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Tie down alternatives...

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
I like thinking outside the box and I had a brain fart earlier today..

Instead of using HappyJac turnbuckles or Fast Guns, why not use ratchet straps instead?

Certainly easier to put on and off, ratchet straps (even the 1" wide ones) are rated for 2000 pounds and the HD ones are 4000 pounds.

Easy to adjust the tension and easy to store but the big plus is price.

You can buy 4 Heavy Duty 4000 pound rated ratchet tie downs for the price of one Fast Gun.

I think I'm going to give them a shot this year...

Opinions please. Am I crazy?
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB
34 REPLIES 34

bka0721
Explorer II
Explorer II
Using the information that if it worked well back in the day we should consider that as a viable alternative? Newer is always better? Sort of like the original cars were maneuvered without a steering wheel. They were turned by using a โ€œTillerโ€ type of guidance device. Certainly a steering wheel is better, or โ€œyokeโ€ style wheel in an F1 Race Car. Nope, I am not going back to the way we used to do it.

As for tie down straps, there are many issues when these are contemplated, most of the points have already been stated, like impacts by UV Rays. The other would be the constant cycling of Slack/taunt over and over of the straps. The simple orange straps you buy at Home Depot are not even in that realm of capabilities. Unfortunately that is what is often is used, as we see posted in this forum; โ€œWell I only used them to get the TC home!โ€ These straps are often used due to price, availability and the fact the user does not know any better.

When we see Truck Campers transported with these under strength rated โ€œOrangeโ€ tie down straps I ask one simple question of the poster; โ€œWould you tie down a Pickup Truck on a trailer with that type of strap?โ€ The answer is typically a resounding; โ€œWell . . .no.โ€ My point is, is that most TCs are just as heavy as a small or medium side truck, move around and bounce, as well as slide as if on ball bearings/or tires, which in turn puts stress on these tie down points. The often position is that new TC owners/or misinformed users donโ€™t think of their tie down straps on a Truck Camper in these perspectives. Then when you put the exponential weight factors on each strap at each tie down point, you will need to have at least a 2 inch or wider strap for use. So ask yourself, as you are attaching your Truck Camper with that Orange or Green, even Camouflaged tie down strap; โ€œWould I strap my F250 down to a trailer with this tie down strap, with the truckโ€™s transmission in neutral and no parking brake engaged?โ€

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b
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SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
northshore wrote:
Must have been watching You Tube with that brain fart, You tube has vids on using ratchet straps for tie downs.


Never looked candidly. I will however...
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

northshore
Explorer
Explorer
Must have been watching You Tube with that brain fart, You tube has vids on using ratchet straps for tie downs.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
GeoBoy wrote:
Flip, you need a rubber mat!!;)


Don't know. Neither of my TC's have ever moved and I do some serious off camber off roading. I don't go fast but I do go...

The Rhino Lining is a spray on rubber liner. Seems to do the job.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
Flip, you need a rubber mat!!;)

lakeside013104
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
I have a friend that has been using ratchet straps for over ten years, and never has had an issue.

I too had TCs back in the day, as early as 1969. As has been posted, a 5/16 chain, S-hooks and a turnbuckle was all that was used. The only people I know of that had issues, were those that did not loosen the rear tie downs while driving too fast on rutted roads. Today's spring loaded tie downs would lesson the issue but not solve it.

Personally, I really don't think folks understand what the tie downs are supposed to do. They are to prevent the TC from vibrating forward or rearward as you go down the road. They do provide a little resistance going up a steep hill or driveway. Very few people have really looked at the tie down point on TCs. Some are super secure, and some only 5/16 eyebolt through a 2x2.

I you are really concerned with the movement of รฝour TC, install a 1/4", or thicker, rubber mat in the bed of your truck. It is second best to velcro. A polished surface on the rubber mat does not provide as good friction as the mat finish. Anything less than 1/4" does not conform as well to the TC and tru?k bed.

I prefer the horse stall mats, 1/2" or 3/4" thick. I cut mine in 12" or 18" strips to make them easier to load and unload. It also allows me to leave my 5th wheel rails in the bed. Over the years I have tried every thing in the bed of the truck, and I keep going back to the Horse mat.

Fact is, in my opinion, all of the tie down methods work just fine. It is just a matter of preference. Many are over kill and some are very spendy. Some are simply for aesthetics. Bling-bling and bragging rights are a strong motivator. If you enter competitions for loading and unloading your TC, the turnbuckle probably is not your best choice.

Wayne


Thanks for the input Wayne. I don't have a mat but I do have a spray in Rhino Liner.

I'm going to switch to ratchet straps this season (was planning on it all along anyway). My HappyJac screw in tie downs are getting pretty cobbly.


I can see why the thicker rubber mats in the truck bed would be a good addition.

A person with doubt about the advantage a rubber mat offers could observe that advantage with a very simple test.

Place a heavy (40# to 60#) weighted metal or wooded box or similar item in the bed of a truck with no mat. Push that box across the truck bed. Very easy to do.

Repeat the same box push test across a rubber mat placed in the truck bed. Much more effort required to complete the same movement.

Lakeside

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
Reddog1 wrote:
I have a friend that has been using ratchet straps for over ten years, and never has had an issue.

I too had TCs back in the day, as early as 1969. As has been posted, a 5/16 chain, S-hooks and a turnbuckle was all that was used. The only people I know of that had issues, were those that did not loosen the rear tie downs while driving too fast on rutted roads. Today's spring loaded tie downs would lesson the issue but not solve it.

Personally, I really don't think folks understand what the tie downs are supposed to do. They are to prevent the TC from vibrating forward or rearward as you go down the road. They do provide a little resistance going up a steep hill or driveway. Very few people have really looked at the tie down point on TCs. Some are super secure, and some only 5/16 eyebolt through a 2x2.

I you are really concerned with the movement of รฝour TC, install a 1/4", or thicker, rubber mat in the bed of your truck. It is second best to velcro. A polished surface on the rubber mat does not provide as good friction as the mat finish. Anything less than 1/4" does not conform as well to the TC and tru?k bed.

I prefer the horse stall mats, 1/2" or 3/4" thick. I cut mine in 12" or 18" strips to make them easier to load and unload. It also allows me to leave my 5th wheel rails in the bed. Over the years I have tried every thing in the bed of the truck, and I keep going back to the Horse mat.

Fact is, in my opinion, all of the tie down methods work just fine. It is just a matter of preference. Many are over kill and some are very spendy. Some are simply for aesthetics. Bling-bling and bragging rights are a strong motivator. If you enter competitions for loading and unloading your TC, the turnbuckle probably is not your best choice.

Wayne


Thanks for the input Wayne. I don't have a mat but I do have a spray in Rhino Liner.

I'm going to switch to ratchet straps this season (was planning on it all along anyway). My HappyJac screw in tie downs are getting pretty cobbly.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a friend that has been using ratchet straps for over ten years, and never has had an issue.

I too had TCs back in the day, as early as 1969. As has been posted, a 5/16 chain, S-hooks and a turnbuckle was all that was used. The only people I know of that had issues, were those that did not loosen the rear tie downs while driving too fast on rutted roads. Today's spring loaded tie downs would lesson the issue but not solve it.

Personally, I really don't think folks understand what the tie downs are supposed to do. They are to prevent the TC from vibrating forward or rearward as you go down the road. They do provide a little resistance going up a steep hill or driveway. Very few people have really looked at the tie down point on TCs. Some are super secure, and some only 5/16 eyebolt through a 2x2.

I you are really concerned with the movement of รฝour TC, install a 1/4", or thicker, rubber mat in the bed of your truck. It is second best to velcro. A polished surface on the rubber mat does not provide as good friction as the mat finish. Anything less than 1/4" does not conform as well to the TC and tru?k bed.

I prefer the horse stall mats, 1/2" or 3/4" thick. I cut mine in 12" or 18" strips to make them easier to load and unload. It also allows me to leave my 5th wheel rails in the bed. Over the years I have tried every thing in the bed of the truck, and I keep going back to the Horse mat.

Fact is, in my opinion, all of the tie down methods work just fine. It is just a matter of preference. Many are over kill and some are very spendy. Some are simply for aesthetics. Bling-bling and bragging rights are a strong motivator. If you enter competitions for loading and unloading your TC, the turnbuckle probably is not your best choice.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
When you start adding springs and S-hooks to the ratchet strap, it is no longer "just as easy" or "simpler" than fastguns.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
Jack Hart wrote:
Four Wheel Campers use eye bolts in the truck bed and camper interior access turnbuckles to mount the camper directly to the truck bed without any external tie down brackets, springs or levers. Bolting directly to the truck bed obviously works for them.


I know they do and 4 wheel recommends that they do the install or an authorized dealer do it. We happen to have a dealer here in Michigan, in Muskegon.

Been around a long time and they are rough service unitts to boot. I'd love to own one.... when I hit the lottery...
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Jack_Hart
Explorer II
Explorer II
Four Wheel Campers use eye bolts in the truck bed and camper interior access turnbuckles to mount the camper directly to the truck bed without any external tie down brackets, springs or levers. Bolting directly to the truck bed obviously works for them.

lakeside013104
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
I'll let it slide but next time you have to eat mushrooms...lol


Mushrooms...your bad. And I was going to bring you a barrel of Maine taters and a boat load of Maine lobster. That will have to wait for a rainy day.

And I would have ratchet straped them on to the side of the TC.

Lakeside

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
When I was a kid, the guy down the way had a TC in the bed of his Chevy 3/4 ton and he had no external tie down chain and turnbuckles at all. What he did was modify the camper floor and BOLT the camper directly to the truck bed. I remember it was a pretty neat set up. He even removed the outer eyebolts. Never knew him to have any issues.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

burningman
Explorer II
Explorer II
If I suggested velcro on the bottom of the camper I'd be called crazy, but I bet it wouldn't slip out of place and I doubt you'd even be able to get it off the truck!
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