2008 Winnebago View 24H - Tires/Suspension Question

I have a 2013 LTV Unity motorhome on the MB Sprinter 3500 chassis. I replaced the OEM struts and shocks with Koni reds. At the same time a Hellwig anti-sway bar and SumoSprings Solos front and rear were installed. If I were to do it over, I'd skip the Hellwig. On the road cornering is improved by the anti-sway bar, but going over uneven surfaces like driveways at an angle rocking is more pronounced. So I like what Old Crows is saying.

Firestone Transforce HT tires are a great replacement for the Conti Vancos.

Old Crows wrote:
AGC,

Here's my suggestions:

First, at 8 years and with unknown history on the tires, replace them. Folks love Michelin and they are good.... however, they are pricy. Sprinter OEMs are usually Continental VANCO Four Seasons. I've had two RVs (B and C) with Vancos. They are perfectly fine. Or you could go for Coopers or another brand. Check Tire Rack for ratings. Here's the thing to remember about RV tires.... they are expendable items. RV tires are subjected to a lot of abuse: punctures, loads, heat, sitting around, being used for thousands of miles and then sitting for a season. You have to have a different perspective. They will last about 5 - 8 years regardless of how many miles you put on them. They will AGE OUT long before they WEAR OUT. So buying a 60-70K mile tire when you put only 10K on them a year is not cost effective. Also, since they are subject to flats and other damages, a good solid economical tire THAT YOU CAN GET ANYWHERE is probably a better idea.

Next..... before jacking around with the Sprinter's suspension..... make sure the tire pressures are set to the PSI indicated on the door placard. MORE PSI above the placard PSI not better or advisable. Inflation above the placard rating will make the ride harsh. The tires are really part of the suspension "system" and you need the sidewall to flex and absorb road shocks.

The placard setting is for max GVWR. You are probably less (get your rig weighed when all up for a trip.... all aboard.... You should not be exceeding the GVWR.) If your are less than GVWR, you may consider reducing the PSI a lb. or two. Yes, you will hear a lot of preaching about fore/aft/left/right weighting and consulting the tire gospels for correct PSI based on individual axle weights. Yeh... that's cool. But who has time for that??? Just get it weighed to be sure you are not over GVWR and set the tires according to the placard. That will get you off to a good safe start.

((IF over GVWR... the answer is NOT to increase PSI.... The answer is to chuck stuff out of the RV to get the weight down.....)

NEXT.... Don't jack around with the suspension. You need to take a bunch of trips and put some miles on the RV to understand how it works and doesn't. There's always a rush to judgement about 'fixes' for an RV suspension. RVs are like barns on wheels. They are subject to a lot of different forces: wind loadings, road camber, road surface, higher center of gravity, fore and aft balance than a car or pickup. They are a different animal entirely. It would be wise to get to know your beast's quirks and plusses before messing with what is a pretty satisfactory set up provided by Mother Benz.

IME, with the View.... sort of a Carnival cruise liner on wheels.... the problem is side to side movement along the long axis. You see this when you step aboard through the coach hatch or walk about inside. It's like a boat on the water. The reasons are complex.... but more roll resistance is NOT THE ANSWER. E.g., bigger roll bars. If you think it rides rough now... bigger bars and harder shocks will not make you happy. The solution, to install SUMO SOLO absorbers front and rear. They will dampen in one direction without applying equal and opposite forces to the opposite side of the RV. BUT... put some miles on before making a change......

Basically, these RVs like to bob, wallow, and roll under certain conditions. It's their nature. Learn to drive a bit slower; anticipate road conditions; brake before corners not in them; accelerate out of the corner at the apex keeping everything balanced. Some gas station access points with deep swales or off camber sharp turns will create a lot of oscillation as the RV straightens. GO slowly! And if it gets too uncomfortable look to the SUMO SOLOS.

Last. These beasts will 'kick up their heels' on certain bumps because the rear suspension is stiff and it's lightly loaded. So... fill the fresh water tank.. to add some weight behind the rear axle.

A lot to think about...... just remember they are like 'Dumbo' the elephant traipsing down the highway in tutu and ballet shoes....... you can't make them into a Ferrari.

Safe travels.


I have a WBGO VIEW PROFILE 24G. If it is lightly l

LOTS of wisdom here!

I agree with Old Crows.

New tires aired up correctly. I have a 2014 24V (2013 chassis) with 30k and I have not added or changed anything to the suspension.

We love this motorhome, wish we had bought one years earlier. Hope you enjoy yours as much as we do ours. - Dale

Oh, another little tip. If you have grandchildren or other urchins such as we co, pay attention to:

1. Faucets. If you leave the water pump off, they will play with the faucets and leave them on. Suddenly after you turn on your water pump, you will have flooding.

2. There is a switch in the stepwell that turns off all the lights. Little fingers will play with that switch. Caught me twice already.

Don't take it off-road!

On our very first trip we went to the Quarzsite extravaganza. While looking for parking we went into a gravelly area where many cars were parked. Got bogged down in the gravel. I dug us out and drove us out, but it took more than an hour. With a shovel and removing my rear cargo box and with my compressor to re-inflate the tires, it was quite an experience.

AGC,

Here's my suggestions:

First, at 8 years and with unknown history on the tires, replace them. Folks love Michelin and they are good.... however, they are pricy. Sprinter OEMs are usually Continental VANCO Four Seasons. I've had two RVs (B and C) with Vancos. They are perfectly fine. Or you could go for Coopers or another brand. Check Tire Rack for ratings. Here's the thing to remember about RV tires.... they are expendable items. RV tires are subjected to a lot of abuse: punctures, loads, heat, sitting around, being used for thousands of miles and then sitting for a season. You have to have a different perspective. They will last about 5 - 8 years regardless of how many miles you put on them. They will AGE OUT long before they WEAR OUT. So buying a 60-70K mile tire when you put only 10K on them a year is not cost effective. Also, since they are subject to flats and other damages, a good solid economical tire THAT YOU CAN GET ANYWHERE is probably a better idea.

Next..... before jacking around with the Sprinter's suspension..... make sure the tire pressures are set to the PSI indicated on the door placard. MORE PSI above the placard PSI not better or advisable. Inflation above the placard rating will make the ride harsh. The tires are really part of the suspension "system" and you need the sidewall to flex and absorb road shocks.

The placard setting is for max GVWR. You are probably less (get your rig weighed when all up for a trip.... all aboard.... You should not be exceeding the GVWR.) If your are less than GVWR, you may consider reducing the PSI a lb. or two. Yes, you will hear a lot of preaching about fore/aft/left/right weighting and consulting the tire gospels for correct PSI based on individual axle weights. Yeh... that's cool. But who has time for that??? Just get it weighed to be sure you are not over GVWR and set the tires according to the placard. That will get you off to a good safe start.

((IF over GVWR... the answer is NOT to increase PSI.... The answer is to chuck stuff out of the RV to get the weight down.....)

NEXT.... Don't jack around with the suspension. You need to take a bunch of trips and put some miles on the RV to understand how it works and doesn't. There's always a rush to judgement about 'fixes' for an RV suspension. RVs are like barns on wheels. They are subject to a lot of different forces: wind loadings, road camber, road surface, higher center of gravity, fore and aft balance than a car or pickup. They are a different animal entirely. It would be wise to get to know your beast's quirks and plusses before messing with what is a pretty satisfactory set up provided by Mother Benz.

IME, with the View.... sort of a Carnival cruise liner on wheels.... the problem is side to side movement along the long axis. You see this when you step aboard through the coach hatch or walk about inside. It's like a boat on the water. The reasons are complex.... but more roll resistance is NOT THE ANSWER. E.g., bigger roll bars. If you think it rides rough now... bigger bars and harder shocks will not make you happy. The solution, to install SUMO SOLO absorbers front and rear. They will dampen in one direction without applying equal and opposite forces to the opposite side of the RV. BUT... put some miles on before making a change......

Basically, these RVs like to bob, wallow, and roll under certain conditions. It's their nature. Learn to drive a bit slower; anticipate road conditions; brake before corners not in them; accelerate out of the corner at the apex keeping everything balanced. Some gas station access points with deep swales or off camber sharp turns will create a lot of oscillation as the RV straightens. GO slowly! And if it gets too uncomfortable look to the SUMO SOLOS.

Last. These beasts will 'kick up their heels' on certain bumps because the rear suspension is stiff and it's lightly loaded. So... fill the fresh water tank.. to add some weight behind the rear axle.

A lot to think about...... just remember they are like 'Dumbo' the elephant traipsing down the highway in tutu and ballet shoes....... you can't make them into a Ferrari.

Safe travels.


I have a WBGO VIEW PROFILE 24G. If it is lightly l

TIRES NOW !!!!!
They are past useful life even with lots of tread. One blowout can cost thousands in rig damage.

For some reason I thought this chassis was a Ford, and answered accordingly. Sorry!
Your tires won't be anywhere near max on a Sprinter-based Class C, so I'd say shop for LTX M/S2 or TransForce.

I'd expect Sprinter to handle better than Ford. The Chevy fans'd be saying "What Doesn't?" but if your Sprinter felt vague on your trip home AND you had adequate tire pressure, I'd still say Sway Bar.

I'm sure somebody can chime in about Koni FSD shock availability for Sprinter. Those are the ones you really want if you want to Cadify (Benzify) your ride. With only 15000 miles I'd say wait on shocks/struts if they are NOT available now in FSD. See if they show up soon.

My original thought was just to change the tires, but while driving home from the dealer (1200 miles) and locally with my wife and kids we felt like the back was very bouncy and you definitely felt the sway when trucks passed or going on turns.

Didn't want my wife or kids to feel car sick and was trying to get ahead of it by upgrading the suspension. Last thing I want is everyone feeling sick after our first trip out and not wanting to go on another trip.

I also figured since they were replacing the tires, changing the suspension components would not add that much in labor cost.

We have a similar rig and would be happy to try to answer any questions.