Hot water heater

The special "wrench" you need cost about $5 at the hardware store and they usually have them right next to the elements. Just stamped out of cheap aluminum. A socket can work, but it's usually cheaper to buy the special one as it's lot's cheaper than a comparable sized socket. The thin nut isn't an issue, but clearance can be at a premium around the nut and a full size socket may not fit.

The disconnected element in a drained heater should measure infinity if it is bad. You will need a special element socket to remove it, since the nut is so thin most normal sockets won't stay on it.

Is it possible for the electric portion of the water heater to work and not the gas part. Seems to be working now. I did turn the switch on that is on the outside. I’m not hearing the gas part kick on.

Will changing the element fix this?

What’s the ohms reading when you check element?

With Suburban water heaters an additional inside on/off switch for electric by installing another one in 'series' with outside OEM one

Run AC wire from circuit breaker to new switch then out from new switch and tie in with OEM wire to outside switch

Easily done close by backside of water heater where the AC Junction box is located.





As for that Hot Water Heater
Define HOT
After initial fill/heating cycle the water is still HOT when reheating cycle occurs.

I'm undecided about the more convenient switch inside. I had thought about it and concluded that I would be more likely to forget to turn it off, and would burn out the heating element more often than I do now. Maybe a switch with a light, and in a very conspicuous place might work, but I haven't convinced myself, and also looks like a bit of a pain to run the wires.

The present switch is just inside the water heater outside door, and is right near the hose connection. Now I get in the habit of turning the switch on/off when I hook up or unhook the hose. It's easy to remember because I'm right there to do it. But sure can't argue the convenience of having it inside.

On some models, there are two switches, with one inside. IIRC, you still need to have outside one in the on position, for the inside to switch on/off. If on the inside, it may be more likely to get switched on when empty, by an unknown person/kids.

I think you could run wires from outside switch, bypassing it to an inside switch, location of your choosing, if you really want to do it.

Jerry

I recently had the same thing happen, just haven't gotten around to changing out the element. The electric switch is in a really inconvenient spot to both turn on/off and remember to do so. How does one go about installing a switch inside the trailer to do the same thing as the outside switch on the heater?

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Keystone uses Suburban Water Heaters so electric element is easy to change

Turn 120V AC Circuit Breaker OFF
Turn water supply OFF
Drain water heater....remove anode rod
Remove burner tube for EASY access to element
Remove cover on element
Use voltmeter and verify NO AC
Remove Black & White wires from element terminals
Use a 1 1/2" socket to unscrew element

Suburban uses a 120V AC 1440W element....replace with 1400W from Hardware Store

Another helpful post, with great picture, from Old-Biscuit!! This element issue happens often, and I'm sure many besides the OP, will get the benefit from this post.

The forum has received many such posts from Old-Biscuit, and just want to say thanks for sharing your expertise with all of us!

Jerry

Thanks for all the info!