johnmark
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Re: Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!
Update: The 8 bolts on the driver's side all came out clean. After almost 2 weeks of spraying 2-3 times a day (ATF/Acetone and PB Blaster) and hammering on the bolt that is stuck, it still won't come out. I am wondering if I should just leave it in and thread the stud and use it to secure the header with a washer and nut? Anyone ever done this? I think the Banks header flange is only 5/8" and I got plenty of stud left to get a washer and nut on it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!608Views0likes0CommentsRe: Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!
Quick update: Thankfully the remaining seven bolts on the passenger side all came out clean. Used ATF/Acetone mix and also PB blaster. Couldn't find the AeroKroil locally. Thanks for all the tips! I am thinking about heating the stud that broke off with a torch and then try to get it out with a pair of vise grip. Should I be concerned using the torch with so much ATF and PB blaster used? All I am trying to do is heat the stud. Wondering how flammable that stuff is?609Views0likes0CommentsRe: Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!
I am just amazed at all the great responses and how quickly you came through. Thanks a million! Just to clarify, the first bolt came out fairly easy. Two others I tried but didn't get anywhere so I didn't force it and left them. I then did the rear bolt in the picture and it broke right off. With my upcoming trip and it not leaking I just felt like this was not the time to go on as I had the feeling other bolts would have broken. I think I will just put the one bolt back in and have someone weld a nut on it and take my trip. After I get back I can then try to use that welded nut to back out the stud. If it won't go, I can always cut the nut off and work on the stud once the manifold is removed. Here is another thought I had and would love to get input if this is a good idea or anyone ever used this approach. I am thinking, the bolts that feel like they will break, instead of breaking them, why not just grind off the top of the bolt and pull the manifold with stud still in. That way I am guaranteed to have enough stud to work with and don't risk breaking it flush with the head. With manifold off, I can then soak the threads, apply heat, use a vise grip or two nuts (or weld one on) 1/4" away from the head and back it out. The only question is, if I have enough clearance with the studs still in to pull the manifold? Any thoughts?445Views0likes0CommentsExhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Class A with a 460 engine. The exhaust manifold issues have been well documented and so I decided to put Banks headers and exhaust on it. All my manifold bolts seemed intact and so I started. The first one came out fairly easy but the infamous rear passenger bolt broke off. Only the head of the bolt broke so it is now flush with the manifold. Reading the horror stories of seized bolts and extraction nightmares and an upcoming trip in 3 weeks, I am thinking of just replacing my exhaust system but not the manifold at this point (which should lower the manifold temps). Since the bolt is flush and accessible I am wondering if it is possible to just weld a washer and nut on there and take it on my 3,000 mile trip. I have not had any leaks and the manifold looks good. I have attached a photo and would like to get some input on whether this is doable. Another option I thought of was to just weld the hole shut since I will be replacing the manifold with headers after I get back from my trip anyway. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!8.3KViews0likes36Comments
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