Forum Discussion

B_O__Plenty's avatar
B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Jun 26, 2015

Cable pulls out but won't push in

Dealing with a gray tank valve that's stuck open. I opened the Cloroplast and found the valve. I can push the valve closed by hand. The wire inner cable is tight and moves with the valve and the handle in the cabinet goes in like it's supposed to. I can then pull the handle and the valve opens. When I go to push the handle in to close the valve it acts like it's disconnected. The housing is tight where it connects to the valve and the wire is tight where attached to the plunger for the valve. What am I missing?

B.O.
  • golf_bears's avatar
    golf_bears
    Explorer
    Jun 27, 2015
    I had the same problem. Valve closes by hand, the cable works to open the valve but the cable will not close the valve.

    My problem and I suspect yours, is that the cable housing has pulled apart (unraveled) from where it connects to the fire wall mounting close to the handle. So every time you push on the handle the cable and housing both move. Just buy a new cable and replace the old one. Solved my problem.

    Here check out what Amazon has.

    Waste Valve Cables.
  • Allworth's avatar
    Allworth
    Explorer II
    Jun 27, 2015
    You may be able to use a lawn mower throttle cable. A heavy duty one from a commercial mower repair shop, not a big-box special.
  • B_O__Plenty's avatar
    B_O__Plenty
    Explorer II
    Jun 27, 2015
    HappyKayakers wrote:
    B.O. Plenty wrote:
    Thanks for all the replies. Found the problem. The cable housing has pulled out from the barrel located at the top of the cable right behind where it goes through the wall. When I pulled on the cable it slid into place and worked. When I pushed on it the whole outer housing moved away. If I can't re-crimp it back into place,(like that's likely to happen) it's new cable time. I priced one onlne they're sure proud of those things...

    B.O.


    This sounds like the same problem I had a few years ago. Someone on another forum had a DIY fix for it. Get about a 3" length of 1/4" all thread and a couple of small hose clamps. Position the all thread next to the outer housing and the cable, like a splint. Tighten clamps and test. Good luck.
    $50.00 for a new cable! Outrageous the way they try to fleece you on this stuff. I'll give you solution a try. Thank you.

    B.O.
  • HappyKayakers's avatar
    HappyKayakers
    Explorer III
    Jun 27, 2015
    B.O. Plenty wrote:
    Thanks for all the replies. Found the problem. The cable housing has pulled out from the barrel located at the top of the cable right behind where it goes through the wall. When I pulled on the cable it slid into place and worked. When I pushed on it the whole outer housing moved away. If I can't re-crimp it back into place,(like that's likely to happen) it's new cable time. I priced one onlne they're sure proud of those things...

    B.O.


    This sounds like the same problem I had a few years ago. Someone on another forum had a DIY fix for it. Get about a 3" length of 1/4" all thread and a couple of small hose clamps. Position the all thread next to the outer housing and the cable, like a splint. Tighten clamps and test. Good luck.
  • FlatBroke's avatar
    FlatBroke
    Explorer II
    Jun 27, 2015
    Trouble with most of these new trailers they put everything in a docking station. Most times the dump cables are bent and directed in awkward places. I have seen cables twice as long as they need to be instead of cutting them to length. Making them difficult to operate. I would rather have my dump handles several feet apart with short straight runs. Fortunately The cables in my latest trailer are as smooth as butter.
  • B_O__Plenty's avatar
    B_O__Plenty
    Explorer II
    Jun 27, 2015
    Thanks for all the replies. Found the problem. The cable housing has pulled out from the barrel located at the top of the cable right behind where it goes through the wall. When I pulled on the cable it slid into place and worked. When I pushed on it the whole outer housing moved away. If I can't re-crimp it back into place,(like that's likely to happen) it's new cable time. I priced one onlne they're sure proud of those things...

    B.O.
  • Gunpilot77's avatar
    Gunpilot77
    Explorer
    Jun 27, 2015
    I got so tired of replacing cables on my last 5er (a Monaco McKenzie) that I tore all the drain plumbing out and reinstalled new drain lines routed along the frame, drilled a couple holes for the handles and used simple blade valves. Much to my chagrin, my new 5er has cables too.:(
  • therink's avatar
    therink
    Explorer
    Jun 26, 2015
    Check to see if the cable has an unusual or sharp turn on it. Sometimes moving the cable by hand so it flexes or curves in a different direction helps. I adjusted one of my cables a while back and helped the inner cable move more freely.
  • BTPO1's avatar
    BTPO1
    Explorer
    Jun 26, 2015
    Sometimes when the cable is fixed the holding device breaks and the cable will move instead of sliding. You might want to check that along with what Old-Biscuit mentioned.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Jun 26, 2015
    Cable operated valve.......you push and cable bends vs pushing valve stem in.

    Unless cable has a straight, taunt run to valve or is 'fixed'/held in position the cable can flex when wire inside binds even in the slightest

    Spraying lubricant down inside cable helps....if you can get it to flow by spraying while moving wire back/forth.
    Dry graphite is good lubricant.

    I have found that once they start flexing......time to replace with new.

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