Electric issue

Hmmm. Curiouser and curiouser. Rapid clicking noise could indicate low battery voltage. Climate control closes a relay (click) but the battery supplying it is too low or corrosion of wiring terminal(s) is causing a high resistance (unclick), which decreases the load so the voltage goes back up (click) - back and forth.

And you have problems with not getting AC shore power. Which means no AC power to keep the batteries charged up so they slowly fade away. Except you told us you plugged the converter into shore power separately. GAH!

Yeah, hire a mobile tech...

Yes, I have a Dometic Fridge. Thanks for your input! When the Gen is running there is power to the Fridge. I suspect Mr. Wizard is correct about the electric heating element. Checked the fuses on the Dinosaur board and they are good. I can live with the fridge running on gas, just wish I could figure out why I have no shore power, why the heater comes on all by itself, and why the the Electronic Climate Control Energy Management Unit Master Controller sings to me (rapid clicking noise).

THe fridge on my RV is a Dometic. do not know if yours is the same.

120 volt operation starts with an outlet in the OUTSIDE Fridge compartment. Check for POWER at that outlet.. Eithe ACE or True Value sells a nice little plug in pass through "path light" indicator light. I can not find it online but I have 3 of 'em in the RV. not quite clear plastic/rubberish block with 3 pin plug and outlet and NEON light in the nmiddle.. Plug one of these in between the Fridge Plug and the outlet. NO LIGHT problem found.

Next the power goes to a board on the bottom of the outside compartment, all exposed terminals and glass cartridge fuses..

THEN it goes to the control board and relays

Well, an update on the Bounder...no AC power at all when plugged into shore power. I think this one is over my head...going to call a repair man tomorrow. I did plug my converter into an ac outlet to my house directly to keep the batteries charged.

I will also check the gfci plugs and fuse for refrigerator. Was planning a trip last week in September to Illinois. Guess Bosleepus doesn't want to go!

Thanks for the tips! My transfer switch is above my refrigerator and behind the breaker box/fuse panel. Really dreading digging into that.

Mr. Wizard is probably right about it being two different problems. As far as the refer goes, along wih his excellent advice, you should also check any GFI's you might have. My old '94 Bounder was wired so if the bathroom GFI tripped, it would also knock out the refers AC and it would drop back to propane. So check that. But first refer check would be for AC at the refers AC outlet as previously suggested.

My transfer switch was in an overhead cabinet, behind the circuit breaker and 12 volt fuse panels. Over the dinette. A real bear to work on. I did find a factory defect up in there...they used wire nuts that were too small, and eventually road vibration popped them off of pairs of hot and neutral wires and they than shorted to the metal case surrounding the transfer switch. Arcs, sparks, and smoke. Than lights out. Lucky I was up, saw and heard it all.

Most likely two different problems
If the fridge won't run generator power, but everything else works A/C outlets mw
Then the electric heating element might be burned out
Check the outlet behind the fridge, see if it has power
There is also a fuse on the fridge control board for the 120v
Sometimes it goes out, but often it is because of a shorted heating element

I wouldn't replace the switch until I did a little further investigating. Maybe it's not switching but it could just be the contacts need cleaning. You could replace it and find you still have the same problem. Also check the 30 amp breaker for your plug-in at home. It could be a thrown breaker from somebody unplugging without first turning the breaker off. That happens sometimes.

It's a 30 amp hook up at my house. Had a family gathering and no issues for other RVs using it. I am guessing I need to replace the 30 amp transfer switch.