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vtraudt's avatar
vtraudt
Explorer
Sep 22, 2014

Cab over wood repair water damage rott

I need to replace the wood (front, bottom) of sleeper cabin above the chassis cab.

How is the floor connected to the chassis?
- to the cabin roof (sheet metal)
- to the 'bulk head' of the motorhome

My RV: 1995 Fleetwood Tioga 29ft Class C, Ford Econoline Chassis (7.5 liter V8)

7 Replies

  • bsinmich wrote:
    Part of the problem with the cabover is the fact that it is just hung out there from the rest of the MH body. It isn't connected to the roof with the exception of that little plastic trim around the space. Let a little water in and all that bouncing you have the problem you have now. Good Luck.


    I don't know about Fleetwood Tioga construction (the OP's), but Winnebago doesn't seem to just hang out the cabover areas in their Class C products.

    Note what the internal steel supports are doing in the left hand Super Structure Class C skeleton diagram near the bottom in this link (The same structure diagram was shown for our 2005 Itasca Class C - so Winnebago has been using this construction for quite some time.):

    http://www.gowinnebago.com/key_features/2015/superstructure/
  • If you look in the trim wood section, you might find what you need.

    I used aluminum backed, foam insulation from Home Depot. It was the right thickness and insulates well.

    Getting the stuff off is a matter of what your rig is made of. Mine was steel, so a grinder with cutting wheel and welding was my solution for the frame structure. The foam and wood was glued with some 3M rubber cement product. The adhesive info. is in my rebuild document.

    Jose
  • My floor and front wall structure is what appears 1.5x1 with 1" Styrofoam.
    Can't find 1.5 or 1 inch thick would. Only way I can think of: use 2x6 or 2x8 (about 1.5" thick) and rip 1" wide sections?
    Other suggestions?

    Haven't looked for 1" material. But if available in 1", I would like to use the stiffer/denser 'microfoam' (no sure what the name is) that has a hard top and bottom; mine was blue and alu (nice to cut; used it for insulation in my basement).
  • How to get it OFF (disconnected from the steel roof and potentially at the rear where it might tie into the wood structure)?

    I want to avoid damage to parts I need later on.
  • Part of the problem with the cabover is the fact that it is just hung out there from the rest of the MH body. It isn't connected to the roof with the exception of that little plastic trim around the space. Let a little water in and all that bouncing you have the problem you have now. Good Luck.
  • What I did on mine was I ripped out the
    thin ply and then I accessed the damage. I found that
    the floor/sleeper bottom was thin ply bonded to Styrofoam in mine.

    I also found that the over the cab part had aluminum
    framing on the sides. I went down the sides and I pop-ribbed
    3x3x1/8 aluminum angle the entire length of the floor
    on the wall side to the framework.

    Then want across the front and back the same way.
    Once boxed in with 3x3 aluminum I reinforced the good wood
    supports with aluminum angle and replaced/then reinforced
    the bad ones.

    So now I have an aluminum boxed in sleeper with aluminum
    supports. I replaced the foam insulation and used 7/16"
    exterior sheeting for the floor/bed bottom and painted both sides.

    On top of that I placed dense carpet padding, then the sleeper cushions.

    The aluminum and padding came form Home Depot / Loews.
    Bought an unfinished bunk bed ladder from Amazon and refinished
    that to match the wood.

    Holds my 215 lbs without a problem.
  • I am still working on the interior details of my cabover rebuild. Once you get the structural done, it is tough to stay motivated.

    At any rate, here is a link to the thread of my rebuild. In that thread you will see a link to a document I have been assembling as I go. It might have answers to some of your questions.

    Cabover rebuild thread

    Jose