weight distribution recommendation

xteacher wrote:
I have used the Reese Dual Cam when we had larger TTs and never had any issues. My hitch guy likes this one and also the Blue Ox. He does not like the Equalizer hitch. He said that in his experience, they do very well when new, but they wear out faster than the other two.

I would never buy one that depends on steel on steel friction, but that's just me.

I have used the Reese Dual Cam when we had larger TTs and never had any issues. My hitch guy likes this one and also the Blue Ox. He does not like the Equalizer hitch. He said that in his experience, they do very well when new, but they wear out faster than the other two.

Mike Up wrote:
BTW, the E2 isn't made by Equal-i-zer, it's made by Fastway.

Fastway and Equal-i-zer are both companies of Progress Mfg.

The Equal-i-zer hitch is just that. It's really not named the E4 by any account on their website.

Um.. I did't realize that. Maybe the term "E4" comes from the idea of "4-point Sway Control" and "E" for Equal-i-zer?

Mike Up wrote:
BTW, the E2 isn't made by Equal-i-zer, it's made by Fastway.

Fastway and Equal-i-zer are both companies of Progress Mfg.

The Equal-i-zer hitch is just that. It's really not named the E4 by any account on their website.

They're both made by the same company, Progress Mfg. They are not separate companies. From the Equal-i-zer website:

The Original Equal-i-zer® Sway Control Hitch is a product of Progress Mfg. Inc.

From the sticker on and the manual for the E2:

The e2 hitch is a product of Progress Mfg. Inc.

E2 is an obvious reference to "Equal-i-zer 2 point", and it's common for people to call the branded Equal-i-zer 4 point sway control hitch the E4. That's not incorrect, it's just a colloquialism.

I suspect they only market the E2 separately because it's made in China to lower the cost, which allows them to state that Equal-i-zer hitches are made in the USA.

To the OP: why not just get the brackets tack welded to the frame, or even have some "bumps" welded top and bottom on either side of them to keep them from moving?

SQUAT in the rear isn't an issue, guys. It's how much the front comes up. Most modern truck manufacturers specify that the front of the TV should only come up half the distance between loaded and unloaded height.

The object of the WDH IS NOT to keep the rear from squatting. It is to put weight back on the front axle. If you are trying to get the rear back up to normal ride height, you are doing it wrong.

To the OP, have you spoken with equalizer about your brackets moving? What did they say? Can you get replacement spring bars?

Until you know your actual tongue weight, I'd hold off on getting a new wdh. Get your tongue weight figured out.

You can actually run 1000# bars with 1000# tongue. Or you can run 1400# bars. According to how much weight you are transferring, 1400# may make no difference. It's all about how tight you have your bars loaded.

The difference will come in how it rides. 1000# bars are going to ride "softer" than those 1400# bars. Meaning, hit a bump with 1000# bars and you could experience more oscillation than 1400# bars. The 1400# bars will be a much stiffer connection with the 1000# tongue.

With all that being said, I ran a dual cam setup prior to my hensley. If you are happy with your sway characteristics, I would determine WHY your brackets are moving around. Especially since it seems that no one else is having those issues. Could be as simple as an incorrect measurement.

YMMV

I haven't had any problems with the operation of my Blue Ox. Works well and does what it claims. I would say it's probably the best bang for the buck.

Sounds like one of those commercials where the simplest task is a total disaster until along comes the super duper calamity proof widget that even the most inept soul can use with the greatest of ease.

BTW, the E2 isn't made by Equal-i-zer, it's made by Fastway.

Fastway and Equal-i-zer are both companies of Progress Mfg.

The Equal-i-zer hitch is just that. It's really not named the E4 by any account on their website.

6.7 tow rig wrote:
Well the reason I thought the bars were too light is because how much my truck squats. It's very noticeable when hooked up regardless of how I try to set it up?

Your truck should NOT squat. If so with the bars at the strongest setting, then you're right, bars are to small or weak for your tongue weight.

Get a scale and weigh your tongue and then decide which bars to get.

6.7 tow rig wrote:
Give me a recommendation on a good WDH. I have the equalizer E2 now and like the way it controls sway but have constant issues with brackets that mount on the frame always sliding around and then bending when I tighten them. I also know the 1000lb bars I have are too light for my tongue weight. I would like something that doesn't use the "bolt on bracket" that clamps to the tongue like the equalizer. Blue Ox sway pro looked good but now I am seeing issues in another thread on this forum. Ideas?

I had a Reese Strait-Line (Dual Cam HP-High Performance) system. It was very very noisy and was very difficult to set up and install initially. Dealer installed incorrectly and spring bar socket on the head broke off. And previously on my other truck, the spring bar rubbed the cam bracket where tight turns put a lot of stress on the bracket and the spring bar.

I'm done with all the headaches this system has even though it does have great sway control.

I tried the newly designed Blue Ox Sway Pro and boy am I impressed. It controls sway just as good if not better, is super quiet, easy to install initially, and very easy to hookup to the camper and truck when towing.

It's about the same price as the Reese Strait Line, but IMO, a much better hitch and sway control system. It was in the original design, not an after thought like the Reese Dual Cam HP sway control.