Goldwing in the garage

All good advice so far. I will also unload in road if site is going to drastically increase the ramp angle. I have also raised the nose up after unhooking. As mentioned earlier also have to watch out for a wet ramp. I solved that by coating my ramp with herculiner bed paint. Solved the wet ramp problem.

taken wrote:
IMHO, if you've ridden even a short amount of time this should be a non-issue. Riding on as many have said is like riding down your driveway. VERY easy. Backing off is almost as easy just a different process. When backing off have the bike off and in 1st gear. Use the front brake and clutch to slow you down and creep backwards with both feet down. I never even tried to use my back brake as it would take one foot off the ground. The only part that you have to be deliberate and confident about is at the bottom of the ramp. When the back tire is on the ground a couple of feet back from the ramp and the front tire is still up on the ramp, unless you are VERY tall your feet won't be able to touch so you have to just roll through it balanced. Granted it's scary the first time but never again after you succeed.

I concur 100% and will add that with a GW if you use reverse it acts like a brake.

IMHO, if you've ridden even a short amount of time this should be a non-issue. Riding on as many have said is like riding down your driveway. VERY easy. Backing off is almost as easy just a different process. When backing off have the bike not running and in 1st gear. Use the front brake and clutch to slow you down and creep backwards with both feet down. I never even tried to use my back brake as it would take one foot off the ground. The only part that you have to be deliberate and confident about is at the bottom of the ramp. When the back tire is on the ground a couple of feet back from the ramp and the front tire is still up on the ramp, unless you are VERY tall, your feet won't be able to touch. So, you have to just roll through it balanced. Granted it's scary the first time but never again after you succeed.

I have a Voltage 3600 toy hauler and had no trouble loading or unloading my 2009 BMW K1300GT. It's clearance was spec'd at 4.6" and a wheelbase of 61.6" The goldwing has a clearance of 4.9" and a wheelbase of 66.6". The angle is close to the same.

azdryheat,
As seen in my sig, I have voltage 3200 and both a GL1500 and Yamaha Venture. We don't take them at the same time, only one at a time, depending on where we are going or who is with.

In the years we have had the trailer, we have had no problems getting the wing into the garage. We use the Condor wheel chock and it works with either motorcycle. We also do not have the wheel chock attached to the floor, it just sits in the middle of the trailer up against the sliding door.

When going in I get up enough speed to carry my up the ramp and almost all the way into the trailer. At that point I can ease the bike into the wheel chock. Works with either bike.

When backing out I do two things. With GL and reverse, I use reverse to get the bike out of the chock and then let the bike roll down the ramp without the reverse engaged. The venture is another story that you are not interested in.

Good luck with the new trailer and have fun.

afishinado wrote:

randy328 wrote:
........
We walk them up, engine running in first gear, nice and steady, appropriate use of clutch to go slow and smooth, usually (but not always) with a spotter at the tail. Coming down, we back them slowly down the ramp, engine off, first gear, and use the clutch to smoothly control the descent - not the front brake, which most people try to do - the front brake won't hold a heavy bike on the ramp material.

I just learned something.. Makes total sense. I never had a issue on the utility trailer with expanded metal ramp, but the toy hauler's ramp is another story entirely I'm sure!
I thank you, my wife thanks you, and I'm sure our two Harleys thank you too!

Just a caveat: don't use the clutch if you're moving too quickly. You don't want to reverse the engine rotation. It may not be good for your particular bike.

If a toyhauler's ramp angle doesn't allow you to ride your heavy bike in and out when the toyhauler is parked on level ground don't buy it.

I ride them in (Gold Wing, Tiger, KLR, etc.) and out by myself - I take a short run to the ramp, eyes up on a point on the wall directly above the chock, dangle the feet, slip the clutch to avoid stalling, 2 fingers covering the front brake so I can stop and up and into the trailer we go...

I ride out, engine off, trans in gear, using the front brake / clutch method to control the descent. Once the whole bike is on the ramp I let it roll to ensure it does not stop at the oh no! point with back wheel on the ground front wheel on the ramp and you can't reach the ground with a foot.. you are going to tip over if you end up here.

Sport bikes and lightweights we push in and out. This takes experience and is best not done in flip flops. I always step into my riding boots when loading and unloading to protect the feets.

Practicing low speed clutching and 2 finger front braking without stalling before you ride up a ramp for the first time is a good thing.

Being all nervous and tentative stops and starts and fartin' around will get you in trouble.

I have a 08 3812 Raptor pretty steep. I drive it up the ramp at speed soon as both wheels are on the ramp i brake and duck walk it into the Baxter receiver lock it down. If your legs are long enough to keep the rear end at 9 lbs you'll have no problems and I use reverse to bring it down, when you get the rear wheel off the ramp the bank sensor on the bike will automatically stop pull your hand brake take out of reverse and just coast back the I put the wives 1100 Vstar in but can walk it up from the street, keep your butt on the seat wing or your rear wheel will spin on you I'm 68 5/11

randy328 wrote:
........
We walk them up, engine running in first gear, nice and steady, appropriate use of clutch to go slow and smooth, usually (but not always) with a spotter at the tail. Coming down, we back them slowly down the ramp, engine off, first gear, and use the clutch to smoothly control the descent - not the front brake, which most people try to do - the front brake won't hold a heavy bike on the ramp material.

I just learned something.. Makes total sense. I never had a issue on the utility trailer with expanded metal ramp, but the toy hauler's ramp is another story entirely I'm sure!
I thank you, my wife thanks you, and I'm sure our two Harleys thank you too!

I have a Voltage 3600, and ride a Honda Valkyrie in and out all the time. It has a Beavertail, which helps. Just be sure the site is either level, or slightly higher behind the trailer. If the ground drops away at the rear, the ramp gets too steep.
I have, when necessary, raised the middle and rear jacks, and then raised the front end with the jacks up front. That lowers the rear.