JT strongs

that's how I finished it
thanks

I shoot for half and half.

finally finished. all connected and took out blocks. ran the jack down, and it almost fell out. only had about 2 inches left inside.
need to make adjustments
my trailer is 23" high.
how do I figure how much of the inside slide is supposed to be extended and how far the outside piece should be down.

thanks.

well I just went out to start. seems easy. first thing is the front jacks have the holes 90 degrees out. might have worked, but I dropped the jacks out, and cleaned them and then put them back. now the hardware will work as instructions. I did do a good cleaning, now will have to grease them. what is really needed

I agree why carry big blocks when the JT's or similar products work so well. We sit for 6 months and just use a 8x8" 3/4 plywood and a 8x8" orange block on each front landing gear.

chevman

I just cannot see sugging behemoth blocking material around and then having to lug it and out of place.

I have Winfield's on my front legs. Stable as a rock. if the site has slope, that is what I thought the multiple holes in the legs were for.

The leg feet go directly on the ground if it is hard pack or on one 1 foot 2X6 is i need a bigger footprint.

I just do not understand all the blocking, but that is just me.

I guess it would depend on how much you want to tote around those heavy things. :) Me, I'd get tired of messing with those if I didn't have to.

Keep the blocks. My blocks are only about half the height of yours. But shorter legs and JTs are a good combination.

If I remember right I attached my JT's to the bottom hole of legs and they worked just fine. Don't have that RV any longer and the new one has "SteadyFast" either way they are better than not having anything.

When you push on the side of your cap does it rock side to side with the blocks under the front legs? I never used blocks, but it would shake the trailer, tighten down the JT's and no more shaking.

-Bryan