Forum Discussion
18 Replies
- dbblsExplorer
BigDogF250 wrote:
My thoughts also.
Depending on how bad, lift the nose of the trailer. That will lower the back end, creating less of an angle change at the door. Also lessens the angle of the ramp. - jrpExplorerI don't have that issue loading my Harley Ultra into my Raptor.
In addition to raising the rear door ramp off the ground slightly, it would also help to raise the front end jacks well past level, to lower the back end slightly while loading.
My loading issue was lack of headroom. My Raptor came with both a bed and a seats hanging from the rear lift. I had to lay on the tank to avoid hitting my head (6'3"). So I removed the bed entirely, since I never use it anyway.wpsharpshooter wrote:
The angle of the door is just to steep to load our Harleys without it catching the frame. Any ideas on what to use to fix this issue? What are you guys doing? - Y-GuyModerator
- RbertalottoExplorerYesterday was the first day I put a motorcycle in my Forest River 19RR.
Yikes, that is one steep hill! I used the electric tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer as much as I could. I use an automatic tire chock to "catch" the bikes front tire and hold the bike upright while I tie it down.
With the trailer on this much of an angle, I'm not sure how I would have done it without the chock.
Add to this the floor in the trailer is slippery as ice. I'd hate to have to load this in the rain! I had to drive a couple of screws into the floor to secure the chock as it simply slid around on the slick floor.
I have a 34" inseam and I had to tippy toe the bike as it made the transition over the hump. Not fun at all!
Unloading the bike was even more fun. The front brake on the slippery floor was useless! I kept the engine off, and the bike in gear, and used the clutch lever as a "brake" on the rear tire as it had traction on the rough surface of the ramp.
I ordered a piece of aluminum diamond plate to extend the ramp 48". I'll use a set of jack stands to hold up the edge of the existing ramp and the added diamond plate will make the transition much easier. - BigDogF250ExplorerDepending on how bad, lift the nose of the trailer. That will lower the back end, creating less of an angle change at the door. Also lessens the angle of the ramp.
- BraveheartExplorerWhat about building a ramp that lays on top of the toy hauler ramp that reduces the angle? It would only need to be as wide as you need to drive up. You could also lift the ramp by placing a few 4x4 under it to reduce the angle and then build a ramp that overlays the THers ramp.
Another option.... Lift the ramp 10-12" (what ever height needed) support the underneath side with blocks or jacks, metal feet, etc. then make a ramp extension from and attach it with heavy duty piano hinge.
I would assume someone has a better solution, but this is one. - boogie_4wheelExplorerPlace one or two 2x4 blocks under the ramp ground pads to raise the ramp up slightly; bike should have no issue climbing a small 'curb' to get onto the ramp.
Stand up off of the bike as you breakover to the trailer floor (to take load off of the suspension.
Lift the nose of the trailer some to reduce the breakover angle, or place truck rear tires on blocks/ramps to lift front of trailer. - fj12ryderExplorer IIIIf I had that problem, I would add a hinged plate that would support the weight of the bikes as they roll over it, and could be swung out to make the door longer. Then put supports under the door's upper edge to raise it enough so you can transition into the toyhauler. It would take a little longer to set up, but not that bad.
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