Girard Tankless Water Heater III - Error E7
Hey folks. TLDR: Getting an E7 error code on our tankless water heater, except sometimes it's an E1 code and sometimes it's an E2 code. What's the problem and how do we fix it? We've been using our water heater with no problem as full-timers for almost 4 years. Finally, we moved out of the trailer and winterized it for the first time. We used an air compressor to blow it out as recommended and left for a few months. Now we're back in the trailer for a month and suddenly, for the first time, it's not working. We got the water hooked up and ran everything through the lines but when we switched on the water heater, it threw us E7. We tried turning it off and back on again, cleared the propane lines by running the stove and the furnace, and everything else is working great. The water heater kept throwing E7, except a few times that it would start working and get hot, and then suddenly throw an E7 again. Sometimes it throws an E1 or E2 instead of an E7, but it seems random. We've been testing it periodically by turning on the hot water and getting these different codes every time. Obviously, something is going on with the propane connection or flow that is preventing or stalling ignition, but since the error codes are vague, I don't know how to fix it, aside from ordering a new part (some kind of valve?) and taking it all apart, which I really don't want to do. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any troubleshooting or fix suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Solar advice requested.
I am pretty good with electrical issues, but this solar stuff is new to me. New travel trailer Solex4 - 400 watt panel system TBB power - Mppt solar mate charge controller 100V-40A Inside the compartment where the controller and breakers are mounted, are a bundle of wires with cut off ends. Just cut flush with no wire nuts or anything else. Two 4 or 6 gage wires in Red and Black and one 10 or maybe 12 ga wire in white all bundled together with a tape tag reading "Solar". Then 2 more wires (6 ga?) one white and one black tagged Battery. Checked for power at each wire and find nothing. Using the "SWAG" method (scientific wild as* guess), I figure it's wiring for additional solar panels if you want to install them later, or am I way off track here?
Partial power on 12V
2008 Okanagan 811SL truck camper, partial power on 12V Shore power works fine only for 110 circuits. Slide and water pump work on 12V, with or without shore power connected. Shutoff switch works properly, all 12V disconnects in the Off position. Batteries are charged, properly configured and connected. All 12V fuses, and AC breakers [ohm'ed] good in fuse panel and on power converter. Problem exists whether 7-blade connector is connected to truck [2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7] or not. New power converter installed, all 12V circuits functioned properly upon initialization and subsequently for several days prior to the new problem. All fuses on the converter [ohm'ed] good. This leads me to believe there's a power junction box between the fuse panel and the batteries, from which the slide and water pump draw their power leaving the balance of the 12V circuits on the fuse panel. I've not been able to locate such a box. Anyone who has seen or experienced this, please provide insights and/or a solution. Thanks in advance!
Hissing noise
Hey so I recently got displaced cause the hurricane and I got put into this small camper with my German Shepherd it's a jayco brand but that's all I know. It has a pop up tent like feature on the front of it. And this runs off a generator also but the noise is coming from the breaker box and when I turn the stove light on it gets quieter... Same as the sink light and radio either way when I turn something on the noise gets quieter what can I do to fix this?? Please email me at bubba88lusk@gmail.com or reply here