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Drag Link Replacement too long: 1995 P32
Hi All, I have a 1995 P32 MH (see below for Mfg data/VIN) and I was going to replace the drag link, but the new recommended part is about 3/8" too long. I've worked with two auto parts stores using the VIN and the listed part is 13.42" long, but the one on my rig is about 13.06" long. I've looked online at 7 parts suppliers and they all spec the 13.42" long part? I'm at a loss on how I can get the correct drag link??? Thank you and I appreciate any help/ideas you could provide. Georgie Boy MFG. INC. Edwardsburg, MI 49112 VIN: 1GBJP37N0S3318998 / U10573965 Date of Mfg: May 1995 Date of Inc. Mfg: April 1995 GVWR: 12,300/5580 Kg GAWR: FR: 4880/2214 with 7.5 x 16D Tires, 16 x 6K Rim Rear: 10,000/4536 with 7.5 x 16D Tires 159” Wheelbase; P chassis model# P31432-5 Update to Post: The pitman arm has a splined shaft, allowing it to be adjusted. I'm wondering if that's what I should do? But, I have very little experience with steering linkage and nervous to start changing the setup. I guess I could mark the current position of the shaft and then play around with it a bit. Does anyone have any experience with this?981Views0likes2CommentsRe: 1995 P30 ECM Faults (454 TBI)
Finally got around to working on this and the problem turned out to be the butterfly valve being held slightly open by the cruise control cable; not sure how the cable shrunk. I also removed the IAC and cleaned the pintle (it looked very good) and pintle seat. Also removed the EGR and it looked very good as well. All of the fault codes cleared within a few minutes after starting the engine. It properly idled up cold and then dropped after warming up. It now idles at 800RPM, which I believe is still a little high; spec is 625 +/-25 RPM? I will check for vacuum leaks. I bought a new throttle body gasket just in-case and suspect that is most likely issue. I did pass SMOG yesterday! Also just discovered an exhaust leak; hopefully just a flange gasket. I believe by 1995 GM corrected the "cracking/warping manifold" problems?704Views0likes0Comments1995 P30 ECM Faults (454 TBI)
My MH has been constantly idling way too high whether it is hot, cold, etc. I checked the ECM codes and below is what I found: 32 - egr circuit (fuel-injected models); DTC - 32 EGR system failure 36 - MAF sensor error 37 - TCC brake switch circuit error 54 - fuel pump circuit (1986 and later models); DTC - 54 Fuel pump circuit low voltage 71 - A/C evaporator temp sensor circuit error (low temp indicated) I think (?) all of the code descriptions above are correct as I researched several websites, but still not 100% sure. Regardless,I need to do some maintenance. Could 32 and 36 be related somehow? Regarding the idle; I read some posts from 2012 where cleaning the IAC valve pintle might be causing the idle problem - could that also cause code 36? I plan to start with cleaning the pintle to see if it helps with the idle and clears some of the ECM codes. Below are parts I found and trying to decide which ones to purchase and/or in what order; - EGR Valve ($100) - EGR Valve Control Switch ($72) - IAC Valve ($77) - MAP Sensor ($?) - Throttle Position Sensor ($48) - Oil Pressure Sender ($25) - Switch/Relay; Brake Light ($14) Any help/experience dealing with these codes would be greatly appreciated. I will also try to test some of the sensors with a digital multimeter, but not sure what I should see. I believe some of the signals would require an oscilloscope to see the sensor output? Thanks and hope everyone is having a great Memorial Weekend honoring our veterans!2.4KViews0likes6CommentsRe: 1995 P32 Rotors Overheating
The rotors were dark blue and trashed from overheating so many times; especially the last. He replaced rotors, calipers, brake pads and master cylinder. $1500 bucks (ouch), but we did not have any brake problems on vacation, so it was worth it. I guess it really might have been both pistons sticking, just strange that it was happening on both sides. Just got home this evening after a 6 hour white-knuckle drive in 40mph cross winds from Lake Mead to home. The front end is still too lose and needs more work. I replaced the drivers's side bell crank and idler, which made a dramatic improvement, but it may be time to replace the passenger side bell crank as well. I will start a new post on this one as I am interested in installing a track bar, but worried the rear air bags might make that difficult or impossible.704Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 P32 Rotors Overheating
Mike, Thanks, I will bring this up with the mechanic. I am going on business travel this weekend and need the MH working well as the day I return we are heading to Grand Canyon (BRRRR) for vacation. Tonight on the trip home fron rotors were 300 deg with ambient temp of ~55 deg. Let y'all know what I find out in the end. Thanks for all the great ideas/help - it is greatly appreciated.705Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 P32 Rotors Overheating
enblethen wrote: Looks like something is sticking. Where did you find the cross reference on the O'Reilly website? Doubt whether it is the hydro boost. Does your rig have a proportioning valve on the rear brakes? It is normally located on right side. Linkage is attached to the differential housing then to the frame. It has an adjustment at the elbow in the linkage. On Oreilley's website I just entered the GM PN and came back with multiple options, one of them being the Cardon MC I purchased. I don't believe there is a proportioning valve on the Diff as I recall trying to remove the input hose to the T-adapter where the lines split between LR/RR; The adapter was quite small and did not appear to have any adjsutments, but I will check a few other locations. ON the drive in today the Front roters were at a smoking 525 deg and rear at 300 deg. I did brake a little harder on this trip and it showed. I normally baby the brakes and downshift at most stops.704Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 P32 Rotors Overheating
Oreilly's was only website I've found that could take the GM PN and spit out cross refrenced PNs and Cardone 131982 came up as replacement. So I think the MC is the right PN? Last night I drilled a hole in linkage and sprayed lithium grease - got some to come out the end of the linkage, so there was some penetration. I will drive it to work again today. Below is summary of temps for 13 mile drive to work; Trip 1: Front 450 deg (did not measure rear) Trip 2: Front 450 deg (did not measure rear) Trip 3: Front 250 deg (did not measure rear) Trip 4: Front 250 deg (did not measure rear) Trip 5: Front 420 deg; rear 220 deg Trip 6: Front 350 deg; rear 200 deg (this was last night) Two other potential issues?? 1) When I bled the brake system and replace the hoses, I was unable to replace the rear hose; could not get the bolt loose on the T-junction. I don't know enough about the hydraulic system to understand if that could be related in any way. The rear brakes appear to be working fine. 2) Could the hydrobooster be in early stages of failure (leaking seals?) and cause this to happen? I am driving MH to work again today to see what happens. Strange that trip 3 & 4 everything appeared normal?704Views0likes0CommentsRe: 1995 P32 Rotors Overheating
Found the original GM PN below. Cardone does not have a PN cross reference capability on their website, but I will search a few auto store websites and eventually find it. GM Part Number: 14066425 CYLINDER, Brake Master Cylinder This genuine part is manufactured and warranty covered by GM.Your Price:$166.22704Views0likes0Comments
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