on our 5er, there is a considerable length of pipe between the black water tank valve and the connection for the dump hose. as much as 5 feet or more. between the black water valve and the connection for the stinky slinky, there always seems to be some surprise liquid. open that end cap and be prepared to wish your shoes off! it's just enough to make a mess. Maybe a quart. I have been looking at putting another valve right at the dump hose connection on the 5er to ensure nothing comes out before I'm good and ready. would I be better served to just cut off the current bayonet end and cement on a new valve, or will I get an adequate seal with a twist lock type valve that replaces the current cap?

Our 5er has the same issue. Annoying as anything. We went onto Amazon and purchased a twist on valve and so far has been worth it. We have had it on for over a year and no issues. Nice cheap and easy fix for the time being.

You will get a adequate seal with the twist lock. JMHO

We have about the same distance of pipe. But I don't have that problem. I usually flush thoroughly with water before disconnecting.But I do have another concern. With the valves being inside the tank with a cable mechanism to open and close. If it ever breaks when it is closed how do you get it open. So after you put the twist lock valve on do you still use your other valve or do you just leave it open.

If the new valve does not hang too low, I see no reason why it would not work. Why not look for a new snap on valve that has a section of clear pipe so you can see what's actually coming out, similar to a Flush King style? I use a 3rd valve to backflush the grey water into the black tank. That clear section is priceless to see what's going on.

Toolguy5 wrote:We have about the same distance of pipe. But I don't have that problem. I usually flush thoroughly with water before disconnecting.But I do have another concern. With the valves being inside the tank with a cable mechanism to open and close. If it ever breaks when it is closed how do you get it open. So after you put the twist lock valve on do you still use your other valve or do you just leave it open.The new valve doesn't replace the function of any the original valves. it's just one last "line of defense" from anything that might be lurking in the behind the current cap.

little surprise every time we dump the tanks | Good Sam Community

Nicholsfamily05
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
Our 5er has the same issue. Annoying as anything.
We went onto Amazon and purchased a twist on valve and so far has been worth it.
We have had it on for over a year and no issues. Nice cheap and easy fix for the time being.
dave17352
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
You will get a adequate seal with the twist lock. JMHO
Toolguy5
Explorer III
Jun 23, 2016
We have about the same distance of pipe. But I don't have that problem. I usually flush thoroughly with water before disconnecting.
But I do have another concern. With the valves being inside the tank with a cable mechanism to open and close. If it ever breaks when it is closed how do you get it open.
So after you put the twist lock valve on do you still use your other valve or do you just leave it open.
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
If the new valve does not hang too low, I see no reason why it would not work. Why not look for a new snap on valve that has a section of clear pipe so you can see what's actually coming out, similar to a Flush King style?

I use a 3rd valve to backflush the grey water into the black tank. That clear section is priceless to see what's going on.
aviator41
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
Toolguy5 wrote:
We have about the same distance of pipe. But I don't have that problem. I usually flush thoroughly with water before disconnecting.
But I do have another concern. With the valves being inside the tank with a cable mechanism to open and close. If it ever breaks when it is closed how do you get it open.
So after you put the twist lock valve on do you still use your other valve or do you just leave it open.

The new valve doesn't replace the function of any the original valves. it's just one last "line of defense" from anything that might be lurking in the behind the current cap.
aviator41
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
DutchmenSport wrote:
If the new valve does not hang too low, I see no reason why it would not work. Why not look for a new snap on valve that has a section of clear pipe so you can see what's actually coming out, similar to a Flush King style?

I use a 3rd valve to backflush the grey water into the black tank. That clear section is priceless to see what's going on.

We use a clear 45 elbow right now, it was the first accessory I bought for this new camper. indispensable piece of kit.
garyp4951
Explorer III
Jun 23, 2016
My Cedar Creek used to dump about a pint of clear water every time I removed the cap, and I never figured it out.
Splashers3
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
I've used the twist on valve about 4 years because I had the same problem. It still works like a champ!
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
I will say, when I started reading the OP's original post, and I got to that part about 5 feet of pipe, the though immediately ran through my head, what kind of animal crawled up the pipe and came flushing out into the sewer line the campground had to dig out. That's funny how your brain can function so fast and see images even before finishing reading a sentence!
MarkTwain
Explorer
Jun 23, 2016
Leaking sewer line----
Go to camping world for a "sliding gate" that hooks directly permanently to your current sewer line.

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little surprise every time we dump the tanks

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