alliemac9
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Re: RV Garage Construction - Any Tips?
OP here. Wow - thanks for all the input so far! I hope to be able to respond more specifically and ask some clarifying questions, but am buried with some stuff at the moment and then will be traveling briefly. It will (hopefully) be attached to house, matching materials, frame built, siding exterior, etc. So, closed in with typical (but oversized) garage door. Am thinking of a double man door on back to allow riding mower out, and ventilation, etc. And half the reason for the laundry rough-in is to justify a cleanout to use as a dump station. There currently is no exterior cleanout to access. The current place I store it has a 10'W x 14'H door, so I know all about the narrowness issue and I will likely feel spoiled with a 12'W door. Actually, where I store it now is pretty insane in all dimensions. I have to creep in, putting it in park regularly to pull mirrors in and out as I pass through the door opening. And then stop within a quarter inch of the overhead bunk hitting an upper wall while being perfectly perpendicular to said wall, or the door won't close. :D If anyone in CO has recommendations on contractors, etc. I'm all ears - still working on that part.744Views0likes0CommentsRV Garage Construction - Any Tips?
I'm in the planning stages for an RV garage. I have a relatively short Class C, but would prefer to future-proof this structure (hence asking in the Class A area). Anyone done this? Have any recommendations for resources or input on any of the following? Is there a better area on this forum to discuss this? -Door size? (hoping to do 12'W x 14'H) -Length? (thinking 45-50') -Width? (I have more restrictions here due to setbacks, may be limited to approximately 15' - not ideal, but still excited to have indoor storage onsite) -Slab construction? (6" reinforced w/rebar?) -Insulation considerations to keep garage above freezing? -Heater type? -Dump station? (don't know if this is possible re: code) -Ceiling height/style? -Drain? (floor or trench? is this a must have?) -RV outlet - how best to implement? I would want to put a 50A plug, but I only need 30A. Is there a way to have both plugs but only one functional at a given time, so it's only one 50A circuit versus two separate circuits? Or maybe I should do two separate so I have a guest outlet in the event of a moochdocking friend? Any resources for the electrician? I've heard of people ending up with their plug wired for 220V like a dryer instead of 110V the RV needs - want to ensure the electrician is 100% clear. I'm currently planning on frame construction attached to the existing two-car garage. Have two current stretch goals, if you will, that may or may not be implemented based on cost/budget considerations. These include: -Rooftop deck on back half of garage -Laundry hookups (this is also future-proofing...the house is a ranch with laundry in the basement; if I could at least plumb it into garage I would have total single floor living if my knees ever give out on me - this may also offer options for a clean out that doubles as a dump station?) Any insight appreciated!6.8KViews0likes25CommentsRe: Alternatives to lack of storage space
photobug wrote: A small trailer hardwired for the generator/solar/battery might be interesting. That way I'm not tripping over all that stuff when not in use. Based on what you outlined, sounds like considering building out an event photo trailer would suit your business, your move and potentially your travel needs as well (setting it up in such a way to provide space for hauling other things when needed). Could be pretty slick!745Views0likes0CommentsRe: Coachmen Freelander low point drain valve
fred42 wrote: These valves are also on the water heater bypass pipes. I am always concerned that I will snap one of them off by turning it the wrong way. Once I determine the proper direction, I put an adhesive white label somewhere nearby and draw a spiral arrow and the word OPEN on it. I had the same fear - plus forgetfulness when winterizing and then not being able to remember if I left things open or closed when prepping for the next trip. I just use a sharpie and draw on the wood near the water heater valves and the linoleum next to the low point valves (since it's under a drawer and out of sight). Very handy!1.5KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Alternatives to lack of storage space
Would something like this (Amazon link) be enough? I have one... I don't recall having needed it on the RV yet, but it's always in the back of my mind if I do. Comes in handy on the SUV on occasion. Seems fairly utilitarian, but small and economical. Also, not sure what all you need to power photographically, but you might want to bump solar higher on your project list and then you could get rid of the Honda generator. I have 632 watts on my roof and have no problem keeping up with everything. I, unfortunately, don't have space for a big battery bank, so I try to run laptops and charge things when the sun is out, but realistically, I could punish my batteries more than I do and be perfectly fine. Solar might be one of my favorite upgrades to date!! (from one photog to another) :)535Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2007 Freelander - water operating questions
Mich F wrote: mgharrison wrote: That's probably right, since there's not a separate place to add water to tank. I don't have any experience with a c class. That doesn't sound right. I believe there should be a valve to switch or separate connections to fill tank or use city water. mgharrison is right - there is only one fill port on these coaches and no gravity fill. The city water fill is the only port, and changing the water panel knobs determines whether it fills the water tank or is set to provide water to the plumbing. There was a really recent thread that (I'm hoping, but haven't tested the knowledge yet) taught me a new way to use the pump to suck liquid in (i.e. from a jug - an option for adding water when boondocking given the lack of gravity fill). Here's the recent post, which would be worth sharing with the new owner: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29186615.cfm336Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2007 Freelander - water operating questions
I have a 2007 Freelander. The water panel on the exterior of the rig should have a good description of which way the two valves need to point for each scenario. City and pump are the same - both knobs pointed up. Then it's just a matter of turning the water pump on at the control panel inside.336Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fresh Water Pump? Replace with OEM or Upgrade??
The OEM pump that came in my C was, I would assume, as cheap as they come. I can't remember exactly why, but I decided to upgrade it before it died (and keep it on hand as a spare). I went with a variable speed pump that was fairly expensive. It was a NIGHT AND DAY difference. With the OEM pump, I wondered if other people at NP campgrounds thought I had my generator on! I'm sure it wasn't that loud outside, but it felt like it from the inside. The variable speed pump is just so much better - primarily from a noise perspective. I like that it ramps up and down rather than the jolting on/off of the cheapo. I want to say I spent a couple or few hundred bucks at CW for the new one? Not sure - it's been a few years...343Views0likes0CommentsRe: Making a corner queen bed?
I used to be the half of a (very tall) couple that slept in the far side of a rear corner bed. It wasn't a problem. That said, I'm still young enough to rarely need a bathroom in the middle of the night. I'm single now and I would choose a rear corner bed either way. Is it annoying to make? Yes, it is (and more so now that I have a real mattress rather than the crappy foam thing that came with the RV). Is it annoying to get in and out of? Maybe sometimes. However, climbing into an over-cab bed or converting another thing into a bed daily would be WAY MORE annoying to me. This is how I minimize the annoyance of making a corner bed: Step 1: At the beginning of the season, I make the bed completely using the mattress cover and a fitted flannel sheet. These stay in place all season. Step 2: I use the FLAT flannel sheet (because I like flannel, usually camp when it's colder, and because it stays put well against the fitted flannel) and tuck it in around the edges on top of the fitted flannel sheet. This is my new BOTTOM sheet. It's easy to put on since it's just tucked in between the mattress and the walls. Step 3: I use a random flat sheet and a comforter for my top bedding. Step 4: To wash/remake the bed during the season, it's just a matter of pulling off the two flat sheets and putting them back. Super easy! In this way, I only battle with the fitted stuff once a year. :) (and it's not THAT big of a battle) To each their own, but floor plan is priority #1 in RVs and I love the rear corner bed floor plans.929Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help with Coachmen "Water Works" panel
Travelin2 wrote: DrewE wrote: It appears that the right hand valve is between the pressure side and the tank inlet, i.e. the fill valve. The left hand valve apparently selects where the hose inlet and pump inlet hook up. I would try the left valve in the winterize position and the right valve in the fill position -- i.e. both valves pointed at each other. It may not work. Another method for getting the bleach solution into the tank that many people use is to set the valves to fill, pour the appropriate amount of bleach (undiluted) into the far end of the hose, and then hook it up to the spigot and fill as usual. The bleach will dilute properly when the tank is filled. The short burst of undiluted bleach won't harm the plumbing or hose in any way, though it might not be a great idea to let it sit there for hours or days on end. Well Drew, I'm not sure how you deduced that the levers need to be pointed at each other to suck water into the winterize port and put it in the holding tank but that is the correct setting. I played around with the valves this morning and found it works fine. The designers of the user instruction panel just didn't make it clear enough for some of us dunderheads. The position indicated for using water from the tank or city water is correct. The position indicated for winterizing, sucks in through the winterizing port and puts it directly into the plumbing system so you can turn on each faucet till you get the pink stuff but does not fill the tank. For that to happen the levers need to be pointed at each other and then fluid is sucked in through the winterizing port and straight to the freshwater tank. The only snafu was that they didn't indicate that on the instruction panel. Drew was able to figure it out and I had to use trial and error. I guess if I need to figure something out about dynamite, maybe I better call Drew. Wow - I am so excited to try this on my rig! I have the exact same water panel (same graphics and knobs; I've seen a few variations from Coachmen) and I could NOT get mine to suck anything up, either. I've always used the "pour bleach into the hose" trick. But, I thought it would be cool to have a backup plan to suck water from a jug to refill the tank while boondocking, if I wanted (i.e. these coaches have no option for gravity fill, so without a pressure hookup I cannot add water to my freshwater tank which hasn't been a problem for me yet, but seemed like an oversight relative to other coaches). My local Coachmen people thought I was insane when I brought the manual in and said "it's supposed to suck water in" (either for winterize or non-pressure fill) and told me the valves/plumbing were not set up to accommodate that and it was a generic feature in the manual that didn't apply to my rig. Maybe they were wrong! I need to print this out and do some testing!!! And if it works, I'll take a sharpie and draw an additional configuration on the inside of the panel door or on the panel itself (I wrote inside the door the volume of bleach I need to use to sanitize my system so I don't have to look it up and calculate every time). Thanks, Drew! And thanks Travelin2 for asking the question and clarifying the function of filling the lines versus the tank! I never tried opening the faucets to find out it was filling the lines when in Winterize mode. Super excited!! :)633Views0likes0Comments
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