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turbojimmy's avatar
turbojimmy
Explorer
Jul 22, 2014

454 Running Hot

So I just got back from my 2nd trip in my '84 Allegro. First trip was 300-miles RT in high-80 degree weather. Engine temps fluctuated but didn't enter the red zone until the last couple of mile from my house. I was trying to maintain a 45-MPH speed limit going up a long, steep hill. By the time I got to the top the needle was solidly in the red, but it recovered quickly once I crested the hill.

So the trip this past weekend was half the distance and it was 10-degrees cooler outside. I really wasn't too concerned with the temp until the last 20 miles of the trip. It seems to like lower speeds (50 MPH or less) better so I plan my routes accordingly. For this trip, I needed to get on an interstate highway for about 20 miles (65 MPH limit). The road leading up to the highway entrance was steep and long. By the time I merged onto the highway, the gauge was flirting with the red zone.

Thankfully the highway was fairly flat for a while and it cooled down a bit. Well, it wasn't long before I found myself climbing and climbing and climbing. By the time I got to my exit, it was in the red again. In my panicked state I thought I smelled antifreeze. Once I exited I pulled off into the shoulder. I checked the overflow and it wasn't boiling over. I let it idle for a bit with the clutch fan roaring. It cooled it down a little so I went on my way. At 35-40 MPH it cooled down almost immediately.

So it seems to not like highway speeds and hills. It recovers quick, but it's not really convenient to slow down to 40 MPH and drop a gear on a 65-MPH limit highway where everyone is moving at 80 MPH.

Looking at it, both the trans oil and the engine oil run through the radiator. I've gotten advice elsewhere that I should remove that hot oil from the radiator and install external coolers. It makes sense to me - opinions?

Also - would a cooler thermostat help? I have a stock-spec in it which is probably 190-210.

Last, there's no baffling in front of the radiator to direct air into it rather than around it. Should there be? There's a fan shroud and it's perfectly in tact. Clutch fan works, but it's not really relevant at highway speeds.

I have basically the same trip coming up in a couple of weeks and it's predicted to be a bit warmer ambient temp-wise. However, it doesn't really seem to be sensitive to ambient temps - it's the work it has to do that makes it hot.

50 Replies

  • Make sure the fan belt is tight. If it's loose, the resistance of the water against the impellers on the water pump make it the first thing to slip. Don't ask how I found out, and I was a mechanic for 15 years.
  • Gjac's avatar
    Gjac
    Explorer III
    Jimmy it is easy to just replace parts replace parts based on age. However I would start with the thermostat and see if it fully opens in boiling water. I think an 84 was a lower thermostat setting (180 degrees). They also sell HD thermostast with a small poppet hole to increase flow. The fact that your system recovers quickly is a good sign. I would buy a HF IR gun and check your thermostat housing and compare it to the temp sensor(sending unit) in the LH head. This will be your temp gauge reading. I found a 20 degree difference on mine. Gauge reading was 20 degrees higher than thermostat housing. Does the MH overheat at idle on a 85 degree day? The next thing I would do is once the engine comes up to temp is to shoot the inlet to the radiator that should be your highest reading then work your way across in a grid pattern to the outlet if you see any cold temp readings this would indicated a plug radiator, look closely where the fan clutch is in the center. If you get uniform decreasing temp readings with no cold spots and a 50 degree drop in temp from inlet to outlet I would conclude your radiator is good. If you haven't already back flushed the radiator with a garden hose at the outlet with the thermostat removed I would do that also. You will have to re-position the fan clutch to take these readings. If your thermostat is the correct one and is opening up all the way, and the radiator is good then I would install an air dam to force air through the radiator and prevent the air from going under or around the radiator. I used thin FG sheets to build mine. Headers and a free flow muffler will also reduce a lot of eng heat. Hope this helps let us know what you find.
  • I did finally have the radiator recored a few years ago. One thing that did help before the radiator recore was blocking up all of the exit areas. Once the air came in through the radiator it could go out through openings behind the grill area ( path of least resistance ). I used 1/4" hardware cloth and spray foam. Now all of the air that comes in through grill has to go through the radiator. One of the biggest problems with the age of the radiator is the fins pulling away from the tubes.
  • Thanks all for the tips.

    Here's another somewhat related question.

    What I thought was an external trans cooler mounted to the radiator is a poorly-installed power steering cooler. Someone slipped some 3/8" hose over the threaded end of the high-pressure hose to tap into the system. Naturally, it leaks. It's a pretty dangerous setup given the flash point of power steering fluid. I was thinking of taking the cooler out if it's not necessary. Opinions?
  • All good suggestions as to what may be the problem. I'd start with the least expensive and work my way up from there. It may just be the thermometer sensor is bad and giving you a false "high" reading. Since it is the original radiator, then a flush could/should be in order to make sure all the tubes inside it are clear and can circulate the water adequately. And it certainly wouldn't hurt to have an extra transmission cooler installed. Let us know what you find!
  • the bear II wrote:
    On my 454 the several times I had a heating issue it was:
    > I also discovered the factory temp guage read almost 20 degrees high. So when it showed 210 I was closer to 180.
    > Found a Royal Purple product that works well to help keep the temps down when going up hill or in stop and go traffic. It's called Wetter Water. Really works great. Available where auto supplies are sold.


    Thanks. I may be panicking for no reason. It hasn't actually boiled over yet. The stock gauge may not be all that accurate. I just have "C" and "H" with a redline toward the "H". Under most conditions the needle hovers near the center of the gauge.

    I used water wetter in my GN to keep it cool. It was bored .060 over and ran hot. Water wetter helped a lot. I'll try it!
  • MitchF150 wrote:
    What has been your maintenance schedule for the rad/coolant/engine in general?

    Sounds like you have either old coolant, old T-stat, plugged rad or other??

    Could even have a blown head gasket by the sounds of it??

    As to the other oil cooling going thru the rad, that's normally fine, but if you are heating up like you are on the coolant, it's also heating up those other fluids too... Not so much the other way around.

    Good luck!

    Mitch


    Thanks for the reply. I should have provided more info.

    I bought the RV with a blown engine. It had sat for at least 6 years in a tow yard. I put a 20k-mile 454 in it. New water pump, new hoses, new thermostat. The radiator is original. The coolant I took out of it looked good (no signs of corrosion or anything).
  • On my 454 the several times I had a heating issue it was:
    > Once- A bad theromstat
    > Twice- Bad Fan Clutch. Both seemed OK but once replaced heating issue went away. One did not work at low speeds, the other was allways on so it blocked the flow of air through the radiator at high speed.
    > Seam at top of radiator cracked and was allowing antifreeze to leak. I attributed this problem to overheating when the fan clutches were bad.
    > I also discovered the factory temp guage read almost 20 degrees high. So when it showed 210 I was closer to 180.
    > Found a Royal Purple product that works well to help keep the temps down when going up hill or in stop and go traffic. It's called Wetter Water. Really works great. Available where auto supplies are sold.
  • What has been your maintenance schedule for the rad/coolant/engine in general?

    Sounds like you have either old coolant, old T-stat, plugged rad or other??

    Could even have a blown head gasket by the sounds of it??

    As to the other oil cooling going thru the rad, that's normally fine, but if you are heating up like you are on the coolant, it's also heating up those other fluids too... Not so much the other way around.

    Good luck!

    Mitch