Suburban NT-20seq furnace will not light at all.
Fan and motor seems to be working fine, I have good spark at the igniter. Furnace will cycle 3 times than lockout. I hear a click from the gas valve when igniter starts but no gas/flame. Exhaust is clear, as is nozzle on end of gas line. I smell no gas at the exhaust when it is trying to light. I also replaced the board as I was told it was common problem, still no flame. Next step is gas valve as I am at a loss for what the problem will be. I’ll be close to half way there to a new furnace with the purchase of the board and valve. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Rexhall RexAire parts
Rexall RexAire 2010 with gas Workhorse engine: Error message Hydraulic Brake Warning, Check ABS. Has been diagnosed as accumulator balls need to be replaced, but they are not sold separately. The entire Valve Assembly needs to be replaced. We need help to locate Valve Assembly. Our Mechanic and people at WorkHorse have been unable to find parts. Can you direct us to locate for new or rebuilt?
CANNOT LOCATE FUSE! Wiring diagram HELP PLEASE!
Hello Coachmen owners/mechanics with ELECTRICAL knowledge, New to group here - recently purchased "CROSBY" - a 35' 2002 Cross Country with 5.9 Cummins, Allison 6 speed. Needs a LOT of coach work before my 4500+ mile trip from CO > KS > MO > IL > KY > TN > SC > FL > AL > LA > AR > OK > CO, planning to leave October 15th. Got a LOT to do before I depart - THIS IS MY MOST PRESSING ISSUE: On my post purchase trip home with it this past July, I stopped to fill up with diesel and made the rookie mistake of thinking the chassis batteries were dead when I tried to start the engine after fill-up. They weren't dead - I didn't have the gear shifter seated in neutral. Not sure if what ensued caused my current problem. I had a big diesel tow truck come to the rescue and connect jumper cables to the chassis batteries and tried to start - only worked after I realized I wasn't in neutral, moved/clicked into seated neutral, then started right up. Haven't had a starting issue since (two months, 30+ starts). BUT, I'm pretty certain that all of these accessories stopped working at the time of the unnecessary jump start attempt: dash climate control (heat/ac/blower), windshield wipers, both fans at the upper corners of the windshield, the aftermarket backup camera wired to the headlight switch (but the headlights still work), and aftermarket touch screen stereo. The stereo didn't fail at once - the touch screen would intermittently not work, would power on and off haphazardly, and finally died completely. The guy I bought it from said he thought I fried a relay connected to the gear shifter and tried to help me find it doing facetime video troubleshooting. No luck. I pulled every fuse panel I could find searching for blown fuse(s) but haven't found any blown ones. The one thing I did find is burned/damaged wire sheathing on both sides of the leveling system wiring connector accessible from the front left exterior access panel where the hydraulic fluid reservoir sits. A friend of mine said the wires looked "burned" but I'm not convinced they are burned or even degraded from excessive heat, I think the 23 year old wiring harness may have simply degraded (the rig was parked outside most of it's life) from seasonal temperature fluctuations. I disconnected that harness because bare wires were touching each other after I wiped away all of the degradation. I never did test the leveling system before or after I bought it and won't reconnect it until I fix that problem. I called Forest River's Coachmen Cross Country division and they said they don't have wiring diagrams to share for builds before 2009. Does anyone out there have or know where to find those diagrams OR better yet, YOU might know exactly where I should look for a fuse/relay/component to replace to solve my problem - please enlighten me! Much advance appreciation here! ALSO - happy to provide detailed photos/video of anything that would help diagnose and/or schedule a facetime/zoom/(any video conferencing platform) for virtual assistance.
50 amp outlet/surge protector voltage error
First time, I apologize for the long post. I hope I can get some insight, because I am completely lost. I have an outlying shop that I installed a 50 amp outlet to using a 50 amp box with 6/3 copper wire. Testing it with a multimeter I get 120 on each leg and 240 combined, as well as 120 from the main breaker and 50 amp breaker. However, when I plug in my 50 amp surge protector it shows an error of "E2: Voltage over 132V". The weird thing is, when I plug my protector into a 50/30 dog bone with the 15 adapter the surge protector turns on with no issue showing 119V so I dont believe it's the protector. Any suggestions would be appreciated because after checking and changing neutrals and grounds and checking the same things over and over, I have no idea the next step and I really dont want to spend thousands having a company wire something in. TIA. For context I have a new GEARGO RV-04 50 amp surge protector.Does this electrical box have any value to try to sell on an auction site?
Does this electrical box have any value to try to resell on the auction site? It would be used I presume and untested. I remember when my father bought a new one and installed it in the motorhome and something happened to the new one or the old one and I’m not sure which one this is. The back of the housing is cracked.
Fuel pump ?
My 1999 Gulfstream Triton V10, starts right up idle straight runs up good I drive around the block a couple times to warms up with my pressure gauge hooked up and it drops from 32 psi down to 10 when i acceleration , dinner idle it back to park it shut it off and after 3 or 4 hours I started up again and same thing happens every time I change the filter a few times I drain the bad gas out of there thinking that was the issue but the same symptoms just looking for some feedback before I drop that tank would it be something that simple as a relay which some people say I guess I'm hoping for but it sure seems doubtful but I ll definitely check thatRefrigerator
I have Dometic z fridge in my 2023 Thor. I talked to Good Sam Tech support. He had me remove the outside cover and feel the combustion chamber for heat. It was hot to the touch. He also had me feel the piping going from the chamber and they we outside temperature. He said the fridge lines are plugged and it can only be replaced because it’s a sealed unit. I passed this on to Camping World but they want to rig it to operate instead of replacing it. I have factory and extended coverage. It seems like every time they touch my camper something breaks in it.
