Just bought a 27ft, double axles TT that will be towed by my '07 F-150 using the manufactured installed towing system. Just reading some idea about the weight distribution bars, and how do I buy the correct WD bars w/o knowing my TW? Or can I not use the WD bar after all?

You will need WD for anything over #500 TW and #5000 trailer.My 22' #5000 GVWR TT has around #650 TW and I use a #1000 EAZ-Lift WD hitch setup. Been using it for over 12 years and it works just fine for me.Used it with my old 97 F150 and use the same setup with the 13 F150. The 13 has much more towing capacity than the 97, but I still need the WD setup..The "installed towing system" you refer to is NOT a substitute for a basic WD hitch setup.. ;)Good luck!Mitch

Thanks Mitch,My 27ft TT also has 5000GVWR w/c is very similar to yours, thanks. Now will I also need a sway bar that goes along with it or just a WD bar can do the job?

Agree with Mitch150. I have the same hitch he does for many years. I also have a friction sway control. Good luck.

I've never felt the need for any additional "sway control" on my setup. I have decent TW % and the axles on my trailer are located on the rear 1/3 of the trailer, so with them being 2/3 of the way back from the hitch, I've never experienced "sway".. Even with high winds, being passed by semi's, a couple of emergency maneuvers, going down hill....Folks swear by those add on friction sway devices that you add to your setup. Others swear by the WD hitches with "built-in" sway control, like the Equal-I-Zer's or Dual Cams or others and they are all fine depending on what your rig needs.My EAZ-Lift only cost $250 back in 2002. Not sure what they cost now, but it's been a perfect setup for me.I've been towing trailers for over 30 years, so I've found out that just loading them correctly makes most of the difference.. At least for those kinds of trailers that you can adjust the load..TT's, you don't have that many options on how it's loaded because it all depends on how far back the axles are and where the storage is, or where the fresh water tank is and on and on..Without really knowing more about the trailer you have in mind, it's hard to say one way or the other what you might need or not..Mitch

marauder7 wrote:Thanks Mitch,My 27ft TT also has 5000GVWR w/c is very similar to yours, thanks. Now will I also need a sway bar that goes along with it or just a WD bar can do the job?Sway control is needed in addition to the WDH. Maybe even two of the friction type sway control bars with that long of a trailer

Weight distribution for a novice user | Good Sam Community

handye9
Explorer II
Jan 13, 2015
marauder7 wrote:
Thanks Mitch,

My 27ft TT also has 5000GVWR w/c is very similar to yours, thanks. Now will I also need a sway bar that goes along with it or just a WD bar can do the job?

Check Andersen No Sway WD hitch. Link

Should work very well with your setup. Built in sway control (no extra parts to deal with), cuts down bouncing, and you'll love the low weight and cleanliness (no grease).

I have an Andersen hitch and a BlueOx Swaypro. UPS delivered both. The driver threw the Andersen box (60 lbs) up on his shoulder and carried it by himself. When the Blue Ox was delivered (bulky 130 lb box), I had to help the driver get it out of the truck and we used a cart to get it up the driveway.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Jan 13, 2015
Nvr2loud wrote:
I have a different opinion then most on friction sway control...

Snip...

Rather than different, I think just about everyone on here would agree with you. :)
Barney
Nvr2loud
Explorer II
Jan 13, 2015
I have a different opinion then most on friction sway control...

It does not hurt to have the friction bars, but the trailer should be set-up properly FIRST without the friction bars to tow without very little / no sway at all. Then add the friction bars if you desire them.

I had no friction bars for years, it was fine. I purchased a used hitch to get higher load bars and it came with the friction control. My trailer is already set-up without any sway, but since I have the friction bar handy, I have used it. I have no difference in towing experience with the friction bar installed, but hopefully it will stop the small uncommon sway events from happening. It is extra insurance for me.

I am not a fan of using friction bars to correct a known trailer sway issue, the trailer should be set-up properly without them first.

If a trailer has a severe sway problem, and friction bars are added to reduce that sway, then eventually the trailer could get to a severe sway point that 'overppowers' the friction device and major problems can occur rapidly.
rbpru
Explorer II
Jan 13, 2015
The WD hitch manufacturer said to adjust the chain links so the loaded TT and TV sit level. The dealer adjusted the ball height when I picked up the empty TT.

Since the TT shows no signs of sway or fish tailing, I have never worried about an anti-sway device.
rbpru
Explorer II
Jan 12, 2015
My rig is a 5000lb. dry weight 25 ft. Dutchmen pulled by a 2011 F-150 E-Boost.

The dealer installed a Blue Ox hitch. I have never had an issue with TT sway. The hitch is supposed to have some sway reducing properties to it.
campigloo
Explorer
Jan 11, 2015
It is true that sway bars are not required for towing a trailer. They will also go down the road without lights, bumpers, spare tires or brakes. I prefer to use all of the above. Do yourself a favor and sink another 100 bucks into sway bars. Required? Absolutely not. Better control, easier drive? Just my experience but yes, way better.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Jan 11, 2015
Read this;
Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch --- How it Works

Do this;
Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure
Still_Searchin_
Explorer
Jan 11, 2015
Recommended tongue weight for trailers is 12-15% of your gross trailer weight and most everybody takes their RV to the GVWR weights. Using that calculation will give you the weight rating that will work for your WD bars. We've used the add-on sway control slide mechanisms in the past, and usually only installed them when windy conditions were encountered. If the Equalizer or the Reese SC (sway control) WD hitches are reasonably priced, they both have excellent built-in friction sway controls. Our 7500# trailer has never experienced anything but slightly mild sway using our Reese SC set-up.
Houston_Remodel
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
I have the same truck and nearly the same TT. Since I tow some sort of trailer pert near every day, the WDH is mandatory IMHO for a TT of your weight and size. I mention side because wind is a factor, not just the weight.

With a little practice, its fairly quick to get hitched.

I did add a K&N air intake for 29 more Hp, and amn Evolution / Edge engine programmer. Both greatly assist when in tow mode. In trans mode (regular street driving) it went from 12 to 14 mpg. In tow mode it shift a whole lot better. Since I have no history towing the TT without the motor chip, all I can tell you we get 11 mpg in my relatively flat area of the USA.
Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
marauder7 wrote:
Thanks Mitch,

My 27ft TT also has 5000GVWR w/c is very similar to yours, thanks. Now will I also need a sway bar that goes along with it or just a WD bar can do the job?

Sway control is needed in addition to the WDH. Maybe even two of the friction type sway control bars with that long of a trailer