Electric Tank Blankets

there a lots of camps with freeze proof water faucets on sites. Common methods are heat tape with insulation, in a heated box at ground level, deep bury depth hydrants,( our method) with heat tape & insulation.
Some states regulate that bacteriological water quality samples must be able to be taken at taps that could be used for potable water. Taps with a remote valve, such as your example and our hydrants are difficult to sanitize to obtain a clean sample, so are rare.

I do wonder....what camp grounds offer water at the campsite in the winter time? I always thought they shut off the water and blow out the lines during the cold time of year. Don't they offer water only at the heated office with a sillcock?

This is a sillcock.

I recommend using either the 12V heating pads or the combination 12V/120V heating pads ... instead of the 120V only heating pads. This will provide the flexibility to protect your tanks in even the rare situations where you might be dry camping in cold weather.

I see nothing on the UltraHeat website saying that their 12 volt DC heating pads were less effective than their 120 volt AC heating pads when running off 12 volts DC. Probably their heating pads are designed such that their amperage draw is higher in the 12 volt DC mode so as to supply the same heating BTU energy as when their heating pads are powered from 120 volts AC.

We have 12 volt UltraHeat pads on our tanks since our RV always has 12 volts DC available, whether drycamping or on hookups.

Thanks to all who have helped by responding to this question

If we decide to have tank blankets fitted - is this something we could do ourselves, or would we need to get professionals to do this (like Camping World for instance)

If any of you have had this done - what have your experiences been?

Chris

At 20 F I'd be choosing an RV that had enclosed, heated tanks and valves. The heated fresh water hose may not work as well as you hope. I operate on my fresh water tank, and fill as needed.

Also at 20 f the fridge needs to be protected from the working fluid gelling. See the thread under the full time forum called Winter.....

chrisandoctavia wrote:
We plan to live full time in the RV - but would just like to be OK in locations where the temperature dropped to say around 20 overnight

We would separately buy a heated water inlet hose

I'd be using those tank blankets in combination with heater tape on all pipes. Pipes are where stuff freezes first, so having electrical heating tape plus insulation will go a long way.

chrisandoctavia wrote:
We plan to live full time in the RV - but would just like to be OK in locations where the temperature dropped to say around 20 overnight

We would separately buy a heated water inlet hose

That is fine for a couple nights. Keep your fresh tank 80% filled.

For extended cold weather use, I recommend getting the direct tank heaters.

Also compare www.ultraheat.com

If your waste tanks freeze they are probably fine but how will you dump them?

We set up aTT for extreme cold using old waterbed heaters on the underside of each tank and 5 watt/' cut to length heat cable on waterlines. They were thermostatic to set from 50-95 degrees F. Wintered over in Whitecourt Ab. at temps as low as -43f without freezing.
Cheap too!
They are 120v ac, so when traveling we ran them off the inverter when the truck was running, the genny or park power when parked. Forget 12v dc. You wouldnt get enough heat to do any good.
Wrap your dump valves, pump & outdoor shower, any suspect waterline while you are at it.

Hi Chris,

I am no expert on tank heaters, but our rig came with them so I know something about them. The kind we have seem to be like the ones you pointed out from Camping World. They are heating pads that adhere to the underside of the gray and black tanks, I assume a peel-&-stick application. Under our rig, I can feel the heater patch, one on the bottom of each of our two waste tanks, covered by a full coverage thin silver insulation blanket. Our tank heaters operate on 12 volts with the power to them controlled by a manual switch located inside the motor home. Our switch happens to be located in our bathroom.

The fresh water tank, the hot water tank, all fresh hot and cold water plumbing, and even the waste plumbing to a point is supposed to be inside the motor home, protected from freezing temperatures. There are always exceptions. One example will be the outside shower. Of coarse this assumes you keep your interior at a reasonably comfortable temperature. If not, then winterizing the rig is a "Must".

Because of the toxic nature of the waste tanks, it is a wonderful thing they are mounted outside. Also consider the waste is gravity fed and it is also a great utilization of under-belly space. Unfortunately the waste tanks and their valves are most vulnerable to freezing which is why tank heaters and heating tape on exterior valves and associated plumbing becomes necessary for freezing weather use. But for freezing temp storage, the best process to follow is standard winterizing.

If camping with hook-ups in freezing temps, I think you are spot-on considering a heated fresh water inlet hose.

We plan to live full time in the RV - but would just like to be OK in locations where the temperature dropped to say around 20 overnight

We would separately buy a heated water inlet hose