RV Crushes Truck

This discussion has gone on for 29 pages with the same statements being repeated over and over again. I think we all get the idea by now. If you disagree with one of the posters for some reason, take it to PM's. I, for one, am tired of reading the same old arguments again and again with no new information.
If the OP decides a new video is in order, then he can start a new thread.
Thread closed.

Me Again wrote:
Turning the handle when closed is not locking it. The act of turning the handle is to prop it open for coupling, when you back into it correctly it contacts a mechanism that releases it to slide closed under spring tension. If the flange of the king pin does not interfere with the latch mechanism the handle will pop all the way in under spring tension. Putting a pin or padlock in it when in is locking it. I never saw it all the way in, in the early video's.

I guess you didn't go back and watch, and listen to him at 14:55 of the third video . Its apparent he locked it manually . I don't care what its supposed to do , he locked it manual it was in the open position AFTER he backed in . If you listen to what he said, you might not want to keep insisting on what YOU think the hitch is supposed to do .

Turning the handle when closed is not locking it. The act of turning the handle is to prop it open for coupling, when you back into it correctly it contacts a mechanism that releases it to slide closed under spring tension. If the flange of the king pin does not interfere with the latch mechanism the handle will pop all the way in under spring tension. Putting a pin or padlock in it when in is locking it. I never saw it all the way in, in the early video's.

Me Again wrote:

RCMAN46 wrote:


But in this case the OP did not close the hitch plain and simple.

I am not sure that is a correct statement. When connected correctly the lever will go in all the way by it's self(it is spring loaded to be in). That is why when pulled out you turn it down to keep it open in preparation for coupling up.

My Hi-Jacker worked in a similar way.

If the King Pin is high then the head does not latch properly and the handle is still out part way, as it cannot pop into to the latched position. The lower larger area of the King Pin is interfering with the latch mechanism, which is one of the forms of high hitched. Chris

" I am not sure that is a correct statement "

Go back to the third video to 14:55, watch ,and listen to what he said. I don't know much about that hitch, but it sure appears he has to manually lock that hitch . Its apparent he locked it manually by turning the handle ,and in it went,and then he pinned it. Its possible after he backed in ,and it automatically closed , he pulled it open ,and locked it, and that was not shown. Then he showed making sure it was locked ,and pinned . But if you listen to him he plainly said that is something he didn't have to do with his other hitch, so to me he referring to having to manually lock that hitch. You tell me what you see ,and hear .

RCMAN46 wrote:
"Lets do this, yes it was high hitched , if thats what it will take, but in the classic sense , no it was not high hitched, but lets use that . My point was there was no gap ."

Lets assume for argument that we have 4 extra slip discs. That will not allow the subject hitch or any hitch to latch. There will still not be a gap. I would call that a high hitch even though the pin is not on top of the jaws.

But in this case the OP did not close the hitch plain and simple.

It would not matter what hitch is used including the B&W it would result in a dropped trailer. Now it will be said that that can not happen with a B&W as the arm would be open. But if you look at this picture it is clear the subject arm was also in the locked open position.



In this picture I believe you can see the pin just to the left of the jaw. You should not be able to see the pin when the hitch is closed and latched.



There was nothing wrong with the hitch is was an operator error.

The guy backed in correctly as far as we know, he pushed down on the hitch slightly, so again you call it high hitch, he!! I don't care what you call it. I get it why you want to call it high hitched, what other terminology would you use ,besides his total lack of awareness.

Sure it was operator error, the hitch didn't malfunction. I sure hope thats obvious to everyone.
They took the **** disk off ,and all was well.

When I back in to the hitch only a slight distance of space shows between the hit and the pin plate and the jaws open and close and the alpenlite didn't have a clue it was hitched. Very smooth way we do the hook up.

chevman

RCMAN46 wrote:


But in this case the OP did not close the hitch plain and simple.

I am not sure that is a correct statement. When connected correctly the lever will go in all the way by it's self(it is spring loaded to be in). That is why when pulled out you turn it down to keep it open in preparation for coupling up.

My Hi-Jacker worked in a similar way.

If the King Pin is high then the head does not latch properly and the handle is still out part way, as it cannot pop into to the latched position. The lower larger area of the King Pin is interfering with the latch mechanism, which is one of the forms of high hitched. Chris

"Lets do this, yes it was high hitched , if thats what it will take, but in the classic sense , no it was not high hitched, but lets use that . My point was there was no gap ."

Lets assume for argument that we have 4 extra slip discs. That will not allow the subject hitch or any hitch to latch. There will still not be a gap. I would call that a high hitch even though the pin is not on top of the jaws.

But in this case the OP did not close the hitch plain and simple.

It would not matter what hitch is used including the B&W it would result in a dropped trailer. Now it will be said that that can not happen with a B&W as the arm would be open. But if you look at this picture it is clear the subject arm was also in the locked open position.



In this picture I believe you can see the pin just to the left of the jaw. You should not be able to see the pin when the hitch is closed and latched.



There was nothing wrong with the hitch is was an operator error.

Me Again wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:

Snip...

Their is one fact here, he put a bind on the handle closing. The handle would not close, he pulled out ,and dropped the fifth wheel . I will repeat, saw it first hand in Montana two summers ago in a small RV park , same thing, except he realized his handle was not closing. The disk plate was banged up a little ,and was warped , holding it up just enough to put a bind on the handle. Took the disc off ,all was good. Handle closed ,and off he went.



.

I glad the you acknowledge that to many slip discs can cause a high hitch condition.

What we do not know is the full sequence, as the video is highly edited. RCMAN46's one photo shows what appears to be a sliding bar behind the king pin at some point in the sequence.

Update: Part #3 is now available. Extra slip disc seemed to be causing the problem of not latching correctly, cause a higher than normal hitch up and create the uncoupling problems, when he finally got it hitched.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHsVk46MR_M&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR05m4NJHFSnmU0Ia2bpX0uYyieSzlk2qh04cmobtZPM0jY5_iId0JFk_IQ

You may have to back it up to the beginning.

Also, I can not find documentation on the older Husky 24K EZ Roller. However the latch handle does not have enough travel to be a true sliding bar hitch. Final concussion is that the extra slip disc caused it to be to high to latch correctly. Truly a case that a tug test would have exposed.

Lets do this, yes it was high hitched , if thats what it will take, but in the classic sense , no it was not high hitched, but lets use that . My point was there was no gap .

There was no seem to be the problem, the extra disc was the problem from the start. I don't need to back up from the beginning . I acknowledged early on that I saw it first hand in Montana a couple years ago, as far as that disc not letting the handle close, he was backing in, and actually pushing the truck down an inch or so ,just like he was supposed too, the handle just would not close all the way .

If you will hear the guy in the video acknowledge that he backed in with the two together, at least he thought he did the first time. He made that comment in the third video. At that point the guy didn't know what he did. But he was aware that he needed to push the two together as he backed in. So in the classic sense there was no high hitching going on, where you are leaving a gap between hitch ,and pin box.

cummins2014 wrote:

Snip...

Their is one fact here, he put a bind on the handle closing. The handle would not close, he pulled out ,and dropped the fifth wheel . I will repeat, saw it first hand in Montana two summers ago in a small RV park , same thing, except he realized his handle was not closing. The disk plate was banged up a little ,and was warped , holding it up just enough to put a bind on the handle. Took the disc off ,all was good. Handle closed ,and off he went.



.

I glad the you acknowledge that to many slip discs can cause a high hitch condition.

What we do not know is the full sequence, as the video is highly edited. RCMAN46's one photo shows what appears to be a sliding bar behind the king pin at some point in the sequence.

Update: Part #3 is now available. Extra slip disc seemed to be causing the problem of not latching correctly, cause a higher than normal hitch up and create the uncoupling problems, when he finally got it hitched.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHsVk46MR_M&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR05m4NJHFSnmU0Ia2bpX0uYyieSzlk2qh04cmobtZPM0jY5_iId0JFk_IQ

You may have to back it up to the beginning.

Also, I can not find documentation on the older Husky 24K EZ Roller. However the latch handle does not have enough travel to be a true sliding bar hitch. Final concussion is that the extra slip disc caused it to be to high to latch correctly. Truly a case that a tug test would have exposed.