All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 4.1 amp parasitic draw - 2020 Ford V-10 Thor OutlawThank you all for the input. I can check step, LP detector & stereo to see what they draw. (I guess it would be very low) Good to check TV antenna amplifier, it's easy to forget. Even alternators draw a tiny bit but that's off the chassis battery. I've designed battery powered electronic devices - it seems a truly poor design if the inverter draws over an amp when off.4.1 amp parasitic draw - 2020 Ford V-10 Thor OutlawUpon further investigation, the condition is worse than I first saw. 1.5 +/- amp draw from the G7 Module & interior fuse panel circuit 0.8 amp draw from another circuit (starts at 0.3 and then goes up) 1.8 amp from the inverter (starts at 3.0 and then goes down) Total: 4.1 amps with nothing turned on. The first two circuits can be turned off by the master switch but the inverter stays continues to draw even when the master switch is off. No big deal when plugged into shore power but really cuts down on battery when dry camping. Anyone have experience with this RV or solving this? Thanks, JohnRe: 1.6 amp parasitic draw - 2020 Ford V-10Thank you all. Excellent suggestions about things to check. I assume the control module would draw less than 0.10 amp1.6 amp parasitic draw - 2020 Ford V-10Measured a 1.6 amp draw when all items are off. The circuit includes the G7 control module and the interior fuse panel. Anybody have experience with this or the typical G7 draw? Thanks, JohnRe: lock/latch for rear compartment door - need sourceThis is one of the best forums I've ever seen. The knowledge and helpfulness of the members make it great. I hope some of my entries have helped others too. Here are a couple pics: Re: lock/latch for rear compartment door - need source LouLawrence wrote: Let's see a picture. No site is easier than this one to post a photo. See the DIY topic for instructions. You are 100% correct that a picture should be shown. You are 100% wrong that no website is easier than this one to post a photo. The well designed website allow you to just click on a photo from your pc. Self explanatory and takes just a few seconds. I'm already 20 minutes into this but think I have it now. This multi-step process is about as efficient as dial-up :)Re: lock/latch for rear compartment door - need sourceThanks for the suggestion. I'll call around locally. I forgot to mention it had a black thump/knob around the lock cylinder. There are many to choose from ithout the knob.lock/latch for rear compartment door - need sourceWinnie (per Lichtsinn) says the lock/latch for rear compartment door is no longer available. It's a simple lock assembly that turns 90 degrees and has threads on the inner end for attaching the lever that holds the door shut. Anyone have a idea regarding source for this? I'd sure prefer not to fabricate one. 2008 Itasca I have photos but it appears they need a URLOnan generator carb replacement notes - 4k microquietGenerator started running rough and stalling under load. Cleaning and soaking carb in cleaner for a week helped but not enough. I tried two Chinese carbs off eBay ($36 and $47 if memory serves). Both ran very poorly if at all. Bit the bullet and bought Onan (Cummins) carb from ppl motorhomes for $290 + 10 shipping. Runs sweet again now. Here are my notes in case of use to others: Removal notes Remove air filter; tight fit, need to pull front end far down and out Remove gas line (plug if Remove 2 carb bolts; my 3/8 socket on 6” extension (1/4” drive) worked well Each bolts has a small flat washer Warning don’t drop bolt or tools onto starter solenoid Remove black plastic spacer (need to close throttle plate – move linkage all the way toward motor) Push tin plate away from carb to compress foam to help insert/remove carb Remove ground wire with T30 for ground wire; needle nose pliers to hold engine wire to help disconnect solenoid wire connector; Tip carb to slide linkages out Installation notes: Warning: make sure choke linkage is behind the carb (it can be in front and that hold the choke closed) short 3-4” socket extension help to insert and start bolt s Other notes Service manual say pump should be 3-4 psi but mine reads in the 2’s (on two gauges) and appears to work fineRe: Replacement ideas for pos Jensen a/v receiverThank you for the replies. I considered the double din car auto. Agree much better choice and quality for the $. However, 'we' wanted the 3 speaker zones and the dvd. Crutchfield has Jensen JWM62A for $199 but it's listed at 6 watts /channel (RMS). The current Jensen junk I have is listed as 18 w per channel (without Jensen stating RMS or peak) Crutchfield also has a iRV iRV6500BT for $230 stating 45w peak/channel but the reviews are all bad. The current unit had the CD/DVD fail a while ago but I bought a blu ray play for about $60 and use that. Now the Volume switch stopped working but after posting I remembered that the unit has a remote. That works good enough for now. I simply do not want to send any more money to Jensen after a decade of multiple failures.