campground leveling

Hi Phil,

How would you use 5 of the Anderson levelers? (not smart I am).

Why aren't five of those red Camper Levelers from Andersen.com needed, worst case, for leveling a Class C?

By the way straight down (vertical) weight carrying capability is different than toughness against breakage on uneven ground (rocks) that those levelers may have to rest on. The two characteristics don't always go hand in hand.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I plan on using Anderson levelers rated at 30 tons.



camper leveler

Three are needed for a class C and will work from 1/2 inch to 4 inches. They also work as chocks.

X2

I bought a horse stall mat and cut it up into pieces. Stack to get the height needed.

Works awesome.

Jose

WyoTraveler wrote:
If you have a very light RV they work. Otherwise the answer is NO. They push into the ground or break on a hard surface. If you have a diesel they will sound like a shotgun going off and explode into small pieces

We had our lynx blocks sink on us this summer. After a few days into a 6 week stay, the motorhome was no longer level. Upon releveling, I found the blocks had started sinking. At the end of the trip, the bottom blocks under the front wheels had completely sunk into the ground.

-Michael

I have 24' Lazy Daze. It has less outside access storage than the typical class C due to low profile and shorter size. I carry both the yellow and orange leveling blocks with it. The yellow ones I brought over from my 2005 trailer and that package is a couple short due to breakage. No problems with breakage with the orange blocks with 2+ years of vacations.

Use blocks under both rear tires on side which needs leveling. I shoot for decently level, not perfectly level. If possible scout campsites and pick a level one all things being equal. Frequently I can move around in the campsite and use the most level area to setup. So far (almost 10 years) these blocks have been fine for the use I give it. Perhaps at some point they won't be.

I think you'll enjoy the LD.

For the 12 years that we have been RVing, I have carried and used 5 ea. 2"x12"x16" lengths of board and 5 ea 12" lengths of 4"x4".

Front to back leveling is by driving up the stack-up shown below, side to side leveling is achieved by driving up one farther than the other.

We've never been in a place that I couldn't get level.

We use no fancy tools to verify level. We just swing the freezer and microwave doors. They point to where it is low.

Tim

Personally, I like the tri-levelers.

We can use just the two of them instead of building up the block pyramids--when the front is low, or we can match the tri with a set of yellows to get the dually's leveled. We just find them easier to work with, but we also have a partial set of yellow blocks after wrecking 2 or 3 on asphalt.

Thanks to all who replied. Need to get more gear before the LD is finished, but have to get thru this winter. Just about 6" snow today and more for tomorrow. Gives me lots of time to search for my needed equipment. Thanks John in Oregon GO DUCKS!!!!

We Cant Wait wrote:
Went to Home Depot and bought a couple of 2x10x12' and cut the following lengths out of each one, 2-1', 2-2', and 2-3', set the saw to cut at a 45 degree to create a ramp effect on each one, and then can stack them as needed to get a total of 6" rise to help level the MH.

That's almost what I did.

Except I screwed three different length pieces together of 2X8's to make a stair-step ramp block that I can drive up onto for three different lift heights - 1 1/2 inches up, 3 inches up, and 4 1/2 inches up. I made five of these so I can have four blocks under both rear dual tire sets and one under one front tire for the worst-case situation of needing a 3-point leveling arrangement requiring a complete lift in the rear and a lift in one front.

For sure, those plastic lift blocks would not hold-up in situations/places like this: