johnxhc
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How to check on old DP's engine, transmission ,radiator & Chassis
Hi, I am in the process of purchasing a mid 2000's Monaco DP - 70k miles (per dealer is a repo without service record), both inside & outside are very clean with very few paint chips, cabinets looks very good. I am getting an inspector, but he is mostly inspect the housing side of the RV, I read a lot of post on fluid test, that doesn't necessarily tell you that much and that will take some time for the result to come back. So is any way (I know it is not going to complete) for me to open the engine cover and check the obvious thing on Engine & Transmission & Radiator ?(need to know what are those obvious things are), listen to the engine noise? I just could not find any of those post or video on the web. Or there is just no way you can find out the the problems(if any) on engine , transmissions and Radiator? Or if I hire a mechanic to inspect it, how much he is able to tell me and is that worth the money? Unfortunately the dealer won't let me take the motorhome to a shop to hook up a machine to inspect(their "policy"), but I can get a mechanic there to inspect for the Chassis, is just check the rust? or is there anything else? Please advise. Thanks!735Views0likes6CommentsRe: Taos and Santa Fe with 37’ Taos motorhome
dedmiston wrote: Most of the "old town" parts of those cities are small and tight. There's so much to see in those towns and it would be a shame to miss parts or to be stressed out the whole time. I agree that renting a car would be cheap insurance to make sure you can see everything you want to see. That's a beautiful part of our country. Enjoy it. Good point! Thank you! Just rented a jeep on Turo.com, only $80/day, much better than Car Rental company.448Views0likes0CommentsTaos and Santa Fe with 37’ Taos motorhome
We are going to Taos, Santa Fe NM next month. I am still waiting for my jeep (ordered), without a toad, is it still possible to drive my 37’ Class A motorhome to visit attractions in Taos, Santa Fe and find parking? Please advise. Thank you!3.6KViews0likes11CommentsRe: Trouble shooting the cause of Charge Line blown fuse
YC 1 wrote: Is this a new problem? That is, was it working at one time? If it was working then you need to take the connectors apart for an inspection. They often have loose wires that short and chasing that with a voltmeter may be incredibly difficult. If it only does it with the RV plugged into the truck then inspect the trailer plug closely. I mean take it apart carefully. Heck, a simple screw rattling around inside can drive you crazy. Yes, it was working before. Ok, I will open the 7 way trailer plug and check.485Views0likes0CommentsRe: Trouble shooting the cause of Charge Line blown fuse
CA Traveler wrote: If the trailer is attached one possibiliy is that the total amp draw exceeds the fuse, which can be corrected with LEDs. But first measue the amp draw on the brake and charge wire. Have you checked for the correct fuse size? Is the trailer battery good and how do you know? No, the trailer is not attached... it is 30 amps fuse, which is correct size. no sure what you meant by "trailer battery"..484Views0likes0CommentsTrouble shooting the cause of Charge Line blown fuse
On my Class A (Ford F53 chassis), if I pushed the brake pedala few times , the Charge Line fuse blew up, this is repeatable.When that happened, I lost power on Hot and trailer break on 7 way trailer plug I looked under the RV, the wire for the 7 way trailer plug, everything looked normal and I did not see anything obvious such as damaged wire etc..How do I fix that? I do have a multi-meter. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.2.6KViews0likes10Comments
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Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 14, 202538,705 Posts
