with the battery still hooked up.

one of the members did this workup.
Current measured with battery at 12.68 volts.

- CO & LPG detectors together draw .061 amps (0.77 watts)
- Norcold 6 CF running on LPG = .609 amps (8.5 watts)
- Forced air heater running = 3.49 amps (44.25 watts) 20k btu unit
- Dual bulb florescent fixture = 2.15 amps (27.25 watts)
- One overhead incandescent bulb = 1.45 amps (18.38 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan on max speed = 3.99 amps (50.6 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan on 1/2 speed = 1.15 amps (14.57 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan OFF = 0.049 amps (0.62 watts)
- Cheapo Bathroom ceiling vent fan = 1.24 amps (15.71 watts)
- TV Antenna Amplifier = .041 amps (0.52 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan on HI = 1.32 amps (16.73 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan on LOW = .622 amps (7.89 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan light = 1.38 amps (17.49 watts)
- Stereo/DVD player with power off = .057 amps (0.72 watts)
- Stero on FM at mid volume = 1.1 amps (14.94 watts)
- 'Go Power' 300 watt PSW inverter 'ON' mode = .23 amps (2.9 watts)

[Supereri73]

Supereri73 wrote:

Tvov wrote:
A "door heater" for a refrig? I have to admit I had never heard of that!

I too have never heard the interior frig light referred to as the door heater... Funny.

Uh hmmm. Not as funny as I thought. There is an actual anti-condensation feature that uses a heater....