Trailer stability while parked

[Dog_Trainer]

We had a great maiden voyage and made it to fL. we are now parked and using our new TT for the 1st time. It is a triple slide 30' long.
Our biggest disappointment is the bounce we feel when someone walks through the TT even our small dog causes a lot of bounce.
I am on a cement pad the front of the trailer is only about 15" off the ground when level. I have the electric stabilizers and have tried putting a little more pressure on them. I have an X chock on 1 side and standard chocks on the other.
I think this is quite comnmon and so just hoping to get info on products and techniques to help eliminate this.

[PawPaw_n_Gram]

With most stabilizer systems, the majority of the weight of the trailer rest on the springs.

Springs designed to provide up/ down and some side to side flex.

You have to get weight off the springs.

Ever looked at the automated lever jack systems on Class A or now some fiver's.

The jacks which carry the most weight are always mounted close to the rig wheels/ springs. And when in operation raise the frame enough to get much of the weight off the springs.

That's were TT need help to eliminate movement, not on the ends of the frame.

[hawkeye-08]

Our previous trailer had bounce. Two things we did to mostly eliminate it. The first was wheel chocks (homemade from 4x4 and ready rod). This helped alot, especially when we were up on boards to level trailer. We also added the screw jacks under the frame in front of axles or behind axles or both, depending on situation.

The wheel chocks worked well and after making Dad a set, he did not put down his stabilizers after that.. He camps by himself alot so only he is moving around.

On our current trailer, the stabilizers and wheel chocks are enough, no screw jacks needed. I like the Arctic Fox frame, it is well built.

[oilfieldman81]

You have the option to bolt it or weld it. Welding it to the frame would be the best option!

[Halmfamily]

oilfieldman81 wrote:
TRAILER SUPPORT APPARATUS WITH ENHANCED STABILITY
Have you ever been inside your travel trailer when a storms comes thru or during those incredibly windy days? Let me tell you, I have, and it almost feels as if you’re white water rafting. Now that you have that image in your head I can explain to you what I have come up with. I have created a Trailer Support Apparatus with Enhanced Stability or TSAWES(pronounced saws). Yes, I know you may be thinking that there are things already out there that are designed to help with this issue, however this is how mine differs from others. Ordinary jacks that come with any trailer, whether it be manual, electric or hydraulic just don’t stabilize your camper. TSAWES extends the jacks about a foot wider that the width of the trailer, therefore avoiding any “high center of gravity” issues. High center of gravity is when there is more length to an object than there is width, thus creating an unstable area. Take some time and observe your trailer. How high is it? Now look at the width of where the jacks are placed under it. My design extends the jacks about a foot wider on each side than the width of the trailer relieving the extra weight on top and reducing the chances of the trailer tipping over significantly. 62/138,228 (patent pending)

Interesting idea. I assume they are welded to the frame and that they retract somehow for travel.

[oilfieldman81]

TRAILER SUPPORT APPARATUS WITH ENHANCED STABILITY
Have you ever been inside your travel trailer when a storms comes thru or during those incredibly windy days? Let me tell you, I have, and it almost feels as if you’re white water rafting. Now that you have that image in your head I can explain to you what I have come up with. I have created a Trailer Support Apparatus with Enhanced Stability or TSAWES(pronounced saws). Yes, I know you may be thinking that there are things already out there that are designed to help with this issue, however this is how mine differs from others. Ordinary jacks that come with any trailer, whether it be manual, electric or hydraulic just don’t stabilize your camper. TSAWES extends the jacks about a foot wider that the width of the trailer, therefore avoiding any “high center of gravity” issues. High center of gravity is when there is more length to an object than there is width, thus creating an unstable area. Take some time and observe your trailer. How high is it? Now look at the width of where the jacks are placed under it. My design extends the jacks about a foot wider on each side than the width of the trailer relieving the extra weight on top and reducing the chances of the trailer tipping over significantly. 62/138,280 (patent pending)

[Nvr2loud]

Zeppe807 wrote:

camp-n-family wrote:
Bounce or wiggle? The stabilizers when set firmly should take out the bounce. You may want to consider a 3rd set in the middle close to the axles. Stacking blocks under the jacks to shorten the extension can help too. The longer they extend the less stable they become.

Our long tt didn't bounce much but it did wiggle with any movement inside. Solved it by adding JT Strongarms to the stabilizers, all 4 corners. No more wiggle or bounce. Best investment/ mod so far.

I've been thinking about a third set for my 29ft trailer, has anyone done this that can report back the results? Is it worth the hassle?

Thanks,
Joe Zeppe

Edit:
I was too quick to ask, and now I see the above response. 😮

I have two sets in the middle, one in front of the wheels and one behind the wheels (less then 1 foot away) and my trailer bounce is practically gone.

I was using X-Chocks but they were a PITA and didn't help as much as I wanted them to.

[Dog_Trainer]

Update:
I found Scissor jack stabilizers at Harbor Freight They extend out to just over 23 "
I put them Under the frame at each Axle with 2 4x4x8" stacked. This took the majority of the shake out and the wiggle is much better. I will permanently install them this spring. I paid 32.99 each for them they have a 5,000 lb capacity I do not think I need that capacity but I wanted the stronger design so they are more stable when extended out.

[LarryJM]

myredracer wrote:
We bought a set of the aluminum stacking jacks but they only extend to 17" above the ground. Our frame is 24" above the ground so it means having to carry around a bunch of blocks (like 16 pieces of 6x6) of some sort to put under them. These jacks have a lot of lateral movement and will only help vertical movement. We may end up never using these things unless I can come up with something simple and lightweight to put under them.

One solution for the height is to buy 4 sets of the Lynx blocks and caps and use those to increase the jack stand height. You wouldn't even have to take them out of the nylon bags. Also, these can double as "ramps" to work on your vehicles. Yes a little bulky, but light weight. Another option would to buy two sets of the "Race Ramp" wheel cribs to use as bases for the jack stnads. As far as movement, the key to using these jackstands is that you have to get a good load on them which you can not do with just using the screw on them. I found about 500lbs of upward support takes all movement even side to side out of them. The exact placement and how much load is needed can vary between trailers and takes some experimenting until you find the best setup. An electric tongue jack is almost a must for doing this.

We also bought one pair of BAL stabilizer braces. I expect these to help a lot. Am only going to use a pair side to side at the rear of our 29' TT and see how they do. We have a set of X-chocks which do a pretty good job of minimizing fore/aft movement. I will wait and see if a set for the front is needed. As mentioned above, the price of the BAL Lock Arm braces is much better than others.

As I previously stated trying to stabilize longer trailers only at the corners is going to be a VERY POOR solution since it does nothing to reduce the frame span (i.e. frame flex) and getting enough load on them at those large distances from the axles risks "tweaking the frame". Also, with you exceptionally high frame height you are still going to need additional height so the stabilizers at the corners aren't extended so much.

Some frames flex a lot more than others and it can help to use some sort of jacks ahead of the axles (under the frame). If you can get enough vertical height out of the jacks, a set also at each of the 4 corners will definitely help a lot.

I disagree that putting any sort of additional support at the corners is going to help ... that's just too far from the axles to be effective.

If you have a set of electric stab. jacks, have someone walk up and down the entry stairs and watch how much the jacks flex. You may be surprised at the amount of flex in these things and it may help decide what you can do to reduce movement. A forum member re-enforced his and apparently helps quite a bit. I am thinking of doing something similar.

That is one of the major shortcomings of almost all of the stabilizer jack configurations normally found on TTs as OEM equipment

Some aren't bothered by the movement and just accept it but some, like myself find it really annoying.

Larry

[goducks10]

I installed this on our last TT. I welded the bracket to the spring equalizer bracket. Fabed some screw jacks from scrap metal. Took the tire bounce out.

[beemerphile1]

Your stabilizers are probably only at the corners. Add another jack on each side under the frame and near the axles.

Camco stack jack

[myredracer]

We bought a set of the aluminum stacking jacks but they only extend to 17" above the ground. Our frame is 24" above the ground so it means having to carry around a bunch of blocks (like 16 pieces of 6x6) of some sort to put under them. These jacks have a lot of lateral movement and will only help vertical movement. We may end up never using these things unless I can come up with something simple and lightweight to put under them.

We also bought one pair of BAL stabilizer braces. I expect these to help a lot. Am only going to use a pair side to side at the rear of our 29' TT and see how they do. We have a set of X-chocks which do a pretty good job of minimizing fore/aft movement. I will wait and see if a set for the front is needed. As mentioned above, the price of the BAL Lock Arm braces is much better than others.

Some frames flex a lot more than others and it can help to use some sort of jacks ahead of the axles (under the frame). If you can get enough vertical height out of the jacks, a set also at each of the 4 corners will definitely help a lot.

If you have a set of electric stab. jacks, have someone walk up and down the entry stairs and watch how much the jacks flex. You may be surprised at the amount of flex in these things and it may help decide what you can do to reduce movement. A forum member re-enforced his and apparently helps quite a bit. I am thinking of doing something similar.

Some aren't bothered by the movement and just accept it but some, like myself find it really annoying.

[Zeppe807]

camp-n-family wrote:
Bounce or wiggle? The stabilizers when set firmly should take out the bounce. You may want to consider a 3rd set in the middle close to the axles. Stacking blocks under the jacks to shorten the extension can help too. The longer they extend the less stable they become.

Our long tt didn't bounce much but it did wiggle with any movement inside. Solved it by adding JT Strongarms to the stabilizers, all 4 corners. No more wiggle or bounce. Best investment/ mod so far.

I've been thinking about a third set for my 29ft trailer, has anyone done this that can report back the results? Is it worth the hassle?

Thanks,
Joe Zeppe

Edit:
I was too quick to ask, and now I see the above response. 😮

[Brokentone]

I solve the fore and aft movement by backing against chocks behind the wheels, set brake then place chocks in front of the wheels, release brake. If you can move any of the chocks they are not tight enough.
Cheap and nothing else to carry, works for me.

Bob

[LarryJM]

hawkeye-08 wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
Had the same problem when I went to the longer 35 ft trailer. You need to determine if the movement is front to back, the X Chocks will help with that, or up and down, the X Chocks will do nothing for that. A scissor jack under the axle works wonders. I chased this problem for some time and tried an old scissor jack I had in the garage and that got rid of most of the movement. I'd try that first or even experiment with a bottle jack if you have one on hand. Don't put too much pressure on the axle, it doesn't take much.

Our last trailer had some bounce/wiggle. The wheel chocks and extra screw jacks took care of it. I would not put jacks under the axles since that would only remove tire wiggle/bounce, but leave the suspension wiggle/bounce. I put my jacks on the frame either just in front of front axle spring hanger or just behind rear axle spring hanger and had no more problems..

Set of 4 cheap screw jacks from Walmart.

Congrats you have IMO described the best solution one can get and have actually again IMO correctly specified where that support should go. I would only add that I have found for my 31' trailer the best locations are about 4 to 6 feet in front and to the rear of each axle.

Trying to get good stability with only support at the corners is IMO a VERY POOR solution since it does absolutely nothing or at least close to nothing for either frame flex or suspension bounce/flex.

I have actually removed the factory stabilizer jacks and now only use the 4 screw jacks and couldn't be happier.

Larry