Changing coolant in V-10
I have a 2004 Jayco MH with the Ford V-10 engine. Since I bought it used from a dealer 2 years ago I have no service records. Although there is less than 20K miles on the engine it is still a 10 ye...
Forum Discussion
Dennis,
Congratulations on being on the way to being an owner of a reliable vintage coach. Maintenance is The Key. Get a little spiral bound notebook and start a maintenance log. Your barind will not be able to store all this.
The List:
- Coolant goes bad not by failing to cool or allowing itself to freeze, but the corrosion inhibitors get used up. So if you replace the only part of the coolant with the same as original, it will be good again for 5 to 7 years. This is very important in a multi metal engine.(First because you asked.)
- Brake fluid absorbs water. This can lower its boiling point and start corrosion in the system. If the system is flushed with new fluid every 5 to 7 years, that will pretty stop any problems. Want it to last even longer? While in the process, wrap each bleed screw with plumbers teflon tape and make sure that the rubber caps get back on the bleed screws. This will keep the bleed screws from corroding and they will work for you again in 5 years.
- Belts work for about 10 years. If yours are older than that, at least carry spares. That little parts store in BFE will not have the correct number and serpentine belts have to be exact.
- When you are changing out the coolant the next time, inspect the hoses carefully. Coolant hoses seem to go for about 15 years.
- At the next big anniversary, closely inspect all the rubber that matters. By now the rig is twenty-five (and in most states you get get a hysteric (intensional spelling) plate and save a lot of money on annual registration. Maybe you can celebrate by replacing any rubber brake line that are looking tired.
- Speaking of tires....
You have heard that tires:
A - Have a manufactured date code. (write those in that notebook)
B - Are getting old at five and iffy at seven and dangerous at ten. If you have a conventional coach. At least keep the steer wheels in date. But the inside dual is always an issue because they get run low so often.
The real good answer with tires is to try to wear them out. This is better for the coach - too.
As to engine oil, it collects combustion by-products that (again) can cause corrosion and deplete the anti-wear additives. Synthetics stand up to heavy duty wear better, but are a limited value otherwise. They still have be changed out annually because of the contamination. Synthetic AFT is much the same, but does not have to deal with the contamination. It is real expensive and if you keep an eye on what you have and get it changed (with the filter) if it ever gets dark, you will be OK. This may change when it becomes vintage.
Gear oil and greases don't really age out. If it still has any grease fittings, change to Valvoline Synpro (8$/tube) and try to over grease it. Even as pricey as it is, it is still less expensive than changing parts.
Two special notes:
1 - Use nickel based anti seize on the sparkplugs. Many have lost the threads in a head.
2 - You were concerned about doing the coolant change on your own. If you can find a service manual for that chassis, buy it. Even if you do find one, try to engage the services of a native guide early on. Later on you will be afraid to let any ham-fisted kid touch your treasure.
Who is this guy and what is he babbling about???
He is a ship's engineer that came to work in Detroit and did lots of testing. He also has lots of old stuff that was not old when he got it. The coach in the sigpix is over 40 this year and we have plans to run it more than 12k this year. We are already at 6k for the year and loving the old girl.
I wish you many peaceful (boring) hours of driving and many wonderful memories.
Matt
Congratulations on being on the way to being an owner of a reliable vintage coach. Maintenance is The Key. Get a little spiral bound notebook and start a maintenance log. Your barind will not be able to store all this.
The List:
- Coolant goes bad not by failing to cool or allowing itself to freeze, but the corrosion inhibitors get used up. So if you replace the only part of the coolant with the same as original, it will be good again for 5 to 7 years. This is very important in a multi metal engine.(First because you asked.)
- Brake fluid absorbs water. This can lower its boiling point and start corrosion in the system. If the system is flushed with new fluid every 5 to 7 years, that will pretty stop any problems. Want it to last even longer? While in the process, wrap each bleed screw with plumbers teflon tape and make sure that the rubber caps get back on the bleed screws. This will keep the bleed screws from corroding and they will work for you again in 5 years.
- Belts work for about 10 years. If yours are older than that, at least carry spares. That little parts store in BFE will not have the correct number and serpentine belts have to be exact.
- When you are changing out the coolant the next time, inspect the hoses carefully. Coolant hoses seem to go for about 15 years.
- At the next big anniversary, closely inspect all the rubber that matters. By now the rig is twenty-five (and in most states you get get a hysteric (intensional spelling) plate and save a lot of money on annual registration. Maybe you can celebrate by replacing any rubber brake line that are looking tired.
- Speaking of tires....
You have heard that tires:
A - Have a manufactured date code. (write those in that notebook)
B - Are getting old at five and iffy at seven and dangerous at ten. If you have a conventional coach. At least keep the steer wheels in date. But the inside dual is always an issue because they get run low so often.
The real good answer with tires is to try to wear them out. This is better for the coach - too.
As to engine oil, it collects combustion by-products that (again) can cause corrosion and deplete the anti-wear additives. Synthetics stand up to heavy duty wear better, but are a limited value otherwise. They still have be changed out annually because of the contamination. Synthetic AFT is much the same, but does not have to deal with the contamination. It is real expensive and if you keep an eye on what you have and get it changed (with the filter) if it ever gets dark, you will be OK. This may change when it becomes vintage.
Gear oil and greases don't really age out. If it still has any grease fittings, change to Valvoline Synpro (8$/tube) and try to over grease it. Even as pricey as it is, it is still less expensive than changing parts.
Two special notes:
1 - Use nickel based anti seize on the sparkplugs. Many have lost the threads in a head.
2 - You were concerned about doing the coolant change on your own. If you can find a service manual for that chassis, buy it. Even if you do find one, try to engage the services of a native guide early on. Later on you will be afraid to let any ham-fisted kid touch your treasure.
Who is this guy and what is he babbling about???
He is a ship's engineer that came to work in Detroit and did lots of testing. He also has lots of old stuff that was not old when he got it. The coach in the sigpix is over 40 this year and we have plans to run it more than 12k this year. We are already at 6k for the year and loving the old girl.
I wish you many peaceful (boring) hours of driving and many wonderful memories.
Matt
