Hi Guys, i have a winnebago 27rls (2016 Model). Everything i read said not to use the superlube axles feature as you run the risk of getting grease on your brakes. Its been about 10 years since i last packed bearings by hand. Is there anything special with the super lube axles that i have to know before i take them apart? Im assuming i can just pull the wheel off and the drum and i should have access to the bearings that way? Also should i replace the seals?My next step is to see if i have any paperwork on these axles to find the part number of the seals.

You will likely ruin the seal, when removing it, to access the rear bearing. It is best to replace seals. You can take the numbers off the axle placard, and call axle manufacturer, with that info. They will know what seals, by the numbers on axle, and can sell the proper ones to you, or advise where to purchase.Also, a good bearing/seal parts supply can likely match them up. I like having the proper new ones in hand, before removal, but that's just me.Lots of opinions on use of EZ-lube feature. I have used mine, with no issue, but have hand packed initially to know what grease is in there.Jerry

Nothing special, just a lot of grease to clean up if they used it from the factory or at PDI.

MFL wrote:You will likely ruin the seal, when removing it, to access the rear bearing. It is best to replace seals. You can take the numbers off the axle placard, and call axle manufacturer, with that info. They will know what seals, by the numbers on axle, and can sell the proper ones to you, or advise where to purchase.Also, a good bearing/seal parts supply can likely match them up. I like having the proper new ones in hand, before removal, but that's just me.Lots of opinions on use of EZ-lube feature. I have used mine, with no issue, but have hand packed initially to know what grease is in there.JerryTo know they are packed well and the bearings are greased using the superlube feature, one would have to pump a ton of grease to where it pushes out the front of the hub...otherwise how would we know we are even greasing the bearings at all? From what i've read pumping it full of grease is what can cause problems with getting grease on the brakes. How often are we supposed to be packing bearings anyways? The trailer has maybe 5000 miles if i were to guess and the manual says every 10,000. While its not a rush i wanted to inspect the grease situation anyways in the coming months. I have not heard of any vehicle needing bearings to be packed that often. On that same note though i also have not looked at any maintenance manuals for vehicles that weigh 9,000 lbs.my frustration from the manufacture of the axle assembly is the fact that they should be paying to repair brakes with grease on them. They are advertising a feature that is what sounds to be hit and miss...i would rather not take chances. How are they still in business?

If these are the same thing as E Z lube, the system can work if done properly. There is a video on the Dexter site simulating the principle behind the system. Yes, the biggest risk is blowing out the rear seal which in turn would contaminate the brakes. If you elect to try it, its best to do when its warm out and even better when the hubs are warm as in just having been on the road. Lay the grease gun in the sun, too so help soften the grease. Lift the rig or each wheel off the ground and have someone turn it the entire time you are slowly pumping grease into the hub. Continue to this until you see clean grease coming out of the front. As others have said, its best to pack bearings the old fashioned way.

pcm1959 wrote:If these are the same thing as E Z lube, the system can work if done properly. There is a video on the Dexter site simulating the principle behind the system. Yes, the biggest risk is blowing out the rear seal which in turn would contaminate the brakes. If you elect to try it, its best to do when its warm out and even better when the hubs are warm as in just having been on the road. Lay the grease gun in the sun, too so help soften the grease. Lift the rig or each wheel off the ground and have someone turn it the entire time you are slowly pumping grease into the hub. Continue to this until you see clean grease coming out of the front. As others have said, its best to pack bearings the old fashioned way.To be honest i havent even looked at the system yet. Its "superlube" which im pretty sure is lippert and likely dexters competitor. I will probably just stick with the old method of packing the bearings as it seems there are too many things that will go wrong...such as driving the trailer first, warm day. How warm? how long do you have to drive for? The MFG probably made this system to make assembly cheaper and less labor intensive. They will likely not fix the brakes if there was a problem which is more expensive than a few more labor hours to pull the drums off.

SuperLube Axles | Good Sam Community

kuziwk
Explorer
Jul 08, 2019
Cummins12V98 wrote:
The GOOD stuff!

Why is the NLGI grade important though? The grease i used is grade 1 but its actually thicker than some of the greases they recommended with grade 2. I imagine its thinner at work temperatures as its pretty good stuff to work with and pack the bearings but at the rated temps of 40 and 100 degrees Celsius its actually thicker. This leads me to believe that a thinner working temp will be less likely to blow out the rear seal if i choose to use the super lube/ ez lube function in the future. It also has 5% moly which is supposed to be good for heavy applications.

EDIT: i did speak with support at philips 66, i gave them the specs that lippert was asking for from the manual. He said im more than fine with the megaplex XD5 # 1. The consistency meets minimum thickness at operating temps (Minimum 150 SCT from the manual). The consistency is lower at ambient temp but he was in agreement that it will make it less likely to pop out the rear bearing seal when using the ez lube system. The only issue he said might be if you were using this in a hi speed situation where the bearings are out in the open which might cause the grease to fling off. Even than though if that were the case the grease that lippert specified is thinner at 40 degrees C which would fling faster.

The main things as far as im concerned:

Dropping point
viscosity index
viscosity at 40C and 100C

the megaplex XD5 exceeded all of these and has the added 5% moly which will further lubricate.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 07, 2019
The GOOD stuff!
kuziwk
Explorer
Jul 07, 2019
Just checked the data sheets and compared it to multiplex red #2. Looks like the megaplex #1 is actually a little thicker (higher SCi index) At both 40c and 100c. So this should be good news.
kuziwk
Explorer
Jul 07, 2019
Lynnmor wrote:
More thickener in #2 so it will stay in the bearing better. Good LUCK.

So too thin? I check the viscosity at 40 degrees Celsius from the spec sheet and it seems fine, I think the benefit of the grease I have is it's not as thick at colder temps and suitable for winter.

I'm likely going to pull them next year anyways again just to see how they are doing and probably swap in some #2 grease instead. I'm sure for the 1000 miles I have yet this year to drive the unit it should be fine.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Jul 07, 2019
More thickener in #2 so it will stay in the bearing better. Good LUCK.
kuziwk
Explorer
Jul 07, 2019
ALright so i got the job done, i used the wrong grease though. I used Philips/Conoco 66 Megaplex XD5 Grade #1 with 5% moly. I used grade 1 only because it matched the spec in the manual closest to the viscosity at the temperature specified. Does anyone see any problems with this grease? Its also thinner and more workable at cold temperatures so i thought it would make it substantially easier to use the EZ lube feature if I wanted to and reduce the chances of grease popping the seal out. Its actually a construction equipment Lube and i use something very similar on my front end loader tractor. It has a very high dropping point. It says great for wheels bearings on heavy equipment where shock loading or heavy duty is a requirement.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Jul 06, 2019
TxGearhead wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
May have something to do with the fact that very few RV's get dunked in salt water.

My point was that if they are good enough to run 7-10 years with no maintenance, while being submerged in salt water, they should be plenty good for a RV.
But perhaps also unnecessarily expensive.
TxGearhead
Explorer II
Jul 06, 2019
fj12ryder wrote:
May have something to do with the fact that very few RV's get dunked in salt water.

My point was that if they are good enough to run 7-10 years with no maintenance, while being submerged in salt water, they should be plenty good for a RV.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 05, 2019
fj12ryder wrote:
This is from the Dexter EZ-Lube manual:

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required, the following adjustment procedure must be followed.

For E-Z Lube® axles using the new nut retainer:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force).

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined flat on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly.

4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.

YUP
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Jul 05, 2019
This is from the Dexter EZ-Lube manual:

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required, the following adjustment procedure must be followed.

For E-Z Lube® axles using the new nut retainer:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force).

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined flat on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly.

4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.

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