Slop in the hitch

If it has a slide bar instead of jaws yes there is likely to be a small amount of play

I've used a Reese for a number of years, and yes it would bump starting and stopping. really did not like trying to get it to unhitch. Went to a Pullright slider, and realized there is a better hitch out there. When I bought the DRW long bed decided to go with standard hitch. RV repair guy talked me into the B&W. Purchased the puck system hitch, and could not believe the difference. Guess I'm the 2nd poster to bring up the B&W hitches. Sorry but its true.

Goostoff wrote:
OK I guess I will be the first to say it. Get a B&W and forget about it

This is unusual , its usually a certain member. Looks like he has added some converts to the cheerleading squad. :B

Goostoff wrote:
OK I guess I will be the first to say it. Get a B&W and forget about it

Ditto

Tennessee_Nomad wrote:

Goostoff wrote:
OK I guess I will be the first to say it. Get a B&W and forget about it

Ditto

Same results here...Not trying to be a cheerleader but this is best working hitch I've ever seen..

B.O.

It could also be driving habits, fully stopped and floor it when green. Try changing your small pedal response to (feather) your take off. My last Reese was a slider and it had lots of slop but I learned to drive it as to not bang on take off. Usually stopping banging is a brake controller or brake issue. Trailer brakes should be adjusted to brake before the TV brakes. Then the king pin never moves forward the little bit that they can. Of course it could also be a hitch in need of repair or replacement. Photos would be nice.

B.O. Plenty wrote:

Tennessee_Nomad wrote:

Goostoff wrote:
OK I guess I will be the first to say it. Get a B&W and forget about it

Ditto

Same results here...Not trying to be a cheerleader but this is best working hitch I've ever seen..

B.O.

RAH-RAH-RAH
SIS-BOOM-BAH
B&W-CHA-CHA-CHA


how wast that?? Did I do it ok?..

To the OP, you could look at refurbishing the locking jaws and springs...I had a 20K Reese Signature hitch and when it started wearing, I replaced the jaws and springs and it helped quite a bit with the "chucking" you're experiencing:)

Lantley wrote:
My Hensley BD3 hitch uses a Holland Binkley head and has no slop. There are otherhitches available that have no slop

This has the same style head and has no slop.

Buster52 wrote:
I am new to 5th wheelers. I have noticed that there is more slack in the hitch then I have seen in a pull trailer. I have a Reese 30032 hitch. Is this normal? Is there a way to adjust the slack in a hitch?

When your locking arm is all the way in do you have to pull it out just a little to get the latch into the notch, if so remove some of the spacing washers until the arm is held in with no play in or out. With the jaw style Reese high because of the location of the pivot pins the jaws cannot come open under load but if the locking arm has any play it will allow the jaws to open just a small amount when the pin comes forward when stopping causing more clunk than normal when starting out.

Denny

I have the Reese with a slider and have noticed the same thing. I did not notice any banging before I added the slider option. In other words, the initial Reese jaws and mechanism was quiet. After buying a new 5th wheel I decided to also purchase the slider bracket rails just in case. So far I have never had to use it. Wish I had not spent the money to convert my hitch to a slider because this is when I noticed the banging when stopping or starting. However I have solved this problem by experimenting with different thickness shims I have made from sheet metal. I put them on the 4 legs of the hitch and make them as thick as possible to still enable the 4 pins to go in tightly. Experiment with different thickness shims to find what one you need then make some spares to carry. They will eventually wear out and become thin which will make the banging return.